DB Suit Question...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dorian, Apr 1, 2005.

  1. dorian

    dorian Senior member

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    I recall some time ago reading that a double breasted suit jacket should be tailored a bit longer than would a single breasted...

    Any opinions on this (or explanations)?

    Thanks v. much
     


  2. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    All things equal, a double breasted suit should be slightly shorter than a single breasted.
     


  3. dorian

    dorian Senior member

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  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Bestmastertailor I think was the one who said that as a general rule DB suits should be cut slightly longer. I think it had something to do with the fact that the extra length (I think he was talking about 1/4" -- so not much) is to balance out the added width that the double breasted suit gives the illusion of.

    I recall that A. Harris was also confused as to Bestmastertailor's theory and accepted it with a mere shrug of the shoulders. Personally, I don't think there should be any rules about length here, and that it will be in the eye of the beholder about what looks better (subject to some objective criteria, such as the "cover the seat" rule). Indeed, Bestmastertailor was not proposing any rule per se, but offering an observation that a longer DB jacket will LOOK better because of the need to balance out the width.
     


  5. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Hmmm, a split of authority? Where's Manton when you need him?
     


  6. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    It's not a split on authority.  My response was about the old post.  Bestmastertailor said in that post that a db should be longer.  I'm not saying I agree.  I'm agnostic.
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I agree with Renault78law: DB coats should, all other things being equal, be slightly shorter.  It's basically a matter of the optical illusion presented.  Because of its wrap and almost dead-straight bottom edge, a DB coat "envelops" the wearer and appears longer than an SB coat of the same length.  Because there are no open quarters, or curved front bottom corners, you don't see the trousers at all until they emerge from under that straight bottom edge.  Thus the leg line appears shorter, and the trunk longer.
     


  8. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Good reasoning, and I would concur with it. Again, it's all about the illusion that the db creates. So, my advice is first to listen to Manton, and second to try on a db coat and decide for yourself whether a shorter or longer coat looks better.
     


  9. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They look better about 1/2" shorter than a single breasted jacket, and in practice, every top end brand cuts them that way.
     


  10. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Just to astonish you all with my memory (I have good long term memory, but according to my wife atrociously bad short term memory [​IMG] ), here is the post to which I referred to in my posts above. DB suit length question
     


  11. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The key to what Bestmastertailor was saying is the button stance - it is low on his double breasted suits (which are very likely worn fastened on the bottom button) to disguise a generous midsection. That is very effective if done correctly, but necessitates a longer jacket.

    If the drop is more standard, and especially if worn fastened on the middle button, a shorter jacket looks better, I stand by that.

    And yes, that is a good memory..
     


  12. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I agree with your view on proper length completely.
     


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