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Cutting Open the Custom Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by damonallan, May 12, 2005.

  1. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    Hi all: I need your help. I am thinking of doing business with a custom tailor in Korea and I have one of his suits as a sample. Today I decided to cut it open. Please critique. What is good; what is bad; what can be improved etc.. What should I be looking for on the inside?? [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    You will notice in pic two that there is a lot of fraying in the middle back seam (from inside). How should the person be cutting so to not let this happen.

    Damon
     
  3. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    Here is the sleeve. Â Forgot to attach. [​IMG] Damon
     
  4. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Hello, fellow Seoulite.

    The chestpiece looks machine-stitched. It probably isn't as supple as you'd get from hand-stitching. Don't expect hand-stitched chest canvas for suits costing less than 1.2 million Won, though. And as always, it depends on the tailor.

    Lapel stitching is sparse, but at least it's done by hand. Even the cheaper tailors still do it that way.

    Want nice inside seams for your jacket? Ask for it to be half-lined.

    Despite all of its perceived shortcomings, you probably still scored if you paid less than 500,000 for it. Try buying a decent suit at the department stores for that much.
     
  5. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Alias.

    He does everything else for me at no extra charge including surgeon cuffs etc.

    Anything else to improve upon?

    Damon
     
  6. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Depends on how big your wallet is.

    Which is to say, don't be afraid to upgrade from tailor to tailor. You'll have to, if you hang around boards like this long enough.
     
  7. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm.

    Well, I can twist his arm to create a better one. Give me some extra pointers in making it better. I'll get him to compromise.


    Damon
     
  8. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Trust me, he'll only be willing to do so much until the inevitable cost vs. benefits factors in.

    He won't hand-stitch the canvas. There aren't many who will, at that price range. You could get finer lapel stitching.

    What about the fit? Are you happy with that?

    The shoulderpads don't look well. They look like your average industrial foam-filled polyester felt jobs. See if you can't get your tailor to source some really nice, cotton-felted, cotton-filled ones. Those feel a lot nicer.

    Edit: Who's your tailor, by the way?
     
  9. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

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    What's a won worth? In say Singapore dollars. [​IMG]
     
  10. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    We're floating around 1000 Korean Won to the $1 (US), so figure from there. I'm too lazy.
     

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