Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[klank74]

I've waited a good 5 or 6 years for this moment, I can stand to wait longer ? I'll make sure they fit right.

I did tell Kyle I was trying to decide between the bounty hunter and semi dress, so maybe that's why he sized me for the 55 last. I've decided to go with the semi dress for my first pair. I did make it clear to him that I'm ok with the 38 swing last ( I was secretly hoping he'd recommend it, I'm one of the weirdos that likes the look of it) as well if he feels that would work better.

We'll see, I'm going to call and place my order today and request a try on pair.

 

[paulraphael]

Is there a good diagram anywhere for how white's hand-welted construction works? I've seen generic diagrams on some sites but none of them look similar to White's. Is there an industry-standard name for how they do it?

 

[klank74]

Is there a good diagram anywhere for how white's hand-welted construction works? I've seen generic diagrams on some sites but none of them look similar to White's. Is there an industry-standard name for how they do it?

If you search for a guy named Wranglerstar on youtube, he did a 2 part video series where him and his wife got to tour the Nicks boots facility. I'm pretty sure Nicks uses the same style welt on their hand welted stuff. But they showed every step of the boots being built.

 

[paulraphael]

If you search for a guy named Wranglerstar on youtube, he did a 2 part video series where him and his wife got to tour the Nicks boots facility. I'm pretty sure Nicks uses the same style welt on their hand welted stuff. But they showed every step of the boots being built.

Great tip. Those videos are excellent. Turns out the construction is technically called a "rolled Norwegian welt," which I then searched for. It's indeed been mentioned earlier in this thread, so not news to everyone here.

Here's a diagram showing the slight differences between the Nick's and White's version (poached from the Nick's thread):

That's Nick's on the left, White's on the right. Same basic idea.

I'd never heard of this construction before. Basically a Norwegian welt, with an extra row of stitching, but the Norwegian stitch hidden.

Here's the video where they show the welting. The whole 4-part series is really good if you can get past all the giggling.

 

[klank74]

well i did it guys...after 6 years of saving money and dreaming of what build I'd like, I finally placed an order with Baker's for my first pair of Whites! What everyone on here has said about Baker's and their staff is 100% true. They are so nice and helpful, even now while they are running on a skeleton crew. The first time I called, both Kyle and Brandon were out or in meetings, but I had the pleasure of talking to one of their female employees. I apologize, I forget her name, but she was so pleasant to talk to, seemed very knowledgeable, and seemed more than happy to spend a moment of her time talking to me. Brandon returned my call, was very helpful, answered my many questions, and took my order. I could have went on for awhile, but I was trying to respect his time as, again, I know their understaffed right now. Its been a real process with this whole Covid thing going on right now. I also can't forget to mention Kyle. He responded to the majority of my many emails and was very helpful. I'm currently waiting delivery of a try on pair and I'm excited just to get my hands on them!

Anyways, heres my build. Let me know what you guys think.

Custom Classic Semi Dress by White's Boots
Last: Standard (55)
Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Dress
Upper Leather: Brown Dress
Leather Liner: Cream
Pull Loops: No Thanks
Toe Cap: Leather Toe Cap ( I requested the Vintage (MP) style 4 rows of stitching)
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Hardware: All Antique Eyes
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Heel Lifts: Standard
Heel Base: Standard (curved)
Sole: Commando MIni Lug Half Sole
Sole Trim: Standard Trim (Double Row Stitch)

I also requested Khaki stitching for the uppers and toe caps.

 

[Legal Eagles]

well i did it guys...after 6 years of saving money and dreaming of what build I'd like, I finally placed an order with Baker's for my first pair of Whites! What everyone on here has said about Baker's and their staff is 100% true. They are so nice and helpful, even now while they are running on a skeleton crew. The first time I called, both Kyle and Brandon were out or in meetings, but I had the pleasure of talking to one of their female employees. I apologize, I forget her name, but she was so pleasant to talk to, seemed very knowledgeable, and seemed more than happy to spend a moment of her time talking to me. Brandon returned my call, was very helpful, answered my many questions, and took my order. I could have went on for awhile, but I was trying to respect his time as, again, I know their understaffed right now. Its been a real process with this whole Covid thing going on right now. I also can't forget to mention Kyle. He responded to the majority of my many emails and was very helpful. I'm currently waiting delivery of a try on pair and I'm excited just to get my hands on them!

Anyways, heres my build. Let me know what you guys think.

Custom Classic Semi Dress by White's Boots
Last: Standard (55)
Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Dress
Upper Leather: Brown Dress
Leather Liner: Cream
Pull Loops: No Thanks
Toe Cap: Leather Toe Cap ( I requested the Vintage (MP) style 4 rows of stitching)
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Hardware: All Antique Eyes
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Heel Lifts: Standard
Heel Base: Standard (curved)
Sole: Commando MIni Lug Half Sole
Sole Trim: Standard Trim (Double Row Stitch)

I also requested Khaki stitching for the uppers and toe caps.

That is a great first build... even if you come to own 20 pairs of White's, this one will always be a classic... I applaud you for sticking to the old standards in your first build... there is a reason White's offers these default options... they just work harmoniously together to make a perfect boot.

My first White's were similar to yours, and despite buying and selling several other pairs over the years, I still wear them often in my rotation... a classic is a classic for a reason!

 

[montanamike]

well i did it guys...after 6 years of saving money and dreaming of what build I'd like, I finally placed an order with Baker's for my first pair of Whites! What everyone on here has said about Baker's and their staff is 100% true. They are so nice and helpful, even now while they are running on a skeleton crew. The first time I called, both Kyle and Brandon were out or in meetings, but I had the pleasure of talking to one of their female employees. I apologize, I forget her name, but she was so pleasant to talk to, seemed very knowledgeable, and seemed more than happy to spend a moment of her time talking to me. Brandon returned my call, was very helpful, answered my many questions, and took my order. I could have went on for awhile, but I was trying to respect his time as, again, I know their understaffed right now. Its been a real process with this whole Covid thing going on right now. I also can't forget to mention Kyle. He responded to the majority of my many emails and was very helpful. I'm currently waiting delivery of a try on pair and I'm excited just to get my hands on them!

Anyways, heres my build. Let me know what you guys think.

Custom Classic Semi Dress by White's Boots
Last: Standard (55)
Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Dress
Upper Leather: Brown Dress
Leather Liner: Cream
Pull Loops: No Thanks
Toe Cap: Leather Toe Cap ( I requested the Vintage (MP) style 4 rows of stitching)
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Hardware: All Antique Eyes
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Heel Lifts: Standard
Heel Base: Standard (curved)
Sole: Commando MIni Lug Half Sole
Sole Trim: Standard Trim (Double Row Stitch)

I also requested Khaki stitching for the uppers and toe caps.

That is a dandy build. I hope you like the khaki stitching as much as I do.

 

[klank74]

That is a great first build... even if you come to own 20 pairs of White's, this one will always be a classic... I applaud you for sticking to the old standards in your first build... there is a reason White's offers these default options... they just work harmoniously together to make a perfect boot.

My first White's were similar to yours, and despite buying and selling several other pairs over the years, I still wear them often in my rotation... a classic is a classic for a reason!

Thank you for the kind words. Means a lot coming from someone with a white's collection such as yours. I've seen a lot of two tone builds that really caught my eye, but in the end, I felt something like that didn't really fit my personality or the way I dress. I'm just a simple t shirt and jeans guy. I don't really have the money or the physique to pull off the fancier stuff ?

I knew from the first time I saw pics of dress brown and the way it ages, that it had to be on my first build. Once I saw pics of dress brown with khaki stitching, I liked the look and thought that would make them just interesting enough without being to flashy.

I really like the look of their lace to toe boots, kept going between them and standard bounty hunters with a toe cap, but the look of the semi dress with the internal heel counter kept nagging at me and eventually won out. I figure there will be other builds in the future and I'll get my lace to toe then. Probably on my work boots I hope to order after the next tax season.

 

[klank74]

That is a dandy build. I hope you like the khaki stitching as much as I do.

Thank you! Yours are what inspired me to request it. I think I'll enjoy it. My current boots are a pair of thorogood moc toes, they use white contrasting stitching and I've always liked the look of that.

 

[The Nid Hog]

I've been reading posts here for a while as I put together my ideas for a pair of boots, so I thought it was time to check in. I'm looking for a pair of boots that I can wear around the office (we're casual), but will also work in the field. I had been planning to buy a pair of Cutters in Distressed RO. That's still the general look that I want, but now I'm starting to think about other possibilities. My current plan is to go with a pair of Bounty Hunters in 7", lace-to-toe, logger heel. I'm still thinking about the kind of sole I want. My experience with soles like the Vibram 100 is that they look the part, but they tend to get filled up with mud. Short of going with something more tactical that won't look right with the boot, I might just opt for the 430.

I know that oil tan leather is the most durable, and that's definitely a consideration for me. That having been said, I think that the British Tan and the Brown Dress both look amazing, and I am thinking about going with one or the other. Any suggestions about durability?

Finally, I reluctantly passed on the Father's Day Sale because I haven't completely decided on what I want. Anybody know when Baker's or White's will have their next big sale?

 

[Legal Eagles]

I've been reading posts here for a while as I put together my ideas for a pair of boots, so I thought it was time to check in.

Welcome to the forum!

I'm looking for a pair of boots that I can wear around the office (we're casual), but will also work in the field.

Office casual is easy, but the field work bit needs a little more explanation... what kind of field work are we talking about? Construction on gravel and concrete, surveying in the woods, HVAC, tank farm? It may impact our advice.

I had been planning to buy a pair of Cutters in Distressed RO. That's still the general look that I want, but now I'm starting to think about other possibilities. My current plan is to go with a pair of Bounty Hunters in 7", lace-to-toe, logger heel.

Yep, that would be a Cutter but one inch higher in the shaft...

I'm still thinking about the kind of sole I want. My experience with soles like the Vibram 100 is that they look the part, but they tend to get filled up with mud. Short of going with something more tactical that won't look right with the boot, I might just opt for the 430.

Unless you are a logger or wilderness firefighter the Vibram 100 is overkill, especially for a boot that may see use in an office albeit a casual one. If this is also to be a field boot, then I would suggest either the Vibram 700 or the 430... I think you will want the full length rubber protection, uninterrupted heel stack be damned. The commando leaves exposed leather, and the 269 is thin and lacks grip. All the soles have their uses, but aesthetics aside the 700 and 430 are the most versatile IMHO

I know that oil tan leather is the most durable, and that's definitely a consideration for me. That having been said, I think that the British Tan and the Brown Dress both look amazing, and I am thinking about going with one or the other. Any suggestions about durability?

For a combo office/field boot (again depending on the nature of the field work), I would avoid British Tan... it is CXL (sort of) and my feelings on CXL are well known... especially on a field boot which may see hard use.

The other options are tough because you want the oil tan to be roughout... this is definitely the toughest way to go, but it will never look as good in casual settings as the brown dress. The brown dress is certainly tough enough for a field/casual boot, but leans more toward casual. It can take a beating and get scuffed, and yet be brought back to a mirror shine (if that is your thing)... or leave it alone and let it age naturally...

This is why I love brown dress... no other leather is as versatile... it can be all things to all people...

Are you committed to lace to toe? The Brown Dress looks really nice with a toe cap!

Finally, I reluctantly passed on the Father's Day Sale because I haven't completely decided on what I want. Anybody know when Baker's or White's will have their next big sale?

Sorry, I don't... I seem to recall a 4th of July sale last year, but I could be misremembering...

In any case, welcome and good luck!

 

[montanamike]

I've been reading posts here for a while as I put together my ideas for a pair of boots, so I thought it was time to check in. I'm looking for a pair of boots that I can wear around the office (we're casual), but will also work in the field. I had been planning to buy a pair of Cutters in Distressed RO. That's still the general look that I want, but now I'm starting to think about other possibilities. My current plan is to go with a pair of Bounty Hunters in 7", lace-to-toe, logger heel. I'm still thinking about the kind of sole I want. My experience with soles like the Vibram 100 is that they look the part, but they tend to get filled up with mud. Short of going with something more tactical that won't look right with the boot, I might just opt for the 430.

I know that oil tan leather is the most durable, and that's definitely a consideration for me. That having been said, I think that the British Tan and the Brown Dress both look amazing, and I am thinking about going with one or the other. Any suggestions about durability?

Finally, I reluctantly passed on the Father's Day Sale because I haven't completely decided on what I want. Anybody know when Baker's or White's will have their next big sale?

White's Smoke Jumper Boots - Brown Dress - East West Apparel

These Brown Dress Smoke Jumpers are about as classic a pair of White’s boots as you will get. The Brown dress starts with a shine (which can be kept with care) but gives way with wear to a really nice worn brown undertone. The Original Smoke Jumper Boots by White’s were designed for and are...

eastwestapparel.co.uk

If you've not seen this, it gives a good idea of what brown dress would look like in a ltt rig. (I really like it)

 

[Luscombe]

My recommendation would be the SD in Brown Dress. I have a pair of those (2yrs) and a pair of MP Sherman. I am a construction professional, mostly office work, client meetings and jobsite visits.

The SD's are perfect for the office and the Brown Dress leather will take a beating in the field and keep looking great with just a little care. Wipe the dirt off with a damp cloth at the end of the day and brush them once a week. Once the comfort arch is broken in, the boots will become the most comfortable pair you own. The Vibram 700 is a perfect sole for office field use.

My MP's are one step dressier IMO, with HH leather, do not have the comfort arch and I am reluctant to beat them up like the SD's. I wear them in the office and when out with clients. They are not as comfortable as the SD's.

I have considered 6" Bounty Hunters but I just do not need a bigger boot. The SD's do everything I need. That said they are not a lightweight shoe. You can't go wrong with a pair of SD's. My next pair of SD's will be tricked out with a medallion cap toe and maybe a Black Cherry or British tan leather. With that makeup, the leather will have to be treated more gently.

 

[montanamike]

Finally, I reluctantly passed on the Father's Day Sale because I haven't completely decided on what I want. Anybody know when Baker's or White's will have their next big sale?
[/QUOTE]

Bakers had their anniversary sale last year a week or two after the 4th of July. If I remember right, semi dress were on sale at that time and possibly others.

 

[Legal Eagles]

My MP's ... are not as comfortable as the SD's.

Everyone's feet are different, but that has been my experience too... the new lasts are nice and all, but the old standbys 38 Swing (A+), 55 (A-), and 4811(B+) fit me better.

Almost like White's knew what they were doing and had the arch support, fit, and comfort all figured out decades ago and we are learning that sometimes the old ways cannot be improved upon...

Luckily White's will build ones MP on the 55 last if you ask!