Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Mar 7, 2013.
Spoiler: Full collection
Spoiler: Full collection
It's not nearly as bad if you make abstraction of what DD used to be (I guess a RIP is in order). I'm down with the Encens aesthetic though so the new direction doesn't make my eyes bleed like it does most ppl. I like the colors and the pseudo-technical touches, some individual pieces and details are absolutely vile however.
fuck why is there a thread for this
I get you like this but I can't look past the fact that what predated this stuff was so much better. I mean who buys this? fat rich guys?
As opposed to skinny rich guys ? Please
I made the thread because I thought it might be of interest to some here and because I don't think it's objectively terrible.
Is that so fucking hard to understand ?
whatever the new stuff is, a lot of despair arises from the departure of what was. it held promise, not complete and needing refinement but great potential in past collections. i get that the eastern nomad--or whatever orientalist pipe dream du jour was--wasn't for everyone. but why decide to switch to luxe tailoring ? everything, from the move to the new boutique and adoption of a CDG-inspired business model, seemed almost a sudden realization that indeed the previous aesthetic was just a hazy vision he couldn't share with the world. but at least Rei had established herself before going complete commercialization route (which has, if you ask me, affected even the mainline, i mean just in terms of volume/cut i can't even fit into an L whereas the old skool M blazers were massive and fantastic). anyway just seemed the lazy way out of this endeavor instead of crashing and burning in full draped glory
I don't think it's really offensively bad or anything, just a little boring compared to what people are used to seeing from DD (pronounced 'dee-dee'). I liked ss13, and this has grown on me some. The reality is I'm more likely to wear this than any of the desert nomad/Mongolian horselord stuff (if I were going to wear any at all). The goths are just mad because they used to feel deedee was one of them. If it were the design itself they'd also be railing against Lemaire, whose line isn't so far off from this.
I like the collection, but yea I'm surprised it's DD too. But if you're looking beyond it, it has a luxe-moddish feel... I like the raglan shoulders, the wider cropped tops. Very nice.
^^^^ Yeah I get that, I get the disappointment, the surprise at the jarring change of direction, the laments about him wasting his talent... Doesn't mean the current stuff is necessarily utter trash.
don't think i said that ? but anyway, it just means he's a bit more generic design now that something that stood out and left people gasping...
he used to design based on a color scheme and start the collections from there, layer monochromatics. it was fluid, which he equated with freedom, fabrics and cuts that adapted to the body, "a piece of cloth thrown onto the body" merging with it. he would go out of his way to ignore tenets of classic tailoring and reinforce more androgynous features (think collarbone vs making strong shoulder silhouette). it was a floating asymmetrical frontier with distance between the body and the fabrics. Istanbul meets Venezia !
now ? i don't know, might as well go to pitti ...
I agree with all the above.
He's obviously pulling a Raf Simons but I can relate more to his brand of selling out.
i'd be curious to know if sales have actually jumped in response to his more mainstream direction
so what are people's thoughts on the women's clothing? some of it I quite like.
one thing about both collections is they look a bit old to me. they're not for twenty-something party nuts. they're for people who want to sit at a cafe and sip some coffee while reading the paper, if that makes any sense. my damir pants, which are drop-crotched, never feel dark and edgy to me (and they're from spring 2012, if that matters). they feel a little old-man-ish, which is actually one of the things I like about them. they're like baggy old man pants, just with weird seams and a strong taper. they feel more elegant (kinda hate that word here, but it fits) than slim pants. that is, of course, until I stand up after sitting in them all day at a computer and all the fabric in the rear has wrinkled funny
I am mostly in the Shah boat - there is nothing horrible about this collection. I guess. But I get no emotional reaction from it - it is kind of cool, in that it looks like it was basically designed by John Skelton and the rest of his team, but it sort of makes me sad. I used to sort of rely on Damir (for just a few seasons, I guess - more's the shame) for getting at something that really spoke to and inspired me (as lame as that sounds), and now I just see clothes. Could be my fault, more than his, but I miss the collarbone as much as Shah does, and while the silhouettes are pleasant, I don't really think it's on my radar anymore. I mean, we used to get this.....
I mean, he was always kind of moving east, I guess, but then he hit the black...Now it seems to be following the lanvin/coppens/cdg streetwear look. Am I making sense?
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