DB jacket proportions - lapel width & button position

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by riverrun

Easy: they aren't. Which is why Foo's 'nacci's are a pale imitation of Real Thing that was being made when london house's tailor was still panico...

Wow. That's good...I'm impressed.

- B

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Was the modified version close to what you were envisioning? I've been playing with the idea of a lower DB buttoning point myself.

Yes, I think you nailed it. In the foofed version I see more harmony between the styling elements, lapel, pockets, buttons. The upper torso looks longer and broader. The styling elements sort of disappear, whereas in the other version every element draws attention to itself by its placement and position in relation to the jacket. To me you want to have visual impact from the cut/ balance and proportion of a DB not from eccentric pocket, button and lapel styling and placement. The foofed version may appear more conventional but it allows for the cut of the jacket to prevail.

 

[aj_del]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Thank you. Apparently, at one stage of a Jheeta fitting, you are garlanded with the most fragrant flowers and ride in on a noble, white steed.

- B

It is said that the jewellers from Paris who came to India to repair the maharaja's Cartier jewellery use to ride in Rolls Royces and 2 dancing girls were sent to their chambers at night for entertainment.

Glad to see that the Indian tradition of hospitality and graciousness is not dead and lives on at Paul Jheeta

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Thank you. Apparently, at one stage of a Jheeta fitting, you are garlanded with the most fragrant flowers and ride in on a noble, white steed.

This is evocative of the old days when Huntsman would fit your riding clothes while you were astride a sawhorse.

Despos still maintains this tradition. A strap hangs from the ceiling n one of his many three-way mirrors so h can fit you perfectly for standing on in a train going to Cubs home game.

- B

And on DB's clients insist that the Cub's logo on the t shirt be visible when the jacket is buttoned. I do what I can with what I am given.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by aj_del

It is said that the jewellers from Paris who came to India to repair the maharaja's Cartier jewellery use to ride in Rolls Royces and 2 dancing girls were sent to their chambers at night for entertainment.

Glad to see that the Indian tradition of hospitality and graciousness is not dead and lives on at Paul Jheeta

I prefer 3 dancing girls. It's more better.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

at one stage of a Jheeta fitting, you are garlanded with the most fragrant flowers and ride in on a noble, white steed.

- B

Make sure you share with us your specifics at this fitting, like the ones Bourdain got around minutes 2:10 . . .

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- M

In all seriousness, if my consumer senses of the London tailoring world is correct, Mr. Jheeta and his tailors will soon be the ones producing great works out of there, if not already.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by aj_del

What is the reason that in some of the DBs including one of Rubinacci's whose pic is attached below the lapel does not cover any part of the pocket. Is the width of the lape or the placement of the pocket.

Does the lapel in your DB cover part of the breast pocket when it is buttoned at the center button ?
That's whnay's jacket. If you look at him wearing his Rubinacci DB jackets in photos, the lapel does overlap the breast pocket. I think the reason it doesn't in that picture is because of the way he'd laid it down for the photo (the inside lapel is pulled inward further than it would be when worn). Yes, my lapels do overlap my breast pockets.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

It's also quite convenient for you to say that you just wanted to look like any old Ivy League shmuck. Certaintly Neapolitan tailoring isn't Ivy League, you could simply go to brooks or jpress and get a tweed sack if thats the look your truly claiming to want.
You would be right if: (1) I wanted to dressy purely Ivy League (I have never said that), and (2) if J. Press or Brooks still did sacks the old way. I have expressed admiration for various aspects of Ivy League and American Trad style many times. But I never said I wanted to dress in it exclusively. It's interesting the number of times people criticize me for stupidly going about doing something I've never said I wanted to do. It's a very FNB mode of argument.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

FWIW Matty looks 100x better in his Rubi's then you do so I think its fair to question and or critisize your choice of tailors. Especially since they're so similar to Matt's and you did contact him regarding it and possibly even brought a picture of him to Rubi, or am I wrong? It wouldn't be far from what DTO did to PG. In the same way that DTO doesn't look as good as PG in the same clothes, you don't look as good as Matt in the same clothes.
Maybe you think Matt looks better, but I prefer my own clothes and style. I picked them for a reason, after all. Anyway, to most people, Matt will always look better. People with my body and appearance are often considered unattractive regardless of how they are dressed. No, I never showed a picture of Matt to Rubinacci. Moreover, within the range of what Rubinacci does, I don't think you could sensibly call my clothes copies of his. They are clearly Rubinacci, yes. But as far as suits go, they are far from clones. Consider, for example, the shoulder extension, chest drape, and gorge differences. I believe Matt has a bit of shoulder extension, while I have virtually none--you can kind of tell by looking at how our sleeves drop off differently. Perhaps because he has more extension, the drape between his chest and shoulders is usually far more pronounced than what I have. Then there is the gorge. Mine is a bit higher than his, though his is still more high than low. These differences may be fine, but so are all the differences we discuss on this forum.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

What annoys me is that you come off as this overly experienced, overly knowledgable bespoke customer when in reality you have used only one bespoke tailor that you had 1 or maybe 2 fittings with and conducted the rest of your orders via telephone yet you continue to try and lawyerly talk your way around every single point people make even though some of them are way more experienced with the bespoke process then you are.
First of all, I don't use my "expertise" to prove any points and I don't expect anyone to believe me just because I say so. What you call "lawyerly talk" is simply reasoning. Take, for example, my debate with apropos in this thread. You don't need expertise to argue my points. In fact, he is the one making much larger and bolder statements about tailoring while not being a tailor. That I am eager to disprove them has little to do with any special knowledge on my part--it's mostly basic logic combined with simple observations that I have clearly laid out and which have largely gone unquestioned. Second, you are flatly wrong about my experience with Rubinacci. I had three fittings for my first jacket alone. Every other garment underwent one fitting. Even my dinner jacket, which I took delivery of without a fitting, was later adjusted in a fitting with Luca during one of his New York visits. The reason why I take the time to reply point-by-point to posts such as yours is that the mischaracterizations they spread tend to become forum truth and impede my enjoyment here. It takes a lot of words to reset the record--if you don't want me to use them, try reading me more carefully.

 

[riverrun]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Wow. That's good...I'm impressed.

- B

Pls stop derailing my attempts to derail this thread, thx.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by jamesbond

Your going to leave Bijan? Can you ask Chan if they will copy the Bijan style for me? Ok, thanks.

I am like a man with two passports: one will always be the nation of Teh Bijan.

Bijanian forever!


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by riverrun

Pls stop derailing my attempts to derail this thread, thx.

I was only admiring your deep insight.

I like to think that you would take over once I perish in this thread, like Riff handing the jacknife to Tony, but with better shoes.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

You would be right if: (1) I wanted to dressy purely Ivy League (I have never said that), and (2) if J. Press or Brooks still did sacks the old way.

I have expressed admiration for various aspects of Ivy League and American Trad style many times.

There is no pure Ivy League. There are, however, pure major Ivy and pure minor Ivy.

AFAIK, the latter does involve creased AE seconds. Saphir Renovateur, a foreign product, can help with this, but get the kind that is 15 SPF.


- B

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

There is no pure Ivy League. There are, however, pure major Ivy and pure minor Ivy.

Are you saying that Brown is a lesser version of Harvard? Bastard.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Are you saying that Brown is a lesser version of Harvard? Bastard.

I don't name names.

I suspect that you have summoned by RJman and tomasso at the same time, however, a difficult feat.


- B

 

[George]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

That's whnay's jacket.
What material is this. Flannel?

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Are you saying that Brown is a lesser version of Harvard? Bastard.

You guys all look the same to me.

--Andre