Definitive "Books on Menswear" Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Jul 28, 2012.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Dear all -

    As a part of my ongoing effort to provide as much information to newcomers with as little trouble as possible to knowledgeable SF members, I'm going to try and curate this thread to consolidate a list of well-known and -respected books on menswear. Post in the thread if you've got a suggestion. I will look into it, and if it doesn't look offensive, I will add it to the list. The list will be kept in this first post, so that you don't have to look through the thread to get to it. Due to this, feel free to discuss any book within the thread, as it won't impede those just looking for the list.

    A (*) by a listing means that I have read at least part (in most cases, all) of the indicated book. This is mostly just for me to keep track for myself but I'm also happy to answer any questions I can on the books I've read.

    Introductory Textbooks

    The Suit by Manton (*)
    Dressing the Man by Flusser (*)
    Style and the Man by Flusser (*)
    Clothes and the Man by Flusser (out of print?)
    Le Snob:Tailoring by Simon Crompton
    A Guy's Guide to Style by Roetzel
    Icons of Men's style - Josh Sims
    Elegant Man by Villarosa
    The Executive Look by Levitt (out of print?)
    ABCs of Men's Fashion by Amies (*)
    The Perfectly Dressed Gentleman by O'Byrne
    Dressed for Success by Molloy (out of print?)

    Intermediate Textbooks

    The Men's Fashion Reader, edited by McNeil and Karaminas
    A Well Dressed Gentleman's Pocket Guide by Lenius
    Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashion by Schoeffler and Gale (*)
    Men in Style by Hochswender and Gross
    Apparel Arts volumes (no Amazon links, and they're really hard to find and expensive from what I understand)
    Ivy Style by Mears et al (forthcoming)


    History of Menswear

    Scottish Estate Tweeds by Johnstons of Elgin
    One Hundred Years of Menswear by Blackman
    The Trench Book by Foulkes
    History of Mens' Accessories by Storey
    History of Men's Fashion by Storey (*)
    History of Men's Fashion by Chenoune (*)
    Men's Fashion Illustrations from the Turn of the Century by Mitchell
    Men's Coats by Buzzaccarni (out of print?)
    Shoes: The Complete Sourcebook by Peacock
    Men's Fashion The Complete Sourcebook by Peacock
    The Allure of Men by Baudot
    The Englishman's Suit by Amies (*)
    The Cut of his Coat by Shannon
    Sharp Suits by Musgrave
    Dandies by Laver
    Take Ivy by Hayashida
    The Inventors of Tradition by Lipscombe and McKenzie
    Savile Row Story: An Illustrated History by Richard Walker (*)
    Nothing but the Best by Thomas Girtin (*)
    Today There Are No Gentlemen by Nik Cohn (*)
    Sex and Suits by Anne Hollander
    Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century by Cunnington and Cunnington
    Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century, 1900-1950 by Mansfield and Cunnington
    Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History by Diana de Marly

    Profiles in Style: Elegant Gentlemen of Years Past

    Fred Astaire Style by Boyer
    Rebel Style by Boyer
    Gary Cooper by Bruce Boyer
    Cary Grant Style by Torregrossa
    Last of the Dandies by Foulkes (life of d'Orsay) (*)
    A Family Album by the Duke of Windsor
    Sotheby's auction catalog for the Duke of Windsor collections
    Churchhill Style by Singer

    Accessories

    Cuff Links by Jonas and Nissenson
    The Boutonniere by Brioni (essentially)
    Hatless Jack by Steinberg
    85 Ways to Tie a Tie by Fink and Mao
    The Book of Ties by Chaille
    The Book of Public School Old Boys, University, Navy, Army, Air Force, Club Ties by Laver (out of print?)

    Behind the Veil: The Making of Menswear

    Classic Tailoring Techniques by Cabrera
    Textbook on Footwear Manufacture by Thorton (out of print? pdf here)
    The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring by Croonborg
    Harris Tweed by Platman
    Handmade Shoes for Men ("The Vass Book") (*)

    Seminar in Bespoke Tailoring for Advanced Students

    Sicilian Tailors by Sleevehead
    Bespoke by Sherwood
    The London Cut by Sherwood

    Weekend Reading: Not quite comprehensive enough to be an intro textbook, not detailed or technical enough to be an intermediate textbook

    Eminently Suitable by Boyer (*)
    Elegance by Boyer (*)
    Mr. Classic by Hackett
    The Gentleman's Guide to Timeless Fashion by Roetzel (*)
    The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm by Ellen Moers (*)
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2013
  2. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    I find that Le Snob - The Suit is a very good little book. Well worth a read or for reference.
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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  4. Slippybee

    Slippybee Senior member

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    In addition to those already posted;

    Sharp suits - Eric Musgrave (as much for the excellent photography as anything else)


    Some pocket guides

    ABC of Men's fashion - Hardy Amies
    A well dressed gentleman's pocket guide - Oscar Lenius


    Possibly more of a guide to the origins of menswear staples

    Icons of Men's style - Josh Sims
     
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Roetzel has a new one out that's more "how-to" than his last. I prefer "Gentleman," but some may find the new one more useful.
     
  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Dressing the Man by Flusser
    Style and the Man by Flusser
    Clothes and the Man by Flusser
    Men's Coats by Buzzaccarni
    Elegant Man by Villarosa
    Scottish Estate Tweeds by Johnstons of Elgin
    Cuff Links by Jonas and Nissenson
    Le Snob by Simon Crompton
    Bespoke by Anderson
    Eminently Suitable by Boyer
    Elegance by Boyer
    Rebel Style by Boyer
    Fred Astaire Style by Boyer
    Gary Cooper by Bruce Boyer
    Trench by Foulkes
    Cigar Style by Foulkes
    Last of the Dandies by Foulkes
    Shoes by Peacock
    Men's Fashion by Peacock
    Men's Fashion Illustrations from the Turn of the Century by Mitchell
    Sicilian Tailors by Sleevehead (e-book only)
    The Executive Look by Levitt
    The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring by Croonborg
    Classic Tailoring Techniques by Cabrera
    One Hundred Years of Menswear by Blackman
    The Boutonniere by Brioni (essentially)
    Mr. Classic by Hackett
    Cary Grant Style by Torregrossa
    The Allure of Men by Baudot
    Harris Tweed by Platman
    The Savile Row Cutter by Skinner
    The Day of the Peacock by Ross
    ABCs of Men's Fashion by Amies
    The Englishman's Suit by Amies
    The Cut of his Coat by Shannon
    The London Cut by Sherwood
    Bespoke by Sherwood
    The Book of Ties by Chaille
    The Men's Fashion Reader, edited by McNeil and Karaminas
    History of Mens' Accessories by Storey
    History of Men's Fashion by Storey
    History of Men's Etiquette by Storey
    History of Men's Fashion by Chenoune
    The Provocative Pen of Lucius Beebe
    The Fashion Reader, edited by Welters and Lillethun
    Handmade Shoes for Men ("The Vass Book")
    Sharp Suits by Musgrave
    Sotheby's auction catalog for the Duke of Windsor collections
    A Family Album by the Duke of Windsor
    The Suit by Manton
    Hatless Jack by Steinberg
    A Guy's Guide to Style by Roetzel
    The Gentleman's Guide to Timeless Fashion by Roetzel
    A Well Dressed Gentleman's Pocket Guide by Lenius
    85 Ways to Tie a Tie by Fink and Mao
    The Book of Public School Old Boys, University, Navy, Army, Air Force, Club Ties by Laver
    Dandies by Laver
    The various vanity books put out by companies such as Marinella, Rubinacci, Anderson & Sheppard, Old England, etc.
    Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashion by Schoeffler and Gale
    Men in Style by Hochswender and Gross
    Today There are No Gentlemen by Cohn
    Boots and Shoes by FY Golding (SF member DWFII has digital copies posted somewhere)
    Apparel Arts volumes
    Take Ivy by Hayashida
    Textbook on Footwear Manufacture by Thorton
    The Inventors of Tradition by Lipscombe and McKenzie
    Churchhill Style by Singer
    Ivy Style by Boyer and Chensvold (forthcoming)
    The Empire of Fashion by Lipovetsky
    Fashion and its Social Agendas by Crane
    The Culture of Clothing by Roches
    The various books on vintage clothing by Rin Tanaka (more SWD, but many are still good)
    (E)tutee's incredible contributions at London Lounge
    On that note, Voxsartoria/ F. Cobera's "Guide to Coherent Combinations" should also be considered as good as a book (though, as of today, it looks like he took it down)

    If I can make a suggestion - this post should include StyleForum's Amazon affiliate link. If someone purchases a book because of a recommendation here, it would be nice if StyleForum could get some monetary benefit.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Great contribution, thank you, Derek - I hope you don't mind me basically copying and pasting the entire thing into the OP (took out FC's thread since it's down now). Can somebody tell me what the SF affiliate link is and how it works? You click on it, and then once inside Amazon, SF gets credit for purchases?
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I like 'Gentleman' for eye candy, but it's more kind of a list of the different kinds of classic menswear garments and outstanding makers than a how-to of what to wear together or for what occasion or for a given complexion or body type, etc....
     
  9. dustinmyself

    dustinmyself Senior member

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    what i got from "dressing the man" was more or less, "proportion and color" takes top priority.

    I will have to check out some of the others on the list.

    anyone willing to list them in order of "helpfulness"? [​IMG]
     
  10. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I think we should keep the OP just a list, possibly separated into categories (I will have to look more into some of these before being able to do that), without making any value judgments about the books, although I reserve the right to remove or not include suggest books if I think they are unhelpful.

    I encourage the use of the thread as a discussion area for the books though - for instance, "what does Flusser mean when he says...?" or "I found this book particularly helpful for color coordination..." or "What book will give me the best history of the drape cut?" etc....
     
  11. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I suggest separating this into categories.

    There are books here for those who are interested in the history of men's clothing, books for those interested in style icons, books for those who are just looking for very practical guides on how to dress well, and books for those who are interested in technical things.

    To be sure, many of these books overlap. Few of these are "one thing," but rather a mix of the aforementioned. I'm not sure how you can get around that problem besides stating it up front and categorizing each by its general "spirit."

    You'll have to ask Fok for the affiliate link. And yes, when someone clicks on the link and buys a book, SF gets some small percentage of the sale.

    I'm too lazy to, but someone really ought to go through and provide links to Etutee's London Lounge guides. They are some of the best things ever written on this subject.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Just one more note on the purpose of the thread - I think it's clear why I wouldn't want to rank in terms of usefulness. The point of this thread is not to tell newbies what books to read. It's to:

    - present the universe of books that could be helpful, whether you're new to tailored clothing, considering your first bespoke order, or a veteran clothes horse
    - again in the OP, give an idea of what kind of information each book has, through categorization and perhaps a VERY short, non-judgmental statement about the contents of each book, so that you have a nice centralized tool to help you decide which books to read
    - provide a space to discuss books on clothing
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012
  14. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Senior member

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  15. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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