DENIME - Official Thread

[Jay-D]

We are proud to introduce a new label to Blue Owl Workshop - DENIME. Denime is a pioneer in reproduction Japanese denim making. Denime remakes now hard-to-find hidden masterpieces from the 50s to 70s America, with the concept of faithfully conveying the atmosphere of the old time, insisting on superior denim making at the levels of the fabric, fade, sewing, accessories, and wear. While faithfully remaking the old items, Denime incorporates modern trend.

The brand name "Denime" (pronounced du-nee-m) derives from a sturdy fabric called "Serge de Nimes" in the 15th century Nice, France. The word "denim" itself is believed to derive from this "Serge de Nimes." Denime initially created its classic Denime XX type in 1988 through dismantling the 1950s deadstock denim at the thread level to scrutinize the place of where the cotton is originally made, thread number, color, dye, and woven yarn count. Denime XX type was initially made only 144 pieces. Denime took about six months from the creation of the prototype to begin the production of XX type, after confirming the successful fading. Denime denim shows its true strength after about six months of wear.

Our first shipment just left Japan and we will have soon! More information can be seen in our latest blogpost at http://blueowlworkshop.blogspot.com/...ioneer-of.html

 

[mikecch]

I'm very interested in finding out how these new Denime's (now owned by WEGA) compares to the old Denimes from the Shins Co. & Orizzonti eras! If anyone has copped a pair of the new ones, let us know how they compare to the older ones

I've seen some earlier Denime's from the early 90's, late 80's (under the management of Orizonnti), and the stuff is pretty incredible. The Shins Co. era stuff were pretty spot on too, and I guess most Denime owners are walking around in these ones now.

 

[jaydc7]

I like how a couple of pairs over in the SUFU contest are turning out (is that Shins Co.?), what cuts are you getting?

 

[mikecch]

Yep, all Shins Co.

The only Orizzonti Denime jeans for retail are at Pants Shop!

 

[Jay-D]

I was working with Shins Co about 2 years ago and was in continuous talks to try to bring DENIME to the USA, but sometimes it takes a long time with Japanese companies to put everything together. We almost had everything together then everything, but then we suddenly had to put everything on hold. As for the company changes, I will confirm some specific details and let everyone know when I have more information, but I am not expecting much changes in their denim. The craftsmanship is still the same and the core fits are the same.

Our shipment arrives probably Thursday and I will have more detailed information by then. In terms of what we will stock, our first shipment is just a start and we will expand the selection. I will begin with only raw denim, we will add some washes and other pieces from the collection in the near future. I will have a type 3 jacket model 50-10-032 in a one wash version (rigid will be available upon request), 1966 model 50-10-0075 in rigid, and the 47XX model 50-10-0055 in rigid. Pricing looks great but I will not have it completely figured out until after it arrives. I am expecting the jacket about $300 and the denim to be about $285 and $235 give or take a few dollars.

 

[jaydc7]

Is the 1966 model the same as the 66xx that is sold at Blue in Green?

 

[mikecch]

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing some pics

 

[Jay-D]

Originally Posted by jaydc7

Is the 1966 model the same as the 66xx that is sold at Blue in Green?

Similar cut, different fabric. 66xx is currently not available, but I will get it when/if it is produced again.

 

[Jay-D]

DENIME "New XX" Japanese raw selvedge denim - $285
http://blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bri...il&SKU=7999600
DENIME "New XX" is a revised version of the original DENIME "XX," which is inspired by vintage denim produced in 1947 USA. "New XX" is a more modern interpretation of this classic 1947 fit. "New XX" is slim through the thigh, hips, and waist line with a lower rise, yet keeps intact the 1947 original straight leg cut and all of the vintage details. In other words, DENIME "XX" is a more true reproduction of the original 1947 cut, and "New XX" is slimmer.
- Shrink-to-fit 13oz Japanese raw selvedge
- DENIME signature gold color selvedge and gold color stitching
- Custom engraved chrome buttons and copper rivets with DENIME logos
- Pure indigo
- Hidden back pocket rivets
- Chainstitched hems and waist band
- 100% cotton
- Leather patch
- Made in Japan

DENIME "New 66" Japanese raw selvedge denim - $235
http://blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bri...il&SKU=7999601
DENIME "New 66" is a revised version of the original DENIME "66," which is inspired by vintage denim produced in 1966 USA. Just like the relationship between DENIME "New XX" and "XX" described above, "New 66" is a more modern interpretation of the classic 1966 fit - it is slim through the thigh, hips, and waist line with a lower rise, yet keeps intact the original 1966 straight leg cut and all of the vintage details. DENIME "66" is a more true reproduction of the original 1966 cut, and the "New 66" is slimmer as described. "New 66" uses the same fabric and many of the same details used on "New XX."
- Shrink-to-fit 13oz Japanese raw selvedge
- DENIME signature gold color selvedge and gold color stitching
- Custom engraved chrome buttons and copper rivets with DENIME logos
- Pure indigo
- Chainstitched hems and waist band
- 100% cotton
- Paper patch
- Made in Japan

More information can be seen in our latest blogpost at http://blueowlworkshop.blogspot.com/...denim-new.html

 

[dawei94]

anyone already got a pair of these care to describe it?
sizing?
shrinkage?
amount of leg twist?

 

[Jay-D]

Introducing the DENIME type 3 raw denim jacket

DENIME Type 3 Japanese Raw Denim Jacket - $298
http://blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bri...il&SKU=7999602
- Modern cut with high arm holes and slim throughout the body
- 2 chest pockets with button closure, single button cuff, 2 adjustable straps on bottom with buttons too tighten along waist line
- One wash 11oz Japanese raw
- Custom engraved chrome buttons and copper rivets with DENIME logos
- Pure indigo
- 100% cotton
- Paper patch
- Made in Japan

More information can be seen in our latest blogpost at http://blueowlworkshop.blogspot.com/...im-jacket.html[/quote]

 

[aj_del]

Jay, can you confirm that the measurements of Denime new 66 for size 32 are correct on your website. Its given as Size 32 (36" waist, 11" rise, 12" thigh, 9.25" knee, 36" inseam, 9" leg opening) Is one supposed to size down on these ? Will 36" waist wont shrink to 32" ? The measurements are quite different from the ones given at BiG for 66 which are also raw. I understand that the denim is different but is the difference like 3" in the waist ? I am looking for a pair which after shrinking and stretching ends up at 33.5" ? What size should I buy ? BiG size chart from here

 

[mikecch]

Can any one who owns both the old and new Denime jeans comment on any differences in the construction and materials???

 

[Jay-D]

Originally Posted by mikecch

Can any one who owns both the old and new Denime jeans comment on any differences in the construction and materials???

I am still waiting on confirmation from Denime about any major changes. This is kind of "top secret" information so it really isn't easy to get direct answers. From what I can tell, there are virtually no changes. A couple of the fits have changed, but fabric, construction, details look top notch, same as before. I may be concerned (extra critical that is) about major changes to non-denim pieces in the future as these pieces probably are subbed out to any number of factories, but denim will always be done right by the same artisans that have been behind the label for years!

 

[Jay-D]

Originally Posted by aj_del

Jay, can you confirm that the measurements of Denime new 66 for size 32 are correct on your website.

Its given as

Size 32 (36" waist, 11" rise, 12" thigh, 9.25" knee, 36" inseam, 9" leg opening)

Is one supposed to size down on these ? Will 36" waist wont shrink to 32" ? The measurements are quite different from the ones given at BiG for 66 which are also raw. I understand that the denim is different but is the difference like 3" in the waist ?

I am looking for a pair which after shrinking and stretching ends up at 33.5" ? What size should I buy ?

BiG size chart from here

Ignore the BIG chart completely. These are different models and Denime is under different ownership, so I would not trust older measurements to be on the safe side. Trust our measurements. Our measurements are taken directly from the product and we usually have multiple pieces and can always confirm exact measurements when needed.

In terms of the Denime denim, it will shrink about 1-1.5 inches in the waistline and about 2-3 inches in length, 1/4-1/2" everywhere else. I am basing this off of a 1 hour cold soak and hang dry. You can probably get a bit more shrinkage from a hot soak or throwing them in a dryer.

We current stock two styles, the XX and the 66. The XX is slimmer in the top block compared to the 66. I would recommend getting your normal size or sizing down 1 in the XX. In the 66, sizing 1 or 2. This of course depends on how you like your denim to fit. The additional sizing down is for slimmest fit expecting to barely or not quite buttoning up the fly and stretching the top block for appropriate fit.

I would personally do 31 in the XX, but this has to be your call. I like my denim as slim as possible. The 31 will shrink down considerably, but I would expect to stretch out to the 33.5" after significant wear and forcing it a bit to get there. You can always do 32 for a looser fit/comfortable fit. In the 66, I would do size 30, 31 for comfortable fit.

We can always do an exchange as well if you choose a size and decide to go up or down 1. If you exchange, I ask you cover the shipping both ways and you cannot soak the denim! I have at least 2 pairs of every model currently in stock of all Denime denim.

Maybe my sizing will help you and others as well. I am 6' and 170 lbs. I like my denim tighter and usually size down 1 or 2 and I am a natural 32 in most denims. In the Denime XX, I would be a 32 but would choose to size down to 31. I can wear the 31 tightly dry and have about ½" on the waist, I cannot button up the size 30 dry and they are too tight in the hips. 31 would be tight as possible. I wear PBJ 31 (sized down 1), KMW 31 (sized down 1), APC 29 (sized down 3), Sugarcane 32 (normal sizing), Triple Works 31 (sized down 1), Naked & Famous 31 (sized down 1).

Hope that helps make a decision easier.

Best, Jay