Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[Legal Eagles]

I'll bite, is it just because of the gamble and that the break can be unattractive? Most of the cxl boots I've had have been rough out so I didn't run into that issue but I did have a pair of Alden boots where the break did not look good over time. I like the idea of elk tan but I think it's a bit darker than I'd prefer.

CXL scuffs and shows wear and is "softer" than I like for boot leather. It has so many waxes and oils that I cannot get a really good shine unless I clean the surface with saddle soap, or wait a couple years for the oils to migrate out. Even if the above are not deal breakers, you then still have to deal with the chance of a bad break.

To me, there are other better choices for a boot. I do like CXL in light duty applications, hence the loafer comment. If I was to get CXL, it would be British Tan (assuming I could actually get it in tan... not brown) because BT, while called CXL is subtly different than the others.

To me most CXL boots look "slumpy" (is that even a word in English?) and prematurely aged, and I like my boots to look new for as long as possible. It is also possible that I was turned off CXL by Wolverine and the horrible CXL they used in their 1000 mile boots a decade ago... I have still not recovered...

 

[barbellhacks]

Lined Horsehide in the color of your choice... nothing ages like it.

Forgot one

[] starts with "chromex"

I have brown HH bounty hunters. Love them.

 

[chicagoan2016]

CXL scuffs and shows wear and is "softer" than I like for boot leather. It has so many waxes and oils that I cannot get a really good shine unless I clean the surface with saddle soap, or wait a couple years for the oils to migrate out. Even if the above are not deal breakers, you then still have to deal with the chance of a bad break.

To me, there are other better choices for a boot. I do like CXL in light duty applications, hence the loafer comment. If I was to get CXL, it would be British Tan (assuming I could actually get it in tan... not brown) because BT, while called CXL is subtly different than the others.

Most CXL boots look prematurely aged, and I like my boots to look new for as long as possible. It is also possible that I was turned off CXL by Wolverine and the horrible CXL they used in their 1000 mile boots a decade ago... I have still not recovered...

I also like British Tan CXL and that would be probably the one I would get unless natural HH is available.
I have three pairs of Allen Edmonds boots in CXL and I haven't noticed any problems.

 

[Legal Eagles]

I have three pairs of Allen Edmonds boots in CXL...

Yes, but do you have any experience with men's boots in CXL? (I kid... I kid... )

 

[Rymanocerous]

Depends on one's foot -- my MPs are 1.5 sizes down from brannock and a half size smaller than my 55-last boots. Go figure. I was skeptical when baker's suggested that size for the MPs, but they fit fine. I could probably have gone with the same size as my SDs and BHs, but erring on the side of smaller was probably the best call for my narrow-ish feet.

You got weird feet brother.

Jokes aside, everyone foot is different so there will always be various examples. But my first pair was TTS and perfect. I feel into the size chasing and ordered a 1/2 down on my recent pair and even with a lot of stretching, they are still too tight. I hate putting them on and rarely reach for them. I have always been suspect of the general sizing advice .5 down and White's IG comments really are hammering home that may not be the most conventional wisdom for most people; its a pretty narrow last.

I partially also think this is an indicator that their experience with this last has grown and as such, their guidance has adjusted. It would be super interesting to see from them (like a plot graph) on how they end up sizing people compared to their Brannock. Then again, a bunch of people out their don't know their actual Brannock, so there is all sorts of information that ends up floating around out there.

 

[wordfool]

its a pretty narrow last.

I think that is the key. Baker's told me that the MP last runs longer than the 55 last and because I have narrow feet I could get away with taking advantage of that additional length and sizing down more since width was never going to be a problem with my feet. Anyone with wider than average feet perhaps needs to go closer to TTS just to get the width, even if that means there's more overall length than necessary. Having said that, I feel that the MP last has a wider heel than the 55 last, even if the rest of the length is slightly narrower.

 

[klank74]

I've officially placed an order with Bakers for my second pair of whites. These will be used for work and I can't wait! I went to work today and put on my work boots (thorogood moc toes). After wearing my new SD's all weekend, it became apparent that I didn't realize how stretched out and shot my work boots are. I've already added a few tweaks to this order that I think will make these even more comfortable than the SD's are.

Custom White's Smoke Jumper
Last- 38 swing
Toe Vamp Leather- Red Dog Smooth
Upper (Shaft) Leather- Red Dog Smooth
Counter Leather- Red Dog Smooth
Leather Liner- No Thanks
Toe Cap- No Thanks
Celastic Toe Box- Single Celastic Toe
Steel Toe- No Thanks
Pull Loops- Leather Pull Loops
Hardware- Nickel Eyes & Hooks
Top- Rolled Top
Midsole- Double
Edge- Natural
Sole Trim- Standard Trim (Double Row Stitch)
Sole- Vibram Honey 100 Lug
Lace Design- Lace To Toe
Height- 8"
Heel Lifts- Standard
Size - Length- 13
Size - Width- C

 

[chicagoan2016]

I've officially placed an order with Bakers for my second pair of whites. These will be used for work and I can't wait! I went to work today and put on my work boots (thorogood moc toes). After wearing my new SD's all weekend, it became apparent that I didn't realize how stretched out and shot my work boots are. I've already added a few tweaks to this order that I think will make these even more comfortable than the SD's are.

Custom White's Smoke Jumper
Last- 38 swing
Toe Vamp Leather- Red Dog Smooth
Upper (Shaft) Leather- Red Dog Smooth
Counter Leather- Red Dog Smooth
Leather Liner- No Thanks
Toe Cap- No Thanks
Celastic Toe Box- Single Celastic Toe
Steel Toe- No Thanks
Pull Loops- Leather Pull Loops
Hardware- Nickel Eyes & Hooks
Top- Rolled Top
Midsole- Double
Edge- Natural
Sole Trim- Standard Trim (Double Row Stitch)
Sole- Vibram Honey 100 Lug
Lacen- Lace To Toe
Height- 8"
Heel Lifts- Standard
Size - Length- 13
Size - Width- C

Double midsoles! That's what I am talking about!

 

[Phil McCrackin]

My two favourites, not easy to get WB in UK ..
Id like these Red Dog paired with the laces in second pair, again hard to find ..

 

[Chrikelnel]

Does Elk Tan Brown darken (or lighten) with age or does it stay about the same? I believe it's what I'll be getting.

 

[montanamike]

Does Elk Tan Brown darken (or lighten) with age or does it stay about the same? I believe it's what I'll be getting.

I believe @Sledge42 has posted some pictures of brown elk tan with some use. I would guess it would be somewhat similar to brown dress. My black elk tan is still pretty new and I think is different in the fact it is struck through so not a great direct comparison.

 

[Sledge42]

Does Elk Tan Brown darken (or lighten) with age or does it stay about the same? I believe it's what I'll be getting.

I have only had mine about a year and they have spent the better part of the last 7 months or so in the closet due to Corona.
Elk Tan Wears well, but I have not had them long enough to see any drastic change in color.

 

[ExtraitdeMinimalist]

You got weird feet brother.

Jokes aside, everyone foot is different so there will always be various examples. But my first pair was TTS and perfect. I feel into the size chasing and ordered a 1/2 down on my recent pair and even with a lot of stretching, they are still too tight. I hate putting them on and rarely reach for them. I have always been suspect of the general sizing advice .5 down and White's IG comments really are hammering home that may not be the most conventional wisdom for most people; its a pretty narrow last.

I partially also think this is an indicator that their experience with this last has grown and as such, their guidance has adjusted. It would be super interesting to see from them (like a plot graph) on how they end up sizing people compared to their Brannock. Then again, a bunch of people out their don't know their actual Brannock, so there is all sorts of information that ends up floating around out there.

I’m TTS brannock in the MP’s at 10D, I think a 9.5E would near perfect.

Baker’s received my pair to rebuild
8” smoke jumper
Vamp and heel are Burgundy Horse hide $100 upgrade (yikes)
Flat box

8-10 week wait. I can’t wait but my BH and SJ will hold me over. Now I’m not even sure if I need anything during their next sale.

 

[chicagoan2016]

Now I’m not even sure if I need anything during their next sale.

You would be surprised (pleasantly : )), coming from someone who wears boots only (over ten AE pairs) and waiting for White's next sale lol

 

[Rymanocerous]

I’m TTS brannock in the MP’s at 10D, I think a 9.5E would near perfect.

Baker’s received my pair to rebuild
8” smoke jumper
Vamp and heel are Burgundy Horse hide $100 upgrade (yikes)
Flat box

8-10 week wait. I can’t wait but my BH and SJ will hold me over. Now I’m not even sure if I need anything during their next sale.

I have also wondered if I had this last pair made in an E, they would likely be a great fit.