Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[Sledge42]

@sambam Thank you for your insight! I am most appreciative of it, and for you participating on this forum answering questions. I am fairly new to the White's Family but I am working up a build right now to purchase my 2nd and 3rd pair. Just don't see this quality anywhere else and I'm glad to have found White's as a brand to "go to!"

 

[birinoah]

Been lurking this thread and White's boots generally, finally going to order myself a pair this weekend. Or maybe 2 pairs. I can't really decide, especially on leather and SD v. BH, but I'll probably order the first makeup below now and likely the second depending on how the first goes. Special shoutouts to @hoppy_IPA , @barbellhacks, @Netvine , and @Legal Eagles for inspiration.

First Makeup:
55 Last Semi-Dress
Brown Horsehide
7 (1 more than normal) nickel eyelets (though not settled on this)
No Celastic Toe box
Brown Edge
Standard Heel (considering asking for a straight taper as described by @hoppy_IPA earlier in this thread)
Standard Lift (I've considered lowering for style reasons, but people say it doesn't look much different
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner (does this matter in any way?
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Soles I'm very unsure about - want a thin rubber sole so these can be very versatile. Maybe composition half soles? Might just call up bakers and see if they have any fun stuff lying around. 430 half soles would be great
Close trim
Medallian cap toe (I hate white's cap-toes with structured toe, but think they look good unstructured)
No Logo
Cut Top

Second Makeup (tempting to make this a basic Brown dress SD, but...):
55 Last Bounty Hunter
Brown Dress (or distressed, or brown smoothout)
7 inch height
brass hooks and eyelets
Unsure on toe box - like how brown dress wears with one. Probably wouldn't do it though
Natural Edge
Standard Heel
Standard Lift
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Probably 430 sole
Close trim
Plain toe
No Logo
rolled top


If I decide I don't need anything beefier than the first SD, I'll probably make the second makeup a MP in brown dress, waxed flesh, or distressed smooth.

 

[American_Psycho11]

I stole one of iamntbatman's pics... because this is what I have been seeing more than I would like lately on Whites... iamntbatman is a gentleman who says this does not bother him (it would not bother me either on a non-dress boot), but it gives us a view into some of these complaints.

@sambam do you consider this stitching acceptable in a White's boot? What causes the unevenness and varying stitch size? If a customer tried to return a pair of boots with this as the only defect, what would be White's response?

Long time lurker, first time poster, still trying to get the formatting of posts down so forgive me. I'm bumping this because I have a pair of White's MPs with this same sort of sloppy stitching. Would love to see it get addressed.

 

[Netvine]

Been lurking this thread and White's boots generally, finally going to order myself a pair this weekend. Or maybe 2 pairs. I can't really decide, especially on leather and SD v. BH, but I'll probably order the first makeup below now and likely the second depending on how the first goes. Special shoutouts to @hoppy_IPA , @barbellhacks, @Netvine , and @Legal Eagles for inspiration.

First Makeup:
55 Last Semi-Dress
Brown Horsehide
7 (1 more than normal) nickel eyelets (though not settled on this)
No Celastic Toe box
Brown Edge
Standard Heel (considering asking for a straight taper as described by @hoppy_IPA earlier in this thread)
Standard Lift (I've considered lowering for style reasons, but people say it doesn't look much different
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner (does this matter in any way?
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Soles I'm very unsure about - want a thin rubber sole so these can be very versatile. Maybe composition half soles? Might just call up bakers and see if they have any fun stuff lying around. 430 half soles would be great
Close trim
Medallian cap toe (I hate white's cap-toes with structured toe, but think they look good unstructured)
No Logo
Cut Top

Second Makeup (tempting to make this a basic Brown dress SD, but...):
55 Last Bounty Hunter
Brown Dress (or distressed, or brown smoothout)
7 inch height
brass hooks and eyelets
Unsure on toe box - like how brown dress wears with one. Probably wouldn't do it though
Natural Edge
Standard Heel
Standard Lift
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Probably 430 sole
Close trim
Plain toe
No Logo
rolled top


If I decide I don't need anything beefier than the first SD, I'll probably make the second makeup a MP in brown dress, waxed flesh, or distressed smooth.

I find the dress leather to be significantly softer and lighter than the dense Horse Hide. Horse Hide as youve seen in pictures has undeniable aesthetic advantages.

One might make the leap to suggest that Dress leather is a bit more comfortable to wear. My 5” HH Semi Dress are surprisingly MUCH heavier than 8” unlined Black Dress Smoke Jumper. HH is solid, the density gives it rigidity and strength. It is very tough. So it would make sense an unstructured HH toe theoretically would look better.

My preference would be the BH over the SD. That is not advice, I just like the feel of the heel. Any others have thoughts on HH vs Dress Leather? Its a tough decision, they are different enough that purchasing both would be justified.

 

[Phalanx]

Been lurking this thread and White's boots generally, finally going to order myself a pair this weekend. Or maybe 2 pairs. I can't really decide, especially on leather and SD v. BH, but I'll probably order the first makeup below now and likely the second depending on how the first goes. Special shoutouts to @hoppy_IPA , @barbellhacks, @Netvine , and @Legal Eagles for inspiration.

First Makeup:
55 Last Semi-Dress
Brown Horsehide
7 (1 more than normal) nickel eyelets (though not settled on this)
No Celastic Toe box
Brown Edge
Standard Heel (considering asking for a straight taper as described by @hoppy_IPA earlier in this thread)
Standard Lift (I've considered lowering for style reasons, but people say it doesn't look much different
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner (does this matter in any way?
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Soles I'm very unsure about - want a thin rubber sole so these can be very versatile. Maybe composition half soles? Might just call up bakers and see if they have any fun stuff lying around. 430 half soles would be great
Close trim
Medallian cap toe (I hate white's cap-toes with structured toe, but think they look good unstructured)
No Logo
Cut Top

Second Makeup (tempting to make this a basic Brown dress SD, but...):
55 Last Bounty Hunter
Brown Dress (or distressed, or brown smoothout)
7 inch height
brass hooks and eyelets
Unsure on toe box - like how brown dress wears with one. Probably wouldn't do it though
Natural Edge
Standard Heel
Standard Lift
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Probably 430 sole
Close trim
Plain toe
No Logo
rolled top


If I decide I don't need anything beefier than the first SD, I'll probably make the second makeup a MP in brown dress, waxed flesh, or distressed smooth.

If it helps, apparently Baker are doing a sale on Semi Dress this weekend. Sound like good makeups though. I'm curious what a straight taper heel is.

 

[RCD33]

Been lurking this thread and White's boots generally, finally going to order myself a pair this weekend. Or maybe 2 pairs. I can't really decide, especially on leather and SD v. BH, but I'll probably order the first makeup below now and likely the second depending on how the first goes. Special shoutouts to @hoppy_IPA , @barbellhacks, @Netvine , and @Legal Eagles for inspiration.

First Makeup:
55 Last Semi-Dress
Brown Horsehide
7 (1 more than normal) nickel eyelets (though not settled on this)
No Celastic Toe box
Brown Edge
Standard Heel (considering asking for a straight taper as described by @hoppy_IPA earlier in this thread)
Standard Lift (I've considered lowering for style reasons, but people say it doesn't look much different
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner (does this matter in any way?
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Soles I'm very unsure about - want a thin rubber sole so these can be very versatile. Maybe composition half soles? Might just call up bakers and see if they have any fun stuff lying around. 430 half soles would be great
Close trim
Medallian cap toe (I hate white's cap-toes with structured toe, but think they look good unstructured)
No Logo
Cut Top

Second Makeup (tempting to make this a basic Brown dress SD, but...):
55 Last Bounty Hunter
Brown Dress (or distressed, or brown smoothout)
7 inch height
brass hooks and eyelets
Unsure on toe box - like how brown dress wears with one. Probably wouldn't do it though
Natural Edge
Standard Heel
Standard Lift
Standard lacing
No Half slip
No leather laces
cream liner
no lineman patch
single midsole
No pull loops
Probably 430 sole
Close trim
Plain toe
No Logo
rolled top


If I decide I don't need anything beefier than the first SD, I'll probably make the second makeup a MP in brown dress, waxed flesh, or distressed smooth.

I actually just recently asked both White's and Baker Boots about adding the extra eyelet to the semi-dress and was told it's not a customizable option. I'm with you though, 7 eyelets would really improve the visual balance of the boot. Speak up if you manage to get it done!

 

[Rymanocerous]

Bakers sale is live. MP and Semi Dress on sale.

MP: https://www.bakershoe.com/product/whites-military-police-service-boot

Semi Dress: https://www.bakershoe.com/product/whites-semi-dress

Custom Semi Dress: https://www.bakershoe.com/product/custom-semi-dress-whites-boots

 

[birinoah]

Nice little sale! It’s acrually making me consider switching the first makeup to be a Brown HH MP boot, then for the second makeup doing a Brown Dress SD or a BH build. @Netvine why’d you go unlined for the BH build? Would you recommend it?

@squatonmyfacebrah link to the straight taper comment is below. Not sure how much of a difference there really is lol.

Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

I'd say a good 8-10 hours so far. Darn Tough light cushion. Although, even in thinner socks like dress socks they still feel a bit too restricting on my ball and toe area. At this point I guess if the E width doesn't work out, I'll just go with a different boot altogether. Alright well at...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Netvine]

Nice little sale! It’s acrually making me consider switching the first makeup to be a Brown HH MP boot, then for the second makeup doing a Brown Dress SD or a BH build. @Netvine why’d you go unlined for the BH build? Would you recommend it?

@squatonmyfacebrah link to the straight taper comment is below. Not sure how much of a difference there really is lol.

Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

I'd say a good 8-10 hours so far. Darn Tough light cushion. Although, even in thinner socks like dress socks they still feel a bit too restricting on my ball and toe area. At this point I guess if the E width doesn't work out, I'll just go with a different boot altogether. Alright well at...

www.styleforum.net

I prefer unlined, They seem to breath better. I dont think unlined is an option for horse. So my Semi Dress HH are lined and honestly it does have a more elegant feel. My BH are brown smooth and so the vamp is unlined. One of the reasons I wanted to try the dress leather is that I could order it unlined and so did with my most recent SJ. The vamp is lined and I trust Whites on this. Its amazing how tough the dress leather is as well. Im still a neophyte so please take my advice with a grain of salt

 

[iamntbatman]

The sale is extremely tempting, but I really should watch my shoe budget (i.e. keep it around $0) these days. I'm pretty sure my next White's makeup is a LTT Bounty Hunter, anyway.

 

[Legal Eagles]

I actually just recently asked both White's and Baker Boots about adding the extra eyelet to the semi-dress and was told it's not a customizable option. I'm with you though, 7 eyelets would really improve the visual balance of the boot. Speak up if you manage to get it done!

I am surprised to hear that... as I own a pair of semi dress White's made with 7 eyelets... (or 4 eyelets and 3 hooks), but it clearly can be done. The distance between each eyelet is just reduced proportionally and with seven eyelets the lacing feels "tighter" on the foot and ankle.

So I don't know why they told you they would not do it.

 

[iamntbatman]

As someone who thinks lots of bootmakers seriously overdo it with the number of eyelets or speedhooks, seven bits of hardware definitely looks more refined than six.

 

[linafelt]

I am surprised to hear that... as I own a pair of semi dress White's made with 7 eyelets... (or 4 eyelets and 3 hooks), but it clearly can be done. The distance between each eyelet is just reduced proportionally and with seven eyelets the lacing feels "tighter" on the foot and ankle.

So I don't know why they told you they would not do it. View attachment 1205920

This looks just right to me. I remember noticing at one pint years ago that BH’s sometimes had 8 and sometimes 9 eyelets, and when i asked someone at White’s they said it just depended on the individual boot maker on any given day. Maybe the same here, and you just got lucky. Or did you request it?

 

[Legal Eagles]

This looks just right to me. I remember noticing at one pint years ago that BH’s sometimes had 8 and sometimes 9 eyelets, and when i asked someone at White’s they said it just depended on the individual boot maker on any given day. Maybe the same here, and you just got lucky. Or did you request it?

As I recall - and it has been a while... I asked for 4 bottom eyelets and 3 top hooks in the "Notes" section of the Baker's order form... but I can't say for sure.

 

[Legal Eagles]

As someone who thinks lots of bootmakers seriously overdo it with the number of eyelets or speedhooks, seven bits of hardware definitely looks more refined than six.

Tell me about it... every try to quickly put on a pair of Alden Indy's in the low morning light while still half asleep? 9 sets (5 eyelets and 4 hooks which by necessity must be really small and really close together) on an ankle boot... really Alden... really?