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Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kaxixi, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    However, one day, we will find them having sex ontop of a bus stop, and ruin the moment.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Joke from before your time, young man.
     
  3. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    Joke from before your time, young man.

    Well mafoofan DOES have very prominent knee fades...

    Anyway, +1 on Rag & Bone. If the cut works for you the denim is really nice, and I like their lined waistband.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    See, this is the problem I always have. The jeans I like are never the right jeans for wearing with a sportcoat, and, to be honest, I am not even sure I like the look of jeans with a jacket. I just want to be able to have the option. Which model R&B would be best?

    Maybe I just haven't put enough thought into it. I don't do it very often, but it's useful when travelling. As long as the fit and details are straight and anonymous, I'm 80% there. I think super-slim would be a mistake--a sportcoat will look too bulky in relation.

    I don't mind some natural fading. I'm going more casual when I choose to pair jeans and sportcoat together in the first place.
     
  5. TIEALIGN

    TIEALIGN Senior member

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    Why is this a virtue?
    It isn't...its a very poor joke
     
  6. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The wild and the pure.

    1) The sportsjacket should be made of a rougher, more casual material. Moleskin, Tweed, wool flannel, cavalry twill, hopsack, even a knit (knit sportsjackets are popular right now) these are all good. (Me, I like to trawl through Yoox.) However, a worsted sportsjacket is going to look like an orphaned suit jacket, unless the cut is very aggressive/fashion forward, in which case you risk looking Eurotrashy, like that dude on Deuce Bigalow.


    I definitely agree with this. Most of what I have as far as sportcoats is pretty rough, so it may not be the problem. Nothing is worse than the Eurotrash look, IMO.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] See, this is the problem with these two forums. Everybody in MC gives me shit about my too short jackets, and now you...

    Anyway, I sent you a pm.
     
  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    mafoofan owns 45rpms which are some of the most expensive OTR jeans [​IMG] vox also has some flatheads

    I really like Flat Head, both their denim and other products.

    I think I might be more of a denimhead than most MC guys. I'm not sure this is helpful or not, but here are the jeans that I own and wear these days...I've markedly cut back on denim purchases, recently, for obvious reasons.

    5EP x SF (got two pairs because I like them so much)
    APC New Standards
    Edwin (straight raw selvedge...don't recall which one)
    Flat Head 3001
    KMW 1980 (raw made in Japan selvedge version)
    Nom de Guerre classic fit (non-selvedge in gray)
    Nudie Straight Sven (flame selvedge)
    Paul Smith Red Ear (raw selvedge version)
    Somet 003 Straight Fit Indigo
    Studio D'Artisan SD-103
    Sugar Cane x Self Edge SEXSC02

    There's a bit of variety in there, but they are mostly straight/slim and medium/low-ish rise.


    - B
     
  8. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fill me in. WTF is TTS?

    Really, I just want to be like Foo. . . . .

    [​IMG]
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I am going to be reading this thread in more detail, but for now, I'll just say that I have a pair of Diesel jeans that I've had for years. I love them but recognize the boot cut is pretty dated on them now. Worse, they're starting to wear through in the crotch. I know they're not great but they're comfortable as hell and still serviceable.

    So I went out and got a pair of 5ep LDBs. I paid a g**d***ed fortune for them. I wore them for a while and they were tight as hell in the crotch. They stretched out a good bit so they're no longer blatantly uncomfortable but the denim is still stiff and scratchy and they are not a pleasure to put on. I have been trying to break them in for months but I have zero of the cool fading that was so hyped. They do stack a bit at the knees but I am beginning to realize that stacking is retarded and will someday look as dated, if not more so, than the boot cut on the Diesels. They don't sit well on me and they are not flattering, though I was told they were one of the better jeans for a bigger guy like me. They look retarded at the crotch. Dated and everything, my Diesels just look better. The color is so dark they look odd with brown shoes, and I hate wearing black shoes, and I never wear sneakers. Making matters worse, I was tempted into buying them thru a special that was advertised on SF by the store (an SF affiliate who shall remain nameless) and that turned out to not apply to my 5eps, and I didn't even get the SF discount, which pissed me off mightily considering I drove an hour to get there. In short, I hate them, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw them on to try to continue breaking them in, once I put them on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take them right back off again.

    As a result of my experience, I am calling bulls*** on the whole denim scene, which not only made me spend $300+ on jeans that are neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self-conscious about the jeans I like.


    That does suck. Sorry that you weren't happy with your purchase. It seems that you got a pair that is not really good for you at all. Don't let that ruin it for you. It would be like getting turned off of suits because you got one that really doesn't fit your style. If I am in your area, or if you are close to Seattle sometime, I can try to help you find something that will change your mind. Diesels are typically fine jeans, though the denim and finishes are not typically of a caliber that would really impress someone who really likes jeans.
     
  10. Douglas

    Douglas Senior member

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    It isn't...its a very poor joke

    Oh, sorry. It's just that others have touted raw denim for the same reason, including the SA who sold me my 5eps.
     
  11. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    I really like Flat Head, both their denim and other products.

    I think I might be more of a denimhead than most MC guys. I'm not sure this is helpful or not, but here are the jeans that I own and wear these days...I've markedly cut back on denim purchases, recently, for obvious reasons.

    5EP x SF (got two pairs because I like them so much)
    APC New Standards
    Edwin (straight raw selvedge...don't recall which one)
    Flat Head 3001
    KMW 1980 (raw made in Japan selvedge version)
    Nom de Guerre classic fit (non-selvedge in gray)
    Nudie Straight Sven (flame selvedge)
    Paul Smith Red Ear (raw selvedge version)
    Somet 003 Straight Fit Indigo
    Studio D'Artisan SD-103
    Sugar Cane x Self Edge SEXSC02

    There's a bit of variety in there, but they are mostly straight/slim and medium/low-ish rise.


    - B


    Woah, nice rotation. You should post some pics up if any have a lot of fading.
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I definitely agree with this. Most of what I have as far as sportcoats is pretty rough, so it may not be the problem. Nothing is worse than the Eurotrash look, IMO.

    Anyway, I sent you a pm.


    Replied. I often wonder which worse - boring, sloppy American look, or Eurotrashy look. It's really a question of whether it is worse to die by ice or by fire.
     
  13. onion

    onion Senior member

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    I am going to be reading this thread in more detail, but for now, I'll just say that I have a pair of Diesel jeans that I've had for years. I love them but recognize the boot cut is pretty dated on them now. Worse, they're starting to wear through in the crotch. I know they're not great but they're comfortable as hell and still serviceable.

    So I went out and got a pair of 5ep LDBs. I paid a g**d***ed fortune for them. I wore them for a while and they were tight as hell in the crotch. They stretched out a good bit so they're no longer blatantly uncomfortable but the denim is still stiff and scratchy and they are not a pleasure to put on. I have been trying to break them in for months but I have zero of the cool fading that was so hyped. They do stack a bit at the knees but I am beginning to realize that stacking is retarded and will someday look as dated, if not more so, than the boot cut on the Diesels. They don't sit well on me and they are not flattering, though I was told they were one of the better jeans for a bigger guy like me. They look retarded at the crotch. Dated and everything, my Diesels just look better. The color is so dark they look odd with brown shoes, and I hate wearing black shoes, and I never wear sneakers. Making matters worse, I was tempted into buying them thru a special that was advertised on SF by the store (an SF affiliate who shall remain nameless) and that turned out to not apply to my 5eps, and I didn't even get the SF discount, which pissed me off mightily considering I drove an hour to get there. In short, I hate them, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw them on to try to continue breaking them in, once I put them on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take them right back off again.

    As a result of my experience, I am calling bulls*** on the whole denim scene, which not only made me spend $300+ on jeans that are neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self-conscious about the jeans I like.


    So I went out and got a Brioni suit. I paid a g**d***ed fortune for it. I was told they were one of the better suits for a guy like me. It looks retarded. Dated and everything, my H&M suit looks better. In short, I hate it, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw it on for an occassional meeting, once I put it on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take it right back off again.

    I'm calling bullshit on the whole suit scene, which not only made me spend $3,000+ on a suit that is neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self conscious about the suits I like.

    ....See how crazy that sounds?
     
  14. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have 15-year old 501s STF jeans. Can I keep those?
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Replied. I often wonder which worse - boring, sloppy American look, or Eurotrashy look. It's really a question of whether it is worse to die by ice or by fire.

    I don't wear tailored odd jackets with jeans ever...if I wear a jacket with them, it's something more casual like Wings+Horn, Nom de Guerre, Rag and Bone, early Rogan, or Engineered Garments.

    The one exception is with the Sugar Cane SEXSC02, which are very slim and have a super-long inseam. It's the only pair that I wear cuffed, and I like the way it looks with a navy blazer (bone buttons, not metal) and penny loafers...sort of Warhol-ish.

    But that's it.


    - B
     
  16. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I have 15-year old 501s STF jeans. Can I keep those?

    I see you more as a denim gaucho type.

    [​IMG]

    - B
     
  17. Douglas

    Douglas Senior member

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    So I went out and got a Brioni suit. I paid a g**d***ed fortune for it. I was told they were one of the better suits for a guy like me. It looks retarded. Dated and everything, my H&M suit looks better. In short, I hate it, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw it on for an occassional meeting, once I put it on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take it right back off again.

    I'm calling bullshit on the whole suit scene, which not only made me spend $3,000+ on a suit that is neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self conscious about the suits I like.

    ....See how crazy that sounds?


    I sort of see your point, and LA Guy made the same one, albeit less flippantly.

    But what the suit has going for it that raw denim does not is a sense of timelessness. I like suits and classic tailored menswear because if I do it right, my suits and shoes will still look great in 10 years. Yes, certain elements come and go - lapel widths may be narrow or wide, shoulders may be soft or padded - but if I stay relatively close to the middle or have my own sense of style about it, I'll still be able to wear them in 10 years. It's the difference so many point out between style and fashion.

    Denim trends and what is flogged in the Streetwear section seems to me to be pure fashion. It's "cooler" because it's not mainstream fashion, but it is fashion nonetheless. I'd be derided for my Diesels as others recently were for their Luckys, because of the bootcut, or the light color, or whatever. It just seems to me that things like stacking, extremely narrow cuts, and a super dark color are just arbitrary trends that are guaranteed to be out of date in 3-5 years.
     
  18. Douglas

    Douglas Senior member

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    Please post pics in both jeans so we can help.

    Thanks for the response. I will try to tonight.
     
  19. Douglas

    Douglas Senior member

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    So I went out and got a Brioni suit. I paid a g**d***ed fortune for it. I was told they were one of the better suits for a guy like me. It looks retarded. Dated and everything, my H&M suit looks better. In short, I hate it, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw it on for an occassional meeting, once I put it on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take it right back off again.

    I'm calling bullshit on the whole suit scene, which not only made me spend $3,000+ on a suit that is neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self conscious about the suits I like.

    ....See how crazy that sounds?


    Also, H&M is not derided at all in MC as I suspect my Diesels will be once I post them. [​IMG]
     
  20. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I don't wear tailored odd jackets with jeans ever...if I wear a jacket with them, it's something more casual like Wings+Horn, Nom de Guerre, Rag and Bone, early Rogan, or Engineered Garments.

    The one exception is with the Sugar Cane SEXSC02, which are very slim and have a super-long inseam. It's the only pair that I wear cuffed, and I like the way it looks with a navy blazer (bone buttons, not metal) and penny loafers...sort of Warhol-ish.

    But that's it.


    - B


    I don't wear odd jackets, period. I do wear Wings+Horns, Nom de Guerre, and Engineered Garments jackets with my jeans, but not sportsjackets per se. I can see why people do, and I like the Warhol thing, but it is not my thing.
     

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