• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

chicagoan2016

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
1,590
Reaction score
556
All good points...you might also search for "clicking".

It has been posted before, but I will just leave this here...

Who knows more about CXL than Horween? All of the pictures in the link above are considered "acceptable" by them... the question is, would they be acceptable to you on a $600 pair of boots?

There is no doubt that some people like @JustinW and @Neognosis won the CXL "lottery" but many others did not.

The question you need to ask yourself is: "Do you feel lucky?"
That was very helpful helpful Sir, I need to swing by Horween once this virus is over.
So Horse Hide should be my first choice for my first pair of White's?

Thank you
 

Neognosis

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Messages
436
Reaction score
398
ok, one at a time:

I can't tell if the chromexcel on the whites's (which are british tan on mine) is any thicker than what AE uses. It's really not the same leather. Maybe British tan is technically a cxl, but they are not just the same leathers in different colors. They are distinctly different in feel and behavior.

White's vs. Allen Edmonds: This depends on your use. My Higgins Mills are nowhere near as sturdy, heavy, protective as my White's. Allen Edmonds are a fantastic dress or casual boot (depending on model and leather), but they are not a "work" or even real "motorcycle" boot. They blow anything else under 500 dollars out of the water, no question. But they are in a different game altogether than the White's. My semi dress boots are tanks. They weigh a lot more then the AEs, they look cruder and much less refined, they are not finished as well. But they are indestructible. I would not hestiate to work a day stacking rocks or climbing all over communication installations in third world countries. (and I have.). I would not expect my AEs to survive this kind of treatment.

But I would not wear my White's to dinner with my wife. I'd wear my AE Higgins Mills or Sullivan Streets for that though, no doubt.


Totally different boots.
 

Legal Eagles

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
1,231
Reaction score
2,332
So Horse Hide should be my first choice for my first pair of White's?
Bless you my son... you have attained wisdom, knowledge, and harmony with life, the universe, and everything...

Anyone who reads this thread knows my feelings on horsehide (and by extension shell)...

1600263352066.png
 
Last edited:

Patek

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
4,063
Reaction score
1,755
Anyone who reads this thread knows my feelings on horsehide (and by extension shell)...
Bless you my son... you have attained knowledge and harmony with life, the universe, and everything...
View attachment 1459500

I started with shell boots but mainly dress. I'm not getting into more work boots and am having fun playing with CXL and horse hide.
 

chicagoan2016

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
1,590
Reaction score
556
ok, one at a time:

I can't tell if the chromexcel on the whites's (which are british tan on mine) is any thicker than what AE uses. It's really not the same leather. Maybe British tan is technically a cxl, but they are not just the same leathers in different colors. They are distinctly different in feel and behavior.

White's vs. Allen Edmonds: This depends on your use. My Higgins Mills are nowhere near as sturdy, heavy, protective as my White's. Allen Edmonds are a fantastic dress or casual boot (depending on model and leather), but they are not a "work" or even real "motorcycle" boot. They blow anything else under 500 dollars out of the water, no question. But they are in a different game altogether than the White's. My semi dress boots are tanks. They weigh a lot more then the AEs, they look cruder and much less refined, they are not finished as well. But they are indestructible. I would not hestiate to work a day stacking rocks or climbing all over communication installations in third world countries. (and I have.). I would not expect my AEs to survive this kind of treatment.

But I would not wear my White's to dinner with my wife. I'd wear my AE Higgins Mills or Sullivan Streets for that though, no doubt.


Totally different boots.
Thank you Sir, I feel like you are my long lost brother lol I am moving towards White's but I have over ten pairs of AE boots, 3 HMs and two Sullivan streets (and a few other models) and I got all of them for around $200 each.
I might have to thin out the AE collection in the future.
 

fushaw

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
57
Reaction score
74
That was very helpful helpful Sir, I need to swing by Horween once this virus is over.
So Horse Hide should be my first choice for my first pair of White's?

Thank you

If you're willing to pay the premium or wait for another HH free upgrade sale (who knows when that is going to happen again. Kyle told me they almost drained Horween of their HH stock because of all the orders), then I say go for it! Mine should arrive tomorrow and I'm admittedly stoked.

That being said, me being new to the PNW boot game, I probably would've gone distressed smooth or some other leather for my first pair if the HH wasn't a free upgrade.

My next pair is either going to be distressed smooth or I'm going to pony up and get a pair of #8 Shell boots and watch my wallet weep.
 

Legal Eagles

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
1,231
Reaction score
2,332
Let’s not forget the humble dress brown leather as well. It might be the base option, but that is for good reason.
Best base leather they offer... if I could have only one base leather for the rest of my life it would be brown dress... simply superb... a classic for a reason!
 

Luscombe

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
394
Reaction score
797
Thank you Sir, I feel like you are my long lost brother lol I am moving towards White's but I have over ten pairs of AE boots, 3 HMs and two Sullivan streets (and a few other models) and I got all of them for around $200 each.
I might have to thin out the AE collection in the future.
I thought I would weigh in on this as I used to live in Chicago and it is near to where I live now.
I have been a long time AE fan. Started wearing them around 1995 because there was a local B & M Store and they came in narrow widths and fit my feet. I have many pairs of oxfords, Waltons, and other discontinued styles. None of them offer the arch support that some of the Whites Boots provide.

I have a high arch and this is important to me. I work in an office doing construction management and sales. I am in the field on job sites 20%-30% of the time, marketing and with clients 10%-20% and in the office the balance. Shoe/boot selection for me needs to be comfortable first then protective and business presentable, depending upon how my day is scheduled.

Whites Boots provide good options. I have a pair of Semi Dress in dress brown leather being recrafted since 7/2/20 (patiently waiting). They will come back to me in a B width, with a Dark Brown French Calf medallion cap and backstay and a commando sole. This will provide me with the perfect all-around boot for my year-round use in the midwest. Dressy enough for client meetings, protective and durable for construction sites, and a high arch for comfort.

I also have a pair of White MP's in horsehide, love that leather, but they do not much arch support. The HH leather is closer grained than cow and will become more supple as it breaks in. The arch support is more like my AE's Daltons but the boots are of a higher quality. I absolutely hate the Danite soles on the MP's, worst decision ever for me, should have gone with a commando sole. They will get resoled next year.

You are on the right path moving from AE to Whites. Whites are more expensive but worth every penny IMO. Whites Main Street boots are similar in style to AE boots at a price point of $370. So if you want to get close to the AE's in looks with a better product that is made in USA, you might choose them. They do not have much arch support though. There is a super-secret last being developed to provide arch support in that style boot but has not been released yet (5050 last). Kyle is said to be wearing a beta pair of these now. When this comes out I will probably order a pair in HH more for an office-client use.

The current arch support options you have include the Semi Dress, Bounty Hunter, Smoke Jumper and Farmer Rancher in pretty much any configuration with almost any leather and options you want. You should start at the beginning of this thread and read through every post. That education will be priceless and will save you $.

The first step for you is to touch base with Bakers and get a tracing to them of your feet. You will want to determine which last is best for your feet, then your width and size and then look at the boot models, features and leathers. BTW, this is a marathon and not a sprint. Orders can take several months to get filled. These boots will last you 20-30 years for the use you have in mind and they will run $500-$800 or more depending upon features and leathers. Do not be in a hurry and do your homework.

For me, I just love the BH in HH, arch support, beautiful leather, great look, but am having a hard time figuring out how much I would actually wear them. I get more use out of the MP (Service boot style) but it has limited arch support. The Semi Dress style with some accents fills that happy medium for me for now. I'll post photos here when I get them back for Bakers.

Good luck on your journey.
 

chicagoan2016

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
1,590
Reaction score
556
I thought I would weigh in on this as I used to live in Chicago and it is near to where I live now.
I have been a long time AE fan. Started wearing them around 1995 because there was a local B & M Store and they came in narrow widths and fit my feet. I have many pairs of oxfords, Waltons, and other discontinued styles. None of them offer the arch support that some of the Whites Boots provide.

I have a high arch and this is important to me. I work in an office doing construction management and sales. I am in the field on job sites 20%-30% of the time, marketing and with clients 10%-20% and in the office the balance. Shoe/boot selection for me needs to be comfortable first then protective and business presentable, depending upon how my day is scheduled.

Whites Boots provide good options. I have a pair of Semi Dress in dress brown leather being recrafted since 7/2/20 (patiently waiting). They will come back to me in a B width, with a Dark Brown French Calf medallion cap and backstay and a commando sole. This will provide me with the perfect all-around boot for my year-round use in the midwest. Dressy enough for client meetings, protective and durable for construction sites, and a high arch for comfort.

I also have a pair of White MP's in horsehide, love that leather, but they do not much arch support. The HH leather is closer grained than cow and will become more supple as it breaks in. The arch support is more like my AE's Daltons but the boots are of a higher quality. I absolutely hate the Danite soles on the MP's, worst decision ever for me, should have gone with a commando sole. They will get resoled next year.

You are on the right path moving from AE to Whites. Whites are more expensive but worth every penny IMO. Whites Main Street boots are similar in style to AE boots at a price point of $370. So if you want to get close to the AE's in looks with a better product that is made in USA, you might choose them. They do not have much arch support though. There is a super-secret last being developed to provide arch support in that style boot but has not been released yet (5050 last). Kyle is said to be wearing a beta pair of these now. When this comes out I will probably order a pair in HH more for an office-client use.

The current arch support options you have include the Semi Dress, Bounty Hunter, Smoke Jumper and Farmer Rancher in pretty much any configuration with almost any leather and options you want. You should start at the beginning of this thread and read through every post. That education will be priceless and will save you $.

The first step for you is to touch base with Bakers and get a tracing to them of your feet. You will want to determine which last is best for your feet, then your width and size and then look at the boot models, features and leathers. BTW, this is a marathon and not a sprint. Orders can take several months to get filled. These boots will last you 20-30 years for the use you have in mind and they will run $500-$800 or more depending upon features and leathers. Do not be in a hurry and do your homework.

For me, I just love the BH in HH, arch support, beautiful leather, great look, but am having a hard time figuring out how much I would actually wear them. I get more use out of the MP (Service boot style) but it has limited arch support. The Semi Dress style with some accents fills that happy medium for me for now. I'll post photos here when I get them back for Bakers.

Good luck on your journey.
I am glad to hear from a fellow Chicagoan.
Extremely helpful reply, can't thank you enough.
I am wearing my AE Rainiers today and they have slightly better arch support than the rest of AE boots, may be, because of the commando soles?
I work in the office (Software Engineer) pretty much 100% of the time. I wear jeans and boots but I do keep a suit and some cheap dress boots (from Aldo : ) ) for the very rare meetings that I have to attend with the clients. I could probably use my Daltons for meetings.
I have been looking at White's website and Bakers and I think my first pair of White's should be BH or the limited series Okanogan in dark brown wax flesh.
This might sound funny but I have been wearing my AE HMs (camo) and AE long branches for my daily walk because they provide better arch support than sneakers lol.
I am going to try to read this thread as much as I could and will most probably settle for BH in HH like you mentioned above.
Have a great day!
 

montanamike

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2020
Messages
459
Reaction score
549
I am glad to hear from a fellow Chicagoan.
Extremely helpful reply, can't thank you enough.
I am wearing my AE Rainiers today and they have slightly better arch support than the rest of AE boots, may be, because of the commando soles?
I work in the office (Software Engineer) pretty much 100% of the time. I wear jeans and boots but I do keep a suit and some cheap dress boots (from Aldo : ) ) for the very rare meetings that I have to attend with the clients. I could probably use my Daltons for meetings.
I have been looking at White's website and Bakers and I think my first pair of White's should be BH or the limited series Okanogan in dark brown wax flesh.
This might sound funny but I have been wearing my AE HMs (camo) and AE long branches for my daily walk because they provide better arch support than sneakers lol.
I am going to try to read this thread as much as I could and will most probably settle for BH in HH like you mentioned above.
Have a great day!

I also work in software (in an environment super casual even by tech standards). My Whites / Nicks collections is pretty large but if I had pare down to 3, either a dress brown bounty hunter or semi dress would make the cut. I havent yet added horsehide but I intend to at some point. Settling is certainly not the word I would use to a horsehide BH.

Last weekend, I had the opportunity to handle the waxed flesh Okanogan and it is a nice looking boot. Waxed flesh (to me) falls far more casual which is a non issue in my place of work. While my olive waxed flesh bounty hunter wouldn't make my top 3, I very much like it so far but havent yet tested it through a PNW winter which the reasoning for adding them. I suspect use in crusted snow would transform the look of waxed flesh very quickly.
 

Netvine

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2018
Messages
178
Reaction score
199
I also work in software (in an environment super casual even by tech standards). My Whites / Nicks collections is pretty large but if I had pare down to 3, either a dress brown bounty hunter or semi dress would make the cut. I havent yet added horsehide but I intend to at some point. Settling is certainly not the word I would use to a horsehide BH.

Last weekend, I had the opportunity to handle the waxed flesh Okanogan and it is a nice looking boot. Waxed flesh (to me) falls far more casual which is a non issue in my place of work. While my olive waxed flesh bounty hunter wouldn't make my top 3, I very much like it so far but havent yet tested it through a PNW winter which the reasoning for adding them. I suspect use in crusted snow would transform the look of waxed flesh very quickly.

Whats your opinion of the Okanogan sole!? Did it seem useful? How did it compare to the 100 and all that in your opinion? We must know please.
 

montanamike

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2020
Messages
459
Reaction score
549
Whats your opinion of the Okanogan sole!? Did it seem useful? How did it compare to the 100 and all that in your opinion? We must know please.
My inspection was cursory. I don't really have an opinion either way. More generally, I thought the dark brown waxes flesh looked good but I tracking some semi dress and was focused on that.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.3%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 61 39.1%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 10.9%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.3%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 17.9%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,207
Messages
10,579,332
Members
223,892
Latest member
cprice
Top