Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[CaptMorgan223]

What you've written reads to me like your best fit for the boot will be a size 9D.

Crazy thing is that I have a pair of Nick's Builder Pros for work in size 9D moderate (low) arch and they fit great. They sized me right first time and no fit issues.

At this point im really considering paying for extra try on pairs maybe size 9D and 8.5D?

 

[CaptMorgan223]

What is your heel to toe Brannock vs your heel to ball (arch) length Brannock? (Measured by someone who knows how to use the device properly, of course...)

Sound like you might have extra long toes...

Here is a good explanation I read somewhere:

The length from the heel to the ball of the foot is just as important as the length from the heel to the tip of the toe. People with short toes need different shoe sizes than people with long toes, even if their overall foot length is the exact same. This is because shoes are designed to flex at the ball of the foot and provide arch support. If your foot and your shoe are not flexing in the same position, your arch isn’t properly supported, which can lead to strained feet and/or toes that are confined into unnatural positions. The Brannock Device takes heel-to-ball length into consideration when determining your proper shoe size...

Instructions & Fitting Tips | The Brannock Device Company

Why Heel-to-Ball Is Essential This illustration shows two feet which are the same length, but each require different size shoes. There are different fittings for short-toed feet and long-toed feet. Proper shoe-fitting incorporates not only overall length (heel-to-toe measurement) but also arch...

brannock.com

If I had to guess (and that is all this is based on an internet post), I would say @DG123 or @hoppy_IPA are correct... you need a 9... likely a E width... but maybe D. It can be hard for anyone, even a professional, to tell toe length from tracings alone... I know my tracings just look like an amorphous blob...

Thanks for the feedback. I know I have somewhat wide ball, short toes and a narrow heel.
My Nick's builder pros for work are 9D.

I have heard White's use similar lasts if not the same ones as Nicks?
The only difference I could tell in 55 lasts was nicks have significantly higher arch support and taller heel hence I went for low arch because it was too extreme.

 

[plugugly88]

If you haven't done so, try the search here which will give you much more targeted information. I'm not in the know on French calf but black dress is a good jump off point. Taking the time to get size and last dialed in is as or more important than the leather chosen though not nearly as fun

I’m with you on the sizing and last situation. I’m doing that work currently, and have my tracings and measurements sent in already. I like the process!

As for the dress leather, based on my previous search here, seems it’s well liked in this community, I just don’t have much info about what it is, where it comes from, how it ages, etc. Compared to other leathers, I don’t see much information about it. Seems it is on the thinner side, and takes a shine easier.

 

[wordfool]

How sure are you about your Brannock size? In my experience, Brannock runs a half size bigger than White's 55 last. I am a 12.5C Brannock & wear a 12D in the 55 last. This extends to other PNW makers who use the 55 last for me as well.

IMHO - it sounds like you need to size up. Maybe worth biting the bullet & paying for a try on pair. Id try a 9E if you go that route.

I think it can vary depending on overall foot shape. My brannock size is 11.5C, bordering on D (and bordering on 12 for my larger foot). I was sized for 10.5C in White's 55 last, and they fit fine, though definitely better on my larger foot than my smaller one. I was recommended a 10C on the MP last and they don't really fit my larger foot very well. The problem with my feet is that they're low volume vertically more than width-wise, and are very "non-fleshy" between heel pad and ankle, which can make sizing shoes (particularly heels) a bit of a crapshoot and very dependent on last and shoe/boot upper shape

 

[Luscombe]

I have french calf main streets and they are my favourite boot. They let me do them in black sole thread which really makes them imo. I'd love to find out if it can be done with a 5050

photo please

 

[DG123]

Crazy thing is that I have a pair of Nick's Builder Pros for work in size 9D moderate (low) arch and they fit great. They sized me right first time and no fit issues.

At this point im really considering paying for extra try on pairs maybe size 9D and 8.5D?

I believe 9D will be good, but if you want to try two pairs make it 9D and 9E.

 

[DG123]

The problem with my feet is that they're low volume vertically more than width-wise, and are very "non-fleshy" between heel pad and ankle, which can make sizing shoes (particularly heels) a bit of a crapshoot and very dependent on last and shoe/boot upper shape

Remember the last for a narrow width size (compared to a medium width last) is as much about being more shallow (top to bottom) as is it is more narrow (side-to-side). For your shallow instep height and relatively narrow-bony heel, you might find that trying longer length sizes in narrow widths will give you the best fit. For example, an 11B or 11.5B may fit you better than a 10.5C.

 

[discomute]

photo please

 

[Properwawa]

They perhaps had to take the heel off to fix the midsole issue, but it's weird they forgot to shape the new one, especially when it looks like they did a nice chamfer on the top edge of the heel so obviously paid some attention to finishing. They'll be well-traveled boots by the time they do another round-trip to White's!

The problem is that I’m in Canada, so to send them back I’d have to pay shipping, then customs when it comes back to me. Don’t really want to go through that again. I’ve reached out to Baker’s to see what they say

 

[Jimk4003]

The problem is that I’m in Canada, so to send them back I’d have to pay shipping, then customs when it comes back to me. Don’t really want to go through that again. I’ve reached out to Baker’s to see what they say

White's should pay the shipping both ways. I've done warranty exchanges from the UK, and White's picked up the tab for each round trip.

The customs fees are another matter. I just ended up paying the fees, but maybe White's could offer you a partial refund/ credit to offset the cost to you. It's their mistake, after all.

 

[wordfool]

Remember the last for a narrow width size (compared to a medium width last) is as much about being more shallow (top to bottom) as is it is more narrow (side-to-side). For your shallow instep height and relatively narrow-bony heel, you might find that trying longer length sizes in narrow widths will give you the best fit. For example, an 11B or 11.5B may fit you better than a 10.5C.

Yeah, I considered that and have tried various size up/down/narrow/wide options over the years (decades, actually!) but any narrower on a 55 last and my instep would feel crushed -- the 10.5C hugs my instep and the ball of my foot nicely (a bit too nicely when new), and can get plenty tight enough over the top of my foot. My feet just seem to be slightly too low volume between the base of my heels and ankles, and after decades of trying to figure out how best to accommodate my chicken ankles I'm resigned to accepting "good enough" and now consider my feet to be just a PITA in general. The 1/4" of so of heel lift on my smaller foot goes away as the boots break in (and there's no lift on my other foot) so I'm not too worried.

I guess it would have been interesting to try many pairs of White's in various sizes and lasts to see if there is a magic combo, but alas I'm 3000 miles away on the other coast. Maybe one day I'll be in the Eugene area and discover all my pairs of White's are actually the wrong size, but ignorance is bliss and for now I'm happy with how they fit.

 

[chicagoan2016]

Maybe one day I'll be in the Eugene area and discover all my pairs of White's are actually the wrong size, but ignorance is bliss and for now I'm happy with how they fit.

I would love to visit Baker's/White's one day but I am scared of the same thing happening to me.
I wouldn't be the happiest person in the world if I found out my White's were wrong size.

 

[Properwawa]

White's should pay the shipping both ways. I've done warranty exchanges from the UK, and White's picked up the tab for each round trip.

The customs fees are another matter. I just ended up paying the fees, but maybe White's could offer you a partial refund/ credit to offset the cost to you. It's their mistake, after all.

I had asked about the shipping cost when I sent the pair back, but they said they wouldn’t cover the shipping to them, only the fees shipping back to me. Not sure what they’ll say this time.

 

[Bronco68]

Yeah, I considered that and have tried various size up/down/narrow/wide options over the years (decades, actually!) but any narrower on a 55 last and my instep would feel crushed -- the 10.5C hugs my instep and the ball of my foot nicely (a bit too nicely when new), and can get plenty tight enough over the top of my foot. My feet just seem to be slightly too low volume between the base of my heels and ankles, and after decades of trying to figure out how best to accommodate my chicken ankles I'm resigned to accepting "good enough" and now consider my feet to be just a PITA in general. The 1/4" of so of heel lift on my smaller foot goes away as the boots break in (and there's no lift on my other foot) so I'm not too worried.

I guess it would have been interesting to try many pairs of White's in various sizes and lasts to see if there is a magic combo, but alas I'm 3000 miles away on the other coast. Maybe one day I'll be in the Eugene area and discover all my pairs of White's are actually the wrong size, but ignorance is bliss and for now I'm happy with how they fit.

I flew on Delta from Atlanta to Portland with return flight Seattle to Atlanta for $365 then receive a $200 travel credit from AMEX, so my round trip airfare was $165. If you can travel there, I highly encourage it.

 

[Bronco68]

I would love to visit Baker's/White's one day but I am scared of the same thing happening to me.
I wouldn't be the happiest person in the world if I found out my White's were wrong size.

It could do one of two things which both are positive:

1) A trip to Baker’s confirms you have the right size;

2) A trip to Baker’s confirms you have the wrong size, but you are now an informed, educated buyer that can purchase the next boots with confidence!

I see it as a win-win.