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DB bespoke tailoring tips


Senior Member
May 1, 2012
Reaction score
Dear experts

I have tried to research everything I possibly could on DB tailoring. I have converged on 6x2 peak lapels, hacking pockets with a ticket pocket, half inch shorter than my typical single breasted jackets, good buildup on chest , rolling lapels, double vents and a slightly bigger skirt than my single breasted jacket, a good nipping around the natural waist. I am thinking of trying out DB on a gray with light gray striped formal fabric and a solaro to begin with, and perhaps also a navy blazer with very subtle windowpane.

Things I am still mystified about
- buildup on shoulders - how much padding to put relative to sb- less or more?
- rope shoulders or natural - my sb are natural
- lapels - how wide? My sb range between 3.75 and 4 inches and are beautifully proportioned to my chest and face
- degree of crossover - I am large but don't have a protruding stomach
- placement of the working/closing button, should it be at the same point on the waist as the sb working button, just laterally displaced by a few inches? Lower? Higher?
- overall drape - should the girth be slightly more than sb jackets to accommodate sitting down. My sb jackets are all very well fitting
- darting- where would be most flattering to give a pleasant v shape

I absolutely love the look of prince albert of Kent famous DB blazer with gold buttons and more or less hate what prince Charles wears if that is any help. I work with a competent tailor but like to go in with a position of strength.

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