• We would like to welcome Sprezzabox to the Styleforum family as an official Affiliate Vendor! SprezzaBox is a monthly subscription service for men, delivering a unique selection of fashion and lifestyle accessories right to your doorstep.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Darted-Front Trousers?

Douglas

Stupid ass member
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Aug 17, 2007
Messages
14,658
Reaction score
2,297
Being a bigger fella with wide hips, I have largely sworn off flat-front trousers for myself because I have traditionally not found a pair that suits me all that well. I have therefore sworn off most cotton trousers as well, because I find pleated cotton pants not to look all that great - The pleats tend to splay out rather unattractively.

However, a few recent looks in WAYWT have convinced me to give them another go. I was shopping around on eHaberdasher and found some "darted front" Brioni trousers that seem to be an attempt to find some middle ground - allowing some room with a cleaner front presentation. However, I am afraid these will look either like I've got my trousers on backwards or like I stole the bottom half of one of Hillary's pantsuits.

Photo below. Anyone familiar with this concept (it's a new one for me)? Your thoughts?

 

adambparker

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
1,202
Reaction score
4
I've seen a few of these around in the FB Brioni Bonanza as well. Seems to be a thing.

Wouldn't darts actually function the opposite way pleats do? Pleats allow for extra give in the trousers by creating more fabric in front. The darts actually reduce the amount of excess fabric in the front of the trousers, slimming them down a bit. They do not actually offer any additional give, because the fabric is sewn up inside.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

couch

Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2007
Messages
24
Reaction score
13
Front darts are not uncommon in bespoke flat-front trousers and classically styled high-end trousers (especially English/Italian-made ones). Darts function similarly to pleats in adding fullness across the hips and front (or, said another way, taking in fullness at the waist). They usually add less fullness than most pleats and do it more gradually, so they can still present a clean look.

The paradigmatic application for front darts is on trousers that are cut to sit at the true waist, for fit men whose waists are smaller than their hips. The darts allow some subtle shaping, adding ease that keeps the trousers from pulling across the fly area while staying snug at the waist. For trousers that sit low on the hips, or for men whose waists are as wide as or wider than their hips, darts would simply be a less dramatic way than pleats to add diplomatic fullness, especially when sitting. The necessary fullness could probably also be obtained simply by cutting the trousers with an appropriate rise and not tapering them too quickly to the thigh. But darts might be retained by some makers (Brioni would be plausible) in those sizes as a sign of their artisanal heritage and as a marketing detail.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How wide do you like your leg opening on your trousers?

  • 7”

    Votes: 83 17.4%
  • 7.5”

    Votes: 154 32.4%
  • 8”

    Votes: 138 29.0%
  • 8.5”

    Votes: 54 11.3%
  • 9”

    Votes: 24 5.0%
  • 9.5”

    Votes: 11 2.3%
  • 10”

    Votes: 3 0.6%
  • 10.5”

    Votes: 9 1.9%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
433,475
Messages
9,311,830
Members
195,389
Latest member
fb_tailormade
Top