Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[wordfool]

Unfortunately, I'm not sure I have much for Kyle to go off of...None of my boots truly "fit" me. I have some that come close. I'm gonna email them though and see what he thinks.

but how and why they don’t fit you properly is valuable information, too. For example, I told him that Red Wing size X fit me length wise and in the ball of the foot but had heel slippage, particularly on one foot, even when tightly laced.

 

[iamntbatman]

I'll be 39 next month and I've literally spent my entire life wearing footwear that doesn't fit me right, so I'm definitely putting the fit before looks. I do like the look of a boot built on the swing last, but almost all the ones i've seen are a smaller size. I'm a little worried about how they would look in my size, but, it is what it is, and like you said, maybe Kyle will decide something else will work better for me.

The more I think about it, I think I'm going to go with the dress brown. I've lusted after that leather for so long, I think I would kick myself if I went with the waxed flesh first. Hopefully the wf will be available for years to come. And thank you, the commando sole is the other one I was thinking of. Do you have that on a double mid sole? I thought with the layer of leather built into the commando sole, a double midsole on top of that would make them to thick to stitch through?

Well actually, when you get the commando or other half soles, it comes with an extra midsole by default. But, I believe with certain outsole options you can get a real "double midsole" for, in effect, a triple midsole. My Bounty Hunters don't have that - just a standard single midsole plus the second midsole the commando is stitched to.

 

[klank74]

Well actually, when you get the commando or other half soles, it comes with an extra midsole by default. But, I believe with certain outsole options you can get a real "double midsole" for, in effect, a triple midsole. My Bounty Hunters don't have that - just a standard single midsole plus the second midsole the commando is stitched to.

ok, yeah, thats what I was trying to get at. I know the commando comes with essentially a second midsole stictched to it. I thought you meant you had a double midsole, plus a "third" one that the commando outsole is stitched to. I'm leaning more towards the commando right now vs. the composition half sole because we usually see some snow and slush around here in the winter time and the composition (v-bar) half sole doesn't look like it would do all that well. I realize most don't recommend a half sole for winter use, but I think I'm willing to sacrifice a little for the look of the unbroken heel stack.

 

[PACostag]

@ZenSilk any use of those beautiful veg tans yet?

 

[Woodtroll]

Yup, I understand what your saying about a longer boot flexing easier. Since I'm on concrete all day, I'm planning on going with the honey vibram outsole for the extra cushioning, but I was also thinking that might help with the flexibility too.

I've never worn the honey Vibram, but I'm not sure you'd need the double midsole with that outsole, since it is basically the 100 sole. I've found the 100 provides quite a bit more "cushion" than the "flatter" soles, although I didn't realize how much until I got my Stockmans with a 430 outsole and single midsole which felt "thin" and hard by comparison. And they say that the honey Vibram has even more "cushion", although it does wear faster as a result.

The double midsole, plus the 100 outsole, is going to be pretty substantial. I'd put that on the list to ask Kyle about - he knows his stuff and may be able to lend some perspective.

 

[Woodtroll]

My Red Dog Smokejumpers, ordered 20 April, arrived yesterday.

Custom White's Smoke Jumper
Last: Standard
Toe Vamp Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Upper (Shaft) Leather: Red Dog Oiled
Counter Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Toe Cap Leather Color: Does Not Apply - NO Toe Cap
Leather Liner: No Thanks
Toe Cap: No Thanks
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Steel Toe: No Thanks
Hardware: Brass Eyes & Hooks
Top: Cut Top (standard)
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Sole: Vibram 100 Lug
Lace Design: Plain Toe
Height: 10"
Size - Length: 11.5
Size - Width: E
Closed instep
Change top grommet to hook

I was surprised by how much contrast in color the rough-out leather gave, but I'm sure it will darken with a little oil. When I ordered these I was concerned about how rough the nap might be, but the nap on these boots is very smooth and consistent. I'm very pleased with these, and they fit well right out of the box. I think they're going to be a great work boot!

 

[Sledge42]

My Red Dog Smokejumpers, ordered 20 April, arrived yesterday.

Custom White's Smoke Jumper
Last: Standard
Toe Vamp Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Upper (Shaft) Leather: Red Dog Oiled
Counter Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Toe Cap Leather Color: Does Not Apply - NO Toe Cap
Leather Liner: No Thanks
Toe Cap: No Thanks
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Steel Toe: No Thanks
Hardware: Brass Eyes & Hooks
Top: Cut Top (standard)
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Sole: Vibram 100 Lug
Lace Design: Plain Toe
Height: 10"
Size - Length: 11.5
Size - Width: E
Closed instep
Change top grommet to hook

I was surprised by how much contrast in color the rough-out leather gave, but I'm sure it will darken with a little oil. When I ordered these I was concerned about how rough the nap might be, but the nap on these boots is very smooth and consistent. I'm very pleased with these, and they fit well right out of the box. I think they're going to be a great work boot!

View attachment 1393775 View attachment 1393776 View attachment 1393777

That gets me excited for my Red Dog work boots coming!!

Maybe I'll get mine this week? We shall see .

 

[miggyramone]

My Red Dog Smokejumpers, ordered 20 April, arrived yesterday.

Custom White's Smoke Jumper
Last: Standard
Toe Vamp Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Upper (Shaft) Leather: Red Dog Oiled
Counter Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Toe Cap Leather Color: Does Not Apply - NO Toe Cap
Leather Liner: No Thanks
Toe Cap: No Thanks
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Steel Toe: No Thanks
Hardware: Brass Eyes & Hooks
Top: Cut Top (standard)
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Sole: Vibram 100 Lug
Lace Design: Plain Toe
Height: 10"
Size - Length: 11.5
Size - Width: E
Closed instep
Change top grommet to hook

I was surprised by how much contrast in color the rough-out leather gave, but I'm sure it will darken with a little oil. When I ordered these I was concerned about how rough the nap might be, but the nap on these boots is very smooth and consistent. I'm very pleased with these, and they fit well right out of the box. I think they're going to be a great work boot!

View attachment 1393775 View attachment 1393776 View attachment 1393777

Wow! Red Dog rough out looks fantastic! Very handsome boots. Congrats!

 

[Patek]

My Red Dog Smokejumpers, ordered 20 April, arrived yesterday.

Custom White's Smoke Jumper
Last: Standard
Toe Vamp Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Upper (Shaft) Leather: Red Dog Oiled
Counter Leather: Red Dog Rough Out
Toe Cap Leather Color: Does Not Apply - NO Toe Cap
Leather Liner: No Thanks
Toe Cap: No Thanks
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Steel Toe: No Thanks
Hardware: Brass Eyes & Hooks
Top: Cut Top (standard)
Midsole: Single
Edge: Brown
Sole: Vibram 100 Lug
Lace Design: Plain Toe
Height: 10"
Size - Length: 11.5
Size - Width: E
Closed instep
Change top grommet to hook

I was surprised by how much contrast in color the rough-out leather gave, but I'm sure it will darken with a little oil. When I ordered these I was concerned about how rough the nap might be, but the nap on these boots is very smooth and consistent. I'm very pleased with these, and they fit well right out of the box. I think they're going to be a great work boot!

View attachment 1393775 View attachment 1393776 View attachment 1393777

Oh my dog!

 

[klank74]

Those look great! I think I'm going to go with red dog for my future work boots as well, but I'll probably go with a full smooth finish. I'm thinking it'll be easier to clean grease and oil off of the smooth finish than the rough out. Is the red dog as thick as the other oil tan leathers?

 

[Woodtroll]

Those look great! I think I'm going to go with red dog for my future work boots as well, but I'll probably go with a full smooth finish. I'm thinking it'll be easier to clean grease and oil off of the smooth finish than the rough out. Is the red dog as thick as the other oil tan leathers?

Thanks for the comments, folks, I appreciate them. But of course the credit goes to White's.

Yes, Klank, the red dog is the same leather as the brown and black oil tan, just a different color. And I do believe oil and grease would clean easier off the smooth leather, but I have a pair of black roughouts that my employer bought me (they are N***'s but still very good boots ), and the roughout has waxed down to almost a solid surface, sort of like the waxed flesh leathers look. I'm trying these roughouts to see if they will do the same thing eventually.

 

[Woodtroll]

That gets me excited for my Red Dog work boots coming!!

Maybe I'll get mine this week? We shall see .

I hope so! Good luck!

 

[Sledge42]

I hope so! Good luck!

My make-up is very close to yours with the exception of:
8" vs 10"
All Smooth vs Combo Smooth and Rough Out
Had a Safety Toe Installed

I got mine on the 100 Lug as you did
Also got the dual row stitch.
Even the same Size and Width! NOICE!!
I even ask for the top to be a hook. I have this on all my custom boots and love it vs an eyelet.

Looking forward to this build for certain!

 

[Legal Eagles]

Heel to toe, I measure a 13, but my arch measurement is 14.5 A/B (I have short toes).

Based on this, it sounds like you know your way around a Brannock Device. My humble suggestions for a first build would be as follows:

1) Go to a good, reputable local shoe store - get the most experienced salesperson to measure you on the Brannock. Take pictures. Get someone else to do the full foot tracings and measurements!

2) Send a set to Kyle and to White's for dual opinions. First ask which last is best for your foot shape - ignoring for a minute length and width. Then ask what size they would recommend in that last. If the two are close, go with the larger size. If they are not close, go with Kyle's recommendation. Do not throw common sense out the window. If your Brannock is 13EE, don't let anyone tell you you need a 10.5C for example.

3) Brown Dress is a perfect leather for your first build... it is the most versatile leather White's offers, and is a classic... even if you have 20 pairs some day, you will always have room for brown dress.

4) On a boot your size, go with the double midsole and a commando sole if you want the uninterrupted heel stack, or a 430 or 700 or 269 if you don't care. Although I am a fan of double leather, don't try to get too fancy on your first build... stick to the tried and true... there is a reason the classics are classics.

5) Most of all, keep it simple for your first build...if you decide you like them, there will be many more to come... trust me.

 

[klank74]

I can't wait to see yours. When I get work boots, I'm going with pretty much the same build, but with double midsole and the honey vibram 100. I might try lace to toe on that build too.