Derek Rose at Pitti Uomo 83

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Apr 8, 2013.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    If character is what one does when no one is looking, perhaps style is what one wears while in the act of defining character. Perhaps even more than the extinction of costumes like white tie, the gradual transformation of the dressing gown from a necessity to a novelty item represents the devolution of luxurious living.

    Witness anyone who's anything in films and TV of old, from sleuths like Hercule Poirot to simpletons like Bertie Wooster. When preparing for bed or before dressing in the morning, you'll find them in beautiful extravagant silk robes, usually with quilted cuffs and collar.

    Now that we live in heated spaces, such comforts are superfluous. Today you're likely instead to find a leading man reading the paper and spilling coffee and cereal all over himself wearing the boxers and t-shirt he slept in the previous night and wore the previous day.

    Derek Rose (that's Derek, not Derrick, the rehabbing Chicago Bulls point guard) still offers made in England robes for those aspiring to emulate the elan of yesteryear, as they have done for decades. Classic patterns stay in the collection permanently, joined every season by temporary new patterns. All patterns are, as they should be, busy and decorative, one of the gentleman's only opportunities to throw caution to the wind and indulge in colors and flourishes that he can enjoy in the comfort of his own presence without worry to offending the delicate sensibilities of his most Victorian companions.

    These robes are generally thinner, of printed silk, and less constructed than what you'll see in the old movies. I imagine at least in part because the old thick silks with quilted collars, cuffs, and back would be too hot in the heated homes of today. Perhaps also because the one true old-style embroidered silk robe I've seen in person was a Charvet robe at BG in NYC, which had a price tag of around $6k.

    Derek Rose now also courts those seeking a modern solution, yet one more elegant than the typical fraternity house fare. All this comes under the heading of “lounge wear”. It is the modern gentleman's answer to Lululemon yoga pants. It fulfills its assignment quite well. It's almost entirely cotton – 95% - with the remainder left to create stretchiness. That 5% really goes a long way in creating the softness, stretchiness and bounciness of something that you'd like to wear around the house while watching a movie or reading before bed. I also find the design of the pockets kind of “cute” in a good way. Loose, flowy pants that you're wearing around the house can easily look just sloppy. The concise back pocket and athletic-looking front pockets avoid this.

    They make a cashmere outfit that reminds me of a cashmere hoodie I used to love wearing around my apartment until it finally was consumed by moth holes and wear. While it was alive, it was truly a pleasure. I do wonder how well these pants could hold up, by I was assured by the Derek Rose representative that the stuff lasts.

    Underwear is another new offering. Many of the silk boxers are made of the same patterns as the robes. I have never worn silk boxers and can't say that it sounds particularly pleasurable. I will stick to good old cotton, of which they also have plenty, knit and woven.

    Many an iGent waxes philosophical on his dress as a sign of respect for others, and for the occasion. But respect for others begins with respect for yourself. Show yourself some respect, and get yourself something worth wearing in your own company.

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  2. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Best pj's ever. Love there robes all the way.

    Great read and pics aswell. Thanks.
     


  3. Quarks

    Quarks Senior member

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    Derek Rose's robes are lovely, especially the silk ones, from the ones I have seen. I have been tempted many times to try one out but never quite made it.
    I have however, went with the cheaper option of owning one of their cotton robes.
    I am very surprised by the cut of the robes. Very nice tailored around the shoulders sleeves (pleasantly surprised). Great overall length, true to size and the comfort is absolutely divine.
    I can only imagine how the silk ones feels like.
    I am intrigued by the wool ones and may pull the trigger.

    The only silk one that I own is by Tom Ford. Luxurious is an understatement. Quite heavy but nevertheless, elegant.
    I have come across an exquisite cashmere lined silk Stefano Ricci robe at BG in NY. The sheer beauty of it stopped me in my tracks.
    The sheen from the silk and beautifully tailored shawl collar alone deserves its place in a museum.
    The four digit price tag may well be on par with its quality and beauty. Too bad pockets ain't deep enough.

    Great article.
     


  4. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    I've two pyjamas from DR's cheaper series. The fabric is coarse, the very opposite of suppleness. I previously owned a silken gown as well, but sold it on as pattern-matching was poor and stitches loose and large. Derek Rose has so far been a great disappointment.
     


  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Is it advisable to wear those silk dressing gowns if one is still a renter? :confused:
     


  6. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

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    I often wonder how many guys wear their house shoes in 500 square foot apartments.
     


  7. Master Squirrel

    Master Squirrel Senior member

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    Ahh, but of course.
     


  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    D-Rose a Pitti attendee? Who knew?


     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013


  9. Dorothea Brooke

    Dorothea Brooke Member

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    This is simply beautiful writing. What a delight! Thank you, Bel Ragazzo.
     


  10. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Robes look great although I can't see where I would ever wear one. The housepants and hoodies just look sloppy and nothing distinctive or stylish at all, though. And even your nicely-written piece isn't going to convince me to start wearing housepants.
     


  11. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    I like Derek Rose jim-jams, mainly because they're a (slightly) trimmer cut than typical RTW pyjamas. Plus the buttons are kind of pretty, and it's surprisingly useful to have the extra pockets. I'm not convinced by cashmere loungewear/"house pants" and the like; I've never found the cheaper - and machine-washable - varieties to be lacking in comfort/softness, so prefer those instead.

    The robes look good; I definitely agree that you need a funky pattern on this kind of item. One day I'll succumb to temptation and buy a silk robe. But I greatly prefer the old-fashioned thicker slik ones to the modern flimsy unstructured ones. I occasionally troll eBay looking for interesting old ones, but it's very rare to find a combination of my size, good condition, a decent colour/pattern, and a pricetag I can accept. So I suspect I'll never get round to actually buying a vintage one.

    On the topic of who actually wears robes these days: well, I do! Not a silk one, but a thicker/fluffier one, and I wear it around the house most days. It's very practical as I regularly need to pop out for work (and have to look presentable when doing so) but only for relatively short periods during the day. A robe saves me from having to change back & forth from one outfit to another, while providing practical protection around the house so I don't need to worry about food splashing if I'm cooking or whatever. I take my jacket & tie off, throw the robe on and am fine around the house until the evening, while still being able to get ready again quicky if I have to go out. And I prefer turning the heating down during the day, so a robe adds another layer of warmth then too.
     


  12. woodywoodford

    woodywoodford Well-Known Member

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    House...shoes? What are these house shoes?

    Silk robe is definitely out of my budget, but I have fallen in love with a nice heavy cotton bathrobe. Nothing special, but there's a certain liberating feeling of having coffee and a cigarette in your bathrobe on a sunny Saturday morning. Will probably grab a silk one for the summer here pretty quick.
     


  13. ddonicht

    ddonicht Senior member

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    I have a wool Derek Rose robe and love it.
     


  14. sharks9022

    sharks9022 Senior member

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    Clicked for Derrick, got Derek instead, am a little sad inside.
     


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