Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[HolyBootsBatman]

@hoppy_IPA, echoing the applause of the above comments. Stunning.

Thank you for the very informative post!

• Did you go with the hard-rolled or soft-rolled strips?

• You mentioned they seem to be 7/8 ounce, what weight did you order from Tannery Row?

 

[hoppy_IPA]

Hi all & thanks for the kind words. 5 Cold-Rolled strips were ordered in the 5/6oz listing. Hot rolled I would assume is for belts, scabbards , holsters or things of that nature (im not expert on that). I would advise folks to be more patient than me & request a sample prior to ordering as there is clearly things that are lost in translation during this process. @Legal Eagles for instance (myself included) would be greatly dissapointed with this Horsehide in the sense that it's not aged in the cordovan pits & lacks that trademark, intoxicating aroma that makes you want to bury your face in the boot. The pictures on Tannery Row would lead one to believe this would be the case but what I received is intensely different. I would not be afraid to build a fire-fighting boot out of this stuff. If the UFC were to put it on the fight card in a cage match against Distressed or Red Dawg I'd put my money on Russet Horsehide. After 2 days the rub points around my ankles/instep are begging for mercy even though the fit is spot on. The hides used for these boots are as raw as can be in the strictest sense. Traditionally I am anti-product and always wait until the last minute to apply anything to my boots. VSC or neutral creams/pastes (Saphir Medaille D'or 1925 is my fav) are my go-to as I'm a firm believer in letting the leather breathe & be itself. If this stuff doesn't soften up or start to give soon I might resort to giving it a rub down with Lexol. Any suggestions are welcome.



PS - 5 eyelets are a custom option. I think the godfather @cathpah mentioned it at sometime to the effect that hooks wouldn't show below the hem of your trousers. I've stuck with it ever since. Otherwise Im a big hook fan.

 

[brownies]

Hi Folks. Been a long time since i last logged on. Hope you and your respective boots are doing well!

I've had the odd scan through here, but thought I'd ask: has anyone gotten hold of the Main Street boots yet? They are listed in the Whites catalogue, and Mannan & Renz sell them. I've not found any reviews on r/goodyearwelt or here, unless I missed it? Seems a similar beast to the MP (which is very popular) but a bit more formal - which is what I'm after.

Can anyone comment on what the arch support is like in the White's MP boot? Not as much as the SD I presume, but is it still decent? Compared to Iron Rangers (I have these) or the Viberg 2030 (don't have these; I have a pair on the 160 last that have some arch support, but its only a little more than the IRs)?

Thanks!

 

[barbellhacks]

Can anyone comment on what the arch support is like in the White's MP boot? Not as much as the SD I presume, but is it still decent? Compared to Iron Rangers (I have these) or the Viberg 2030 (don't have these; I have a pair on the 160 last that have some arch support, but its only a little more than the IRs)?

On an arbitrary arch-support scale from 1 - 5, with Iron Rangers as 1 and White's Bounty Hunters as 5...I'd put the VIberg 2030 at ~1.5 and the MP around 2.5-3. I'm pretty sure all I'm feeling in the 2030 is a little foam insert beneath leather heel pad.

 

[Chupacabra]

After a couple months of pondering I finally sent the cheese into bakers. I'll list my specs and measurements below and update once the boots arrive.

Semi Dress
Brown Dress
4 row stitch toe cap
double row welt stitch
Single celastic toe box
Half comp sole
Brown edge
standard heels
antique hooks and eyes
10 D - open instep WIDE


Semi Dress
Brown Bison
Cream leather liner
medallion toe cap
double row welt stitch
Single celastic toe box
Half comp sole
Brown edge
standard heels
antique hooks and eyes
10 D - open instep WIDE


My measurements are as followed:

Left
Heel 14 3/4
Instep 10 3/4
Ball 10 1/4

Right
Heel 14 3/8
Instep 10 1/2
Ball 10

Based on this and my tracings Kyle fitted me into Left 10E Right 10D. I have some circulation issues in my left leg so it has a tendency to swell slightly more. Also noted my instep volume is BIG... I often experience pain across the instep on most boots, so Kyle suggested the open instep adjustment.

Considering I wear a 11.5 in athletic shoe, and 10.5 in RW IRs, and measure a 11D or a 11.5D (I forget) on the brannock. I thought 10s seemed small so I requested a try on pair of 10D's. They fit really well out of the box. After a little back and Kyle suggested if the D felt goo, that we should hay there versus the wider left boot. They fit snug, but I could wiggle my toes, and the structured toe didn't bother my toes in a stride or in a crouch. Due to my instep I could not get the front of my foot to touch the front of the boot but If I pushed my foot forward, I could slide at least an index finger between my heel and the back of the boot. Here is a picture showing where my toe is in these 10s (tip of toe is at tip of fingernail).


I still a tad nervous ordering these, however I trust Kyle's intuition and experience, and I know it's going to be a tough 8 weeks until they arrive.

 

[iamntbatman]

Wow, I can't wait to see those, especially the brown dress SDs with 4 rows of toe cap stitching! I think that's gonna look fantastic.

 

[HolyBootsBatman]

I really like the Russet Horse Hide Bounty Hunters that hoppy_IPA posted a few days ago. I bet like many here, it had me thinking of my own MTO.

At Tannery Row, the choice is between Hard-rolled & Soft-rolled sides. The choice reminded me that in hoppy's thankfully descriptive posting he repeatedly mentioned how incredibly stiff his Russet leather is.

This had me a bit worried, so I did some research. And I thought I'd share, to at least further the discussion. And hopefully elicit other's input who have a more informed leather knowledge than me.

Question, does it sound like Soft Rolled may be a a good choice, and hopefully be closer to Oil Tan sturdiness, rather than the Hard Rolled?
Is there another category that I am unaware of - Hot & Cold rolled?

The link to what I found: Link

 

[Sledge42]

Seems this is the place to be to read up on the best discussion on the web RE: White's Boots. Just joined the White's camp with a pair of MP M1's that Huckberry kindly and temporarily dropped the price on over Memorial Day weekend. I gave them their maiden voyage this week... and I'm hooked!

Great read of the first 861 pages of this thread, already plotting my next pair of White's! Appreciative of all the knowledge and pictures here in this "appreciation thread!"

 

[hoppy_IPA]

@HolyBootsBatman - looks like my memory was a little fuzzy when typing up my thoughts (dang boot fever) as I referred to it as hot & cold rolled but I think might actually be part of the process. In any case, the hard rolled stuff could not be lasted so if you go for it be sure and order soft rolled. Check with Kyle or I can follow up (need to check in with him anyways) as to how much of the 5 strips I ordered they actually used. At only $22/strip it's always better to be on the safe side but you can get away with only 4 no reason to let it go to waste. I asked to kyle to check into what was left as Id really like some White's stamped coasters with it for fun.
You may also consider going with a Semi-Dress build. The partially gusseted tongue & 5" height might lend itself well towards comfort. The ease of putting on SD's & taking them is a guilty pleasure of mine when deciding which boots to throw on. Alternatively, if you go for Bounty Hunters or maybe even Packers I wouldn't ask for a specific height & let your cobbler see how big/tall of a die the strips can fit .. unless of course your set on 6" or something. OK I'm babbling - keep us posted!

 

[HolyBootsBatman]

@HolyBootsBatman - looks like my memory was a little fuzzy when typing up my thoughts (dang boot fever) as I referred to it as hot & cold rolled but I think might actually be part of the process. In any case, the hard rolled stuff could not be lasted so if you go for it be sure and order soft rolled. Check with Kyle or I can follow up (need to check in with him anyways) as to how much of the 5 strips I ordered they actually used. At only $22/strip it's always better to be on the safe side but you can get away with only 4 no reason to let it go to waste. I asked to kyle to check into what was left as Id really like some White's stamped coasters with it for fun.
You may also consider going with a Semi-Dress build. The partially gusseted tongue & 5" height might lend itself well towards comfort. The ease of putting on SD's & taking them is a guilty pleasure of mine when deciding which boots to throw on. Alternatively, if you go for Bounty Hunters or maybe even Packers I wouldn't ask for a specific height & let your cobbler see how big/tall of a die the strips can fit .. unless of course your set on 6" or something. OK I'm babbling - keep us posted!

Thank you

 

[linafelt]

Wow, I can't wait to see those, especially the brown dress SDs with 4 rows of toe cap stitching! I think that's gonna look fantastic.

Yes, will be very interesting to see the four row toe cap stitching. Presumably something like these Thorogoods (attached).

Things have changed at White's. Several years ago when I ordered my BH's I asked if they could do a double stitch on the toe cap (basically like they now do on the MPs) and they said no without hesitation. And now you can do four rows! Right on.

 

[hoppy_IPA]

@ThreeLions - how have these beauties been holding up? Curious how much wear you've been getting out of them and how they're looking after 8 months

...wanted to bump this post anyways bc those pics are great to look at

The UPS truck delivered a much awaited package to the house on Monday evening. I thought I'd share with you some pictures.

These are really awesome. They have every option that I wanted in a boot.

12" tall:

 

[iamntbatman]

Yes, will be very interesting to see the four row toe cap stitching. Presumably something like these Thorogoods (attached).

Things have changed at White's. Several years ago when I ordered my BH's I asked if they could do a double stitch on the toe cap (basically like they now do on the MPs) and they said no without hesitation. And now you can do four rows! Right on.

It honestly is really putting a lot of other makers to shame. White's seems to be teaming up with more and more brands to offer off-the-shelf make-ups or something along the lines of mass GMTOs, also seems to be pushing their off-the-shelf lifestyle line of boots as well as their work and fire boots, all of which would seemingly gear their production toward more efficiency but with less capacity for variations and one-offs, yet is also increasing their willingness to do some pretty outrageous MTO requests without issue is totally fantastic to me. Other companies, which shall remain nameless, can't seem to do that last bit at all without utterly botching things.

 

[Chupacabra]

I’m a tiny bit skeptical if the four row cap stitch will happen, but when I asked Kyle while ordering he didn’t bat an eye. I think it will look great as long as the caps are symmetrical.

 

[Netvine]

White's still makes the best boots in the world.
Thank you again to Brandon, Kyle and Bakers Boots!
I wanted to post some pics before these got dirty. Ill post more in the future, I am very short on time (and sleep).
I am so incredibly happy and relieved. BUILDABOOT works perfectly by the way. PERFECTLY. I apologize for amateur hour on the pictures this morning. Thank You to the Styleforum White's thread an invaluable resource that keeps growing everyday.
Products on order:

1 x

Whites Smoke Jumper Leather 1: Black Dress Leather 2: Red Dog Bull Hide Toe Vamp Leather: Black Dress Toe Cap Leather: None Celastic Toe Box: None Safety Toe: No Thanks Heel Counter Leather: Black Dress Height: 8" Upper (Shaft) Leather : Black Dress Leather Liner: No Thanks Sole Trim: Standard Trim Top: Cut Back Stay Leather: Red Dog Bull Hide Pull Loop: No Eyelet Color: Nickel Eyelet Configuration : Hook and Eyelet Top Garment: Eyelet Lace Design: Plain Toe Lace: Nylon False Tongue: Red Dog Bull Hide Sole: Vib 430 Half Slip: No Heel Shape: Curve Heel Height: Plus 1/4" Last: Standard Midsole: Standard Midsole/Edge Color: Black Size - Length: 8.5 Size - Width: D