Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Fritzi, go back two pages where (a) I wear the same Somets and (b) Baron and I discuss their cut.

- B

Note: PPâ„¢

no worries, i did. it's still in the eye of the beholder. you have to like them, not me.

 

[Liquidus]

Can someone recommend me some brands or stores in SF that I should check out for jeans? I'm looking for straight leg, dark wash, slim jeans that DON'T fade and are easy to wear and wash right away. Do I want raw jeans and are the popular brands mentioned in this thread all raw jean brands?

 

[BaaBaaBlackFleece]

For jeans in SF I hear that Self Edge is where its at. Plenty of info in SW&D.

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by Liquidus

Can someone recommend me some brands or stores in SF that I should check out for jeans? I'm looking for straight leg, dark wash, slim jeans that DON'T fade and are easy to wear and wash right away. Do I want raw jeans and are the popular brands mentioned in this thread all raw jean brands?

Self Edge is definitely the best denim store in San Francisco, by a long shot. They do specialize in heavyweight raw jeans, though, so if you are used to the lighter weight, lighter jeans usually available, they may be a shock to you. If you want a more "modern" feel, you may want some Acne's , which can be found at your neighbourhood Barney's. They are not nearly as good as the jeans at Self Edge, but they are easy to wear.

 

[Liquidus]

I'm sorry if I sound ignorant, but I think that I'm missing something that everybody in this thread seems to understand already. I've noticed that most of the pictures of jeans in this thread are straight leg, slim fit, dark wash jeans that don't have any fading. This is what I want. However, all the brands mentioned here seem to be "raw" denim, which if I am not mistaken, is designed to have contrast fading. I am not interested in fading of any kind, and don't want to worry about breaking them in or not washing them for 6 months. With all this, what kind of jeans should I look at?

 

[laphroaig]

Every fabric will eventually fade and degrade. It takes constant wear over a long period of time to get jeans to get contrast fade. If you start with any pair of raw jeans and wear them about the same ammount of times as another pair of trousers you own and dry clean and treat them the same, they will behave the same way and not fade.

 

[gnatty8]

Originally Posted by Liquidus

I'm sorry if I sound ignorant, but I think that I'm missing something that everybody in this thread seems to understand already. I've noticed that most of the pictures of jeans in this thread are straight leg, slim fit, dark wash jeans that don't have any fading. This is what I want. However, all the brands mentioned here seem to be "raw" denim, which if I am not mistaken, is designed to have contrast fading. I am not interested in fading of any kind, and don't want to worry about breaking them in or not washing them for 6 months. With all this, what kind of jeans should I look at?

Just buy something washed already, and in a dark wash like you prefer. If you want to start somewhere, Gap has decent denim in numerous fits and washes. Of course, they will fade over time, but you might be able to help limit fading by turning them inside out when you wash them, and only washing them when they are truly dirty.

 

[Liquidus]

I've tried Levi and Gap jeans, but I havn't found a pair in a fit and color that I like.

So just to be clear, if I like the wash and fit of APC New Standards, I can buy a pair, wash them in a machine right away, and just wear them like normal?

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by laphroaig

Every fabric will eventually fade and degrade. It takes constant wear over a long period of time to get jeans to get contrast fade. If you start with any pair of raw jeans and wear them about the same ammount of times as another pair of trousers you own and dry clean and treat them the same, they will behave the same way and not fade.
Actually, denim tends to fade more rapidly than other fabrics because indigo is a surface dye. I would say that the best thing to do is to get a pair of jeans that have tight weave (so that the weft (white threads) show hardly at all, and that are extremely color saturated. Spurr jeans (which are expensive, in the $250-350 range) are probably the best best for this. The "pipe leg" is also cut well. You may want the classic cut for a looser fit. Farinelli's carries these, and may have them on sale, but they can be found at Bloomingdalesin SF as well.

 

[laphroaig]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

Actually, denim tends to fade more rapidly than other fabrics because indigo is a surface dye. I would say that the best thing to do is to get a pair of jeans that have tight weave (so that the weft (white threads) show hardly at all, and that are extremely color saturated. Spurr jeans (which are expensive, in the $250-350 range) are probably the best best for this. The "pipe leg" is also cut well. You may want the classic cut for a looser fit. Farinelli's carries these, and may have them on sale, but they can be found at Bloomingdalesin SF as well.
I agree that most jeans won't have the indigo go all the way to the core of the warp threads but in practice, unless worn heavily like typical jeans, the fading will be generally very slow. I have have a pair of 5 year old jeans that have not faded. I even have a 3 year old pair that gets frequent wear with barely any indigo loss. But if he is really worried about fading, jeans that have both the warp and weft dyed or heavy cotton chinos cut like jeans but in a navy colour are another possibility. There are many examples of the latter.

 

[Tck13]

Originally Posted by Liquidus

I'm sorry if I sound ignorant, but I think that I'm missing something that everybody in this thread seems to understand already. I've noticed that most of the pictures of jeans in this thread are straight leg, slim fit, dark wash jeans that don't have any fading. This is what I want. However, all the brands mentioned here seem to be "raw" denim, which if I am not mistaken, is designed to have contrast fading. I am not interested in fading of any kind, and don't want to worry about breaking them in or not washing them for 6 months. With all this, what kind of jeans should I look at?

If you don't want your jeans to fade (and you don't care about raw / pre - washed) you can get a pair of jeans that are rinsed. These jeans have a rinse that locks in the color and won't fade as fast as a pair that aren't rinsed.

 

[Liquidus]

Can you give me some examples of rinsed jeans?

Repeating my question from earlier in hopes of getting a definitive answer:

If I like the wash and fit of APC New Standards, I can buy a pair, wash them in a machine right away, wear them like normal, and they will stay fairly dark?

 

[Tck13]

Originally Posted by Liquidus

Can you give me some examples of rinsed jeans?
If a jean has a rinse it usually says it in the description. Resin rinse Dark rinse

Originally Posted by Liquidus

Repeating my question from earlier in hopes of getting a definitive answer: If I like the wash and fit of APC New Standards, I can buy a pair, wash them in a machine right away, wear them like normal, and they will stay fairly dark?
They'll stay dark for a while and slowly fade over time just like any other pair of jeans.

 

[Mr.K]

You can wash your APC jeans and wear them right away. I did that with mine and they are in good shape. I am trying to avoid fading also. I have a pair of Gap rinse washed selvage on now and they are not bad. I washed them once since buying.

 

[voxsartoria]

[click pic for dino sizing]

Steed (Edwin DeBoise) bespoke jacket, 3 roll 2.5, in London Lounge 19oz gun club (for those of you who care, this is the model where there is no front cut)
Simonnot-Godard cotton square
BB Black Fleece OCBD
Crate for Farinelli's denim
The Flat Head cowhide belt
BBB Golden Fleece socks
Allen-Edmonds Taunton reverse calf chelseas
Cartier band in plain 18K
Archimede Pilot Original Limited Edition
Tom Ford sunglasses


- B