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Definition of Unconstructed Blazer/SC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by m0bbie, Mar 1, 2013.

  1. m0bbie

    m0bbie Senior member

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    Hello all,

    I have encountered a new term, "Unconstructed Blazer/SC", which I have questions about.

    Does it mean that the jacket has no canvas, no glue, no nothing?

    If so, how do I tell apart the quality of it? Fabric?

    Also, can you please give me an example of decent suit-makers that makes unconstructed jacket?

    Thank you for all responses.
     
  2. itraxx

    itraxx Senior member

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    It means there is little to no padding in the shoulders, usually unlined or half lined.

    It is a typically Italian style so look at Boglioli, LBM 1911 etc.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. m0bbie

    m0bbie Senior member

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    So, it still has the full-canvassed, half-canvassed, and fused, depends on the quality right?
     
  4. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    No. There may be some light padding and some lining in the shoulders and sleeves, usually neither in the fronts. I have a couple of linen jackets and a cotton one which have nothing in them, they are almost like linen cardigans but cut and shaped like blazers.
     
  5. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    Yes, with lighter materials than a standard jacket.
    It's pretty easy to check the construction in unlined jacket looking under the lining and inside fabric.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  6. m0bbie

    m0bbie Senior member

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    Yes... or no?
     
  7. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    Canvassing and lining are obviously two different things.

    Pictures speak better

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  8. m0bbie

    m0bbie Senior member

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    What does it mean by "nothing in them"?

    As far as I know, fused jacket has nothing in them as well, isn't it?
     
  9. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    Guys take a jacket and look at it, don't read simply sentences over internet.
    These are two lapels of soft totally unlined jacket, without padding etc..."with nothing in them"...

    A cotton twill and an herringbone wool, you can see the very light fusing in both.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Jacket uncanvassed or unfused exists but are of cheap quality or require a proper fabric , a lot of the jackets considered totally uncostructed in reality are light canvassed or light fused.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  10. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There is no real definition of an Unconstructed Jacket- the name merely implies certain characteristics, like calling something a "sports car". It may or may not be unlined or partially-lined. It may be full or half canvas or fused, in rare cases it may have no interlining at all. It may or may not have padding in the shoulder and sleeve. Generally the materials, interlinings and padding are softer and lighter, and the cut of the coat is different from a fully-constructed one (the specific details of which would mean little or nothing to the layperson).
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
    5 people like this.
  11. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    The only unconstructed jacket I have is lined (a mixture of whatever it's called when the facings extend way far back and some thing cotton), but has no shoulder padding and no structure in the chest that I can detect. I think of it as akin to a shirt that's been cut like a jacket out of heavier (in my case, brown mid-wale cord) cloth.I could chuck it in the wash, if I wanted to.
     
  12. eddievddr10

    eddievddr10 Senior member

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    ding! ding! ding!
    I dont know why this scammer the OP Rachapoll Phromyarat (who scammed me and my brother out of $2300) still has the balls to post and why is he not banned??
     
  13. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    Have you reported him to the site owners?
     
  14. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Did paypal come to resolution on the case?
     
  15. eddievddr10

    eddievddr10 Senior member

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    ding! ding! ding!
    yes and yes they decided in his favor since it was a chargeback
     
  16. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Great answer.

    It's one of those terms that gets thrown around a lot and covers a multitude of things. It seems to be to be popular over recent years not so much for its inherent descriptive power but more for its marketing/branding value (i.e. it can be used to position a product/line within a certain lifestyle/attitude).

    I'm currently selling a jacket in the classifieds that's partially lined and with minimal amounts of internal structure, but even then, I largely shied away from using the term unconstructed or deconstructured (though I think it slipped in once or twice in the info) and preferred to call it low-structure or lightly-structured and just explained why. The terms gets kind of confusing to me, as a non-tailor, otherwise.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2013

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