Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by TIEALIGN

I started off with a pair of samurai so500xx for my first pair of quality denim after checking out the different denim pics posted on SUFU and couldn't be happier. I recently picked up a pair of samurai s5000vx 21oz that I really like and should last a lifetime. The best part is they stand on their own...

Why is this a virtue?

 

[spertia]

Originally Posted by Teger

Rag & Bone 11s or 15s, although 15s have pretty large back pockets. I think Rag & Bone also made a trouser cut jean (on the 18 cut?), but it's pretty slim.

How many different basic models does R&B make? Can you give a quick rundown of what the numbers mean? The only "nice" jeans I have are APC NS, and now that they are starting to get pretty broken-in, I am on the lookout for a "dressy" jean that I could keep darker (and I noticed your prior comment about R&B being good dressy jeans). I could go for something a bit slimmer than the New Standards but definitely nothing less slim.

 

[dfagdfsh]

Originally Posted by spertia

How many different basic models does R&B make? Can you give a quick rundown of what the numbers mean? The only "nice" jeans I have are APC NS, and now that they are starting to get pretty broken-in, I am on the lookout for a "dressy" jean that I could keep darker (and I noticed your prior comment about R&B being good dressy jeans). I could go for something a bit slimmer than the New Standards but definitely nothing less slim.

They make a lot.. 4 or 5? I know of 11s, 15s, 18s, and I think they make 8s (although these might be a woman's jean).

Generally the higher the number the slimmer the cut, but there's exceptions.

15 - slim straight
11 - straight
18 - slim

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by iammatt

See, this is the problem I always have. The jeans I like are never the right jeans for wearing with a sportcoat, and, to be honest, I am not even sure I like the look of jeans with a jacket. I just want to be able to have the option. Which model R&B would be best?

I am very, very proletarian.

It is not so much pairing the right jeans with a sportscoat as it is having a sportscoat that pairs well with jeans. There are no set rules, but here are a two guidelines that not followed, and typically to ill effect:

1) The sportsjacket should be made of a rougher, more casual material. Moleskin, Tweed, wool flannel, cavalry twill, hopsack, even a knit (knit sportsjackets are popular right now) these are all good. (Me, I like to trawl through Yoox.) However, a worsted sportsjacket is going to look like an orphaned suit jacket, unless the cut is very aggressive/fashion forward, in which case you risk looking Eurotrashy, like that dude on Deuce Bigalow.

2) The jacket needs to be trim, and, and this is important, the skirt needs to be short. It doesn't need to be a Thom Browne. shrunken blazer, but it should not cover your entire backside either. It should definitely feel a little trimmer then your suit jackets.

Of course, there are guys that disregard both of these guidelines. However, it is the rare guy who can, and still look good. These guys make the rest of us discontented. However, one day, we will find them ********** ontop of a bus stop, and ruin the moment. Speaking of which, I will be in SF in a couple of weeks. We could find you some jeans and a sportsjacket to go with it (there should be a slew of sales in and around Union Square by then - I am staying in that area because my conference is around there.) PM me.

Re. Rag&Bone in particular, there are now so many cuts that a specific suggestion is hard to make. Phone Farinelli's - they should be able to help you there.

 

[cchen]

Originally Posted by Douglas

I am going to be reading this thread in more detail, but for now, I'll just say that I have a pair of Diesel jeans that I've had for years. I love them but recognize the boot cut is pretty dated on them now. Worse, they're starting to wear through in the crotch. I know they're not great but they're comfortable as hell and still serviceable.

So I went out and got a pair of 5ep LDBs. I paid a g**d***** fortune for them. I wore them for a while and they were tight as hell in the crotch. They stretched out a good bit so they're no longer blatantly uncomfortable but the denim is still stiff and scratchy and they are not a pleasure to put on. I have been trying to break them in for months but I have zero of the cool fading that was so hyped. They do stack a bit at the knees but I am beginning to realize that stacking is marsupialed and will someday look as dated, if not more so, than the boot cut on the Diesels. They don't sit well on me and they are not flattering, though I was told they were one of the better jeans for a bigger guy like me. They look marsupialed at the crotch. Dated and everything, my Diesels just look better. The color is so dark they look odd with brown shoes, and I hate wearing black shoes, and I never wear sneakers. Making matters worse, I was tempted into buying them thru a special that was advertised on SF by the store (an SF affiliate who shall remain nameless) and that turned out to not apply to my 5eps, and I didn't even get the SF discount, which pissed me off mightily considering I drove an hour to get there. In short, I hate them, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw them on to try to continue breaking them in, once I put them on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take them right back off again.

As a result of my experience, I am calling bulls*** on the whole denim scene, which not only made me spend $300+ on jeans that are neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self-conscious about the jeans I like.

Please post pics in both jeans so we can help.

 

[dfagdfsh]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

However, one day, we will find them ********** ontop of a bus stop, and ruin the moment.

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by Teger

Joke from before your time, young man.

 

[dfagdfsh]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

Joke from before your time, young man.

Well mafoofan DOES have very prominent knee fades...

Anyway, +1 on Rag & Bone. If the cut works for you the denim is really nice, and I like their lined waistband.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by iammatt

See, this is the problem I always have. The jeans I like are never the right jeans for wearing with a sportcoat, and, to be honest, I am not even sure I like the look of jeans with a jacket. I just want to be able to have the option. Which model R&B would be best?

Maybe I just haven't put enough thought into it. I don't do it very often, but it's useful when travelling. As long as the fit and details are straight and anonymous, I'm 80% there. I think super-slim would be a mistake--a sportcoat will look too bulky in relation.

I don't mind some natural fading. I'm going more casual when I choose to pair jeans and sportcoat together in the first place.

 

[TIEALIGN]

Originally Posted by Douglas

Why is this a virtue?
It isn't...its a very poor joke

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

1) The sportsjacket should be made of a rougher, more casual material. Moleskin, Tweed, wool flannel, cavalry twill, hopsack, even a knit (knit sportsjackets are popular right now) these are all good. (Me, I like to trawl through Yoox.) However, a worsted sportsjacket is going to look like an orphaned suit jacket, unless the cut is very aggressive/fashion forward, in which case you risk looking Eurotrashy, like that dude on Deuce Bigalow.

I definitely agree with this. Most of what I have as far as sportcoats is pretty rough, so it may not be the problem. Nothing is worse than the Eurotrash look, IMO.

2) The jacket needs to be trim, and, and this is important, the skirt needs to be short. It doesn't need to be a Thom Browne. shrunken blazer, but it should not cover your entire backside either. It should definitely feel a little trimmer then your suit jackets.

See, this is the problem with these two forums. Everybody in MC gives me **** about my too short jackets, and now you...

Anyway, I sent you a pm.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Teger

mafoofan owns 45rpms which are some of the most expensive OTR jeans

vox also has some flatheads

I really like Flat Head, both their denim and other products.

I think I might be more of a denimhead than most MC guys. I'm not sure this is helpful or not, but here are the jeans that I own and wear these days...I've markedly cut back on denim purchases, recently, for obvious reasons.

5EP x SF (got two pairs because I like them so much)
APC New Standards
Edwin (straight raw selvedge...don't recall which one)
Flat Head 3001
KMW 1980 (raw made in Japan selvedge version)
Nom de Guerre classic fit (non-selvedge in gray)
Nudie Straight Sven (flame selvedge)
Paul Smith Red Ear (raw selvedge version)
Somet 003 Straight Fit Indigo
Studio D'Artisan SD-103
Sugar Cane x Self Edge SEXSC02

There's a bit of variety in there, but they are mostly straight/slim and medium/low-ish rise.


- B

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Fill me in. WTF is TTS?

Really, I just want to be like Foo. . . . .

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by Douglas

I am going to be reading this thread in more detail, but for now, I'll just say that I have a pair of Diesel jeans that I've had for years. I love them but recognize the boot cut is pretty dated on them now. Worse, they're starting to wear through in the crotch. I know they're not great but they're comfortable as hell and still serviceable.

So I went out and got a pair of 5ep LDBs. I paid a g**d***** fortune for them. I wore them for a while and they were tight as hell in the crotch. They stretched out a good bit so they're no longer blatantly uncomfortable but the denim is still stiff and scratchy and they are not a pleasure to put on. I have been trying to break them in for months but I have zero of the cool fading that was so hyped. They do stack a bit at the knees but I am beginning to realize that stacking is marsupialed and will someday look as dated, if not more so, than the boot cut on the Diesels. They don't sit well on me and they are not flattering, though I was told they were one of the better jeans for a bigger guy like me. They look marsupialed at the crotch. Dated and everything, my Diesels just look better. The color is so dark they look odd with brown shoes, and I hate wearing black shoes, and I never wear sneakers. Making matters worse, I was tempted into buying them thru a special that was advertised on SF by the store (an SF affiliate who shall remain nameless) and that turned out to not apply to my 5eps, and I didn't even get the SF discount, which pissed me off mightily considering I drove an hour to get there. In short, I hate them, and though I am occasionally inspired to throw them on to try to continue breaking them in, once I put them on, I usually end up feeling so uncomfortable I take them right back off again.

As a result of my experience, I am calling bulls*** on the whole denim scene, which not only made me spend $300+ on jeans that are neither good-looking nor comfortable, but made me feel self-conscious about the jeans I like.

That does suck. Sorry that you weren't happy with your purchase. It seems that you got a pair that is not really good for you at all. Don't let that ruin it for you. It would be like getting turned off of suits because you got one that really doesn't fit your style. If I am in your area, or if you are close to Seattle sometime, I can try to help you find something that will change your mind. Diesels are typically fine jeans, though the denim and finishes are not typically of a caliber that would really impress someone who really likes jeans.

 

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by TIEALIGN

It isn't...its a very poor joke

Oh, sorry. It's just that others have touted raw denim for the same reason, including the SA who sold me my 5eps.