Darts vs. Non-Darts in Tailored Clothing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ltontheqt, Jan 11, 2016.

  1. ltontheqt

    ltontheqt Senior member

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    My tailor, an old-school American guy, does not use darts. Are they a stylistic preference or is there a definitive reason for them relative to fit?
     




  2. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Darts are necessary to give you some shape to the coat. E.g., a broad chest and a nipped waist. Some very skilled tailors can achieve shaping without darts. Some very skilled tailors don't like darts since it breaks-up the stripes or other patterns on the front of the coat.

    Without darts, the coat falls straight down like a lab coat or a sack. Hence, such are called sack suits.
     


  3. rube

    rube Member

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    Debating whether to dart or pleat my custom shirts, would also like to hear more opinions.
     


  4. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Buy one shirt of each type.

    Wear the shirts.

    Decide which has the look and feel you prefer.

    Opening it up to opinions isn't likely to prove anywhere near as helpful as the above. And what's the big downside? That you'll wind up being out the price of one shirt whose look or fit you don't love? Meh, that's not such a steep price to pay for having learned something genuinely useful. Particularly since even a shirt which you don't love may still be perfectly wearable.

    Besides, one of the things about custom clothing is that it often takes a modest amount of trial and error, before you zero in on exactly what makes you happiest, and who can best provide it.
     


  5. ltontheqt

    ltontheqt Senior member

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    Crow-eating time. Said tailor is making a sport coat for me and is using darts. Just spoke with him. I totally misunderstood our conversation.
     


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