Decade's End: Top Ten Collections 2000-2010

[Razele]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

For people who make marsupialed posts in this thread, I shall attribute to you a season. Yours is Andrew Mackenzie S/S 2005. http://www.milanfashionshows.com/spr...zie/photos.htm
Wow this is gold

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by macuser3of5

the only raf collection i really dug, end to end, was that hippie/eloi spring/summer collection. made a statement without being overt or too anything.

Re: YSL/Slimane... I forgot how thin those dudes were... Probably wearing Large though, eh rach?

Large=size 44 or so. Sizing is dumb, like old Balenciaga dumb.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

Large=size 44 or so. Sizing is dumb, like old Balenciaga dumb.

We were having the same thought; I was getting ready to say, "Sizing was about as odd as the first Balenciaga seasons."

I remember trying on, IIRC, a size 54 once in the very early Balenciaga men's seasons. I'm like a 46-48 in everything else.

The YSL stuff was very odd, too. Not just in the sizing, but in the way it was cut. I think I remember reading once that it was best fitted on a "very large snake."

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

We were having the same thought; I was getting ready to say, "Sizing was about as odd as the first Balenciaga seasons."

I remember trying on, IIRC, a size 54 once in the very early Balenciaga men's seasons. I'm like a 46-48 in everything else.

The YSL stuff was very odd, too. Not just in the sizing, but in the way it was cut. I think I remember reading once that it was best fitted on a "very large snake."

Yeah, those seasons made no sense at all, under any sizing system. I remember the SA saying "it fits sort of small" so I sized up to a 52, (I was a 50 at the time) and was literally squeezed like a sausage - and this was before Hedi Slimane superslim fits becasue the norm, so it felt really odd. Back in 2000, 2001, 2002, Costume National, Helmut Lang (before the brief move to NYC,) Miu Miu, Prada (do you guys remember Prada's "western" season?) Martin Margiela, Jil Sander, all of whom, imo, have fallen off since then, all did some very solid menswear collections. And Moleskin was used much more prevalently! Bring back moleskin. Helmut Lang and Costume National, in particular, made great use of it.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

Yeah, those seasons made no sense at all, under any sizing system. I remember the SA saying "it fits sort of small" so I sized up to a 52, (I was a 50 at the time) and was literally squeezed like a sausage - and this was before Hedi Slimane superslim fits becasue the norm, so it felt really odd. Back in 2000, 2001, 2002, Costume National, Helmut Lang (before the brief move to NYC,) Miu Miu, Prada (do you guys remember Prada's "western" season?) Martin Margiela, Jil Sander, all of whom, imo, have fallen off since then, all did some very solid menswear collections. And Moleskin was used much more prevalently! Bring back moleskin. Helmut Lang and Costume National, in particular, made great use of it.
I still have a few pairs of the original "technofabric" Prada pants... the ones made of wool, rubber, metal, etc. before they just put in elastic. They were great and had the most wonderful feel. Lang's old fabrics were very neat (I had forgotten all about Moleskin!), and of course one of Jil's key selling points was always innovative, luxe fabric. CN always was a hit in the STYLE, for me, but he sometimes went too far with the fabrics. I had a few pieces from AW02 or thereabouts, and I think Cappasa was going for a coated cotton, but instead it sort of felt like a thick plastic garbage bag.

One other neat thing about the Hedi YSL seasons was that most of the items that look like Nylon are, in fact, 100% silk. That's one reason why things as simple as the black karate/judo pants were $600+. I almost bought a pair of the leather pants, too. I wish I had, though I have no clue where I'd have worn them, and they cost as much as my first car.

 

[macuser3of5]

I had a gold silk tshirt and some black pants... size L and was tight on my 46 frame

Not sure what happened to the shirt or the pants, though

I second the moleskin comment, not sure why that fell off.

 

[rach2jlc]

I think the SW&D Veterans (meaning us dinosaurs nearing, or past, thirty y.o.) ought to take two days and wear old-school stuff. Take pictures wearing your lang moleskin, prada techno, Cn garbage bags, YSL and Balenciaga tube tops (haha).

I think most of my stuff is still in storage; I may take a trip out and see what I can come up with.

 

[macuser3of5]

too bad I got rid of my HL 'phantom collar', could wear that with the 'inside out' cowboy jeans for the full look

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

I think the SW&D Veterans (meaning us dinosaurs nearing, or past, thirty y.o.) ought to take two days and wear old-school stuff. Take pictures wearing your lang moleskin, prada techno, Cn garbage bags, YSL and Balenciaga tube tops (haha).

I think most of my stuff is still in storage; I may take a trip out and see what I can come up with.

I posted a pic wearing an HL moleskin suit and a leather tie.

 

[KitAkira]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

I think the SW&D Veterans (meaning us dinosaurs nearing, or past, thirty y.o.) ought to take two days and wear old-school stuff. Take pictures wearing your lang moleskin, prada techno, Cn garbage bags, YSL and Balenciaga tube tops (haha). I think most of my stuff is still in storage; I may take a trip out and see what I can come up with.

I think the old geezers should pass that stuff onto people whose frames they actually fit

 

[macuser3of5]

funny you say that, over lunch I dug the cowboy jeans out and they're a 32 :/ too big now! sale time!

 

[winston]

Lanvin summer 2007.

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2007MEN-LANMEN

Catamite chic. I'm thoroughly sick of Lanvin now, but I wanted it bad back then.

Bottega Veneta Fall 2006.

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2006MEN-BVMEN

Wearable classic luxury with enough quirk to the cuts and fabrics to let you know you aren't looking at Zegna. A few streetwear elements in there too. I still use the photos to plan winter outfit colour/texture combos - with other brands of course.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by winston

Lanvin summer 2007. http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2007MEN-LANMEN Catamite chic. I'm thoroughly sick of Lanvin now, but I wanted it bad back then. Bottega Veneta Fall 2006. http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2006MEN-BVMEN Wearable classic luxury with enough quirk to the cuts and fabrics to let you know you aren't looking at Zegna. A few streetwear elements in there too. I still use the photos to plan winter outfit colour/texture combos - with other brands of course.
^Good additions. FW06 was really a great season, probably my favorite in recent memory. A LOT of excellent collections, luxurious, wearable, romantic. Even designers that I usually dislike (Dsquared, DG, etc.) did interesting, not bad collections worth a second look. In that vein, usually LV leaves me going "meh," but their FW05 Nureyev-inspired season was really nice. Not in my top ten, over the top luxurious, unwearable, and expensive ($40k ostrich coat, anyone?), but romantic and sort of, "I wish I could do that!" LV FW05: http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complete/F2005MEN-LVMEN

Originally Posted by KitAkira

I think the old geezers should pass that stuff onto people whose frames they actually fit

Hey, hey, watch it or I'm going to give you FW 2002 Givenchy Couture by Julien MacDonald. You dont want to go there!

 

[rach2jlc]

Just thought I'd bring this thread back up in case some others had any ideas. Some excellent collections have been posted; which ones have we missed?

No Dries? Galliano? Bernhard Willhelm? (haha j/k)

 

[Stone]

YSL S/S 2007 and F/W 2007...elegant, strange, beautifully made - I wish I had more from these two collections. Pilati is a genius.