Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[wordfool]

I seem to recall that @sambam mentioned that the commando half lug soles had been updated to a very long wearing rubber compound. I have them on my triple sole smokejumpers and while they haven't had a ton of wear, the soles still look brand new.

That would be good. I checked the half soles on my new SDs and the lugs feel just as squishy as I remember on my Beckmans from a few years back, but perhaps the compound is different and squishiness is not a measure of longevity

 

[discomute]

In my total amateur opinion - when a sole is soft it gives more grip and deteriorates faster. When it is harder it won't deteriorate but also won't give as much grip. It's a physical thing so my experience is that is not much variation from this rule.

When people used to say "the 269 wears out fast" I found it interesting that people (such as Kyle) said the 430 is better for traction. I went with the 430 and I have never used the 269 but I don't find it surprising that people claim it grips better, especially on flat or wet surfaces. That is really in line with what I'd expect of a sole that wears so quickly White's were considering not stocking it.

 

[Rymanocerous]

In my total amateur opinion - when a sole is soft it gives more grip and deteriorates faster. When it is harder it won't deteriorate but also won't give as much grip. It's a physical thing so my experience is that is not much variation from this rule.

When people used to say "the 269 wears out fast" I found it interesting that people (such as Kyle) said the 430 is better for traction. I went with the 430 and I have never used the 269 but I don't find it surprising that people claim it grips better, especially on flat or wet surfaces. That is really in line with what I'd expect of a sole that wears so quickly White's were considering not stocking it.

I mean you're dead on in your assertion that softer compounds provide more grip. There is always an inverse relationship with longevity and adhesion. I don't doubt that the 269 feels stickier. Is softer with a relatively light tread pattern. However, i understand how the deep lugs of the 430 provide better traction. I see why the 269 is called the Westerner; it would be a fine upgrade to any of my cowboy boots. But for a work boot, it seems like it would get overwhelmed pretty quickly.

 

[sambam]

I seem to recall that @sambam mentioned that the commando half lug soles had been updated to a very long wearing rubber compound. I have them on my triple sole smokejumpers and while they haven't had a ton of wear, the soles still look brand new.

You are correct. The 1/2 lug and the 1/2 compo have the new compound.

 

[JustinW]

I asked over in the Wesco thread, but maybe this is wider audience for a generic question:

Brown double midsoles with a Vibram700 sole on an engineer boot: a nice little extra ruggedness on a custom boot or would I look like I belong on stage on a KISS coverband? Thanks!

Also, what are the odds of Bakers running a 10% off anytime soon?

 

[Netvine]

In my experience the heel of my 430’s provide enough anti slip. I need to be able to pivot on my toes indoor and the 430’s slide easy. However, the 430’s tread do wear down kinda quickly. When this happens i start to slip around walking up on wet grassy stuff. The 100’s would make them track mud everywhere which is a problem for me here. What Ive always wanted was a full sole just a bit more aggressive in the front than the 430, in black and not as aggressive as the 100. while still using the anti slip quabaug heel.

 

[paulraphael]

Do people find the 430 wears fast from lots of walking on pavement?

 

[miggyramone]

Maybe Red Wing uses a inferior version of the 430, but I never understood its praise. I found the 430 on my old RW's to be slippery. Especially on smooth surfaces and polished floors. Never had that issue with the 269 or 700 half sole.

 

[ThatDudeOrion]

I asked over in the Wesco thread, but maybe this is wider audience for a generic question:

Brown double midsoles with a Vibram700 sole on an engineer boot: a nice little extra ruggedness on a custom boot or would I look like I belong on stage on a KISS coverband? Thanks!

Also, what are the odds of Bakers running a 10% off anytime soon?

I’ve had a crap ton of engineer boots, from almost every current maker you could think of in USA and Japan. Double midsole is overkill, especially with a full 700 outsole in the plans, way overkill. The double midsole increases the weight and more importantly the stiffness of the boot and reduces flexibility in the midfoot during the gait, which translates to exacerbating the heel slippage problem that plagues engineer boots and other laceless pull-on designs. If you insist on the 2 leather layers, I would advise just doing a double leather outsole or whatever that option is called, where you have 1 leather midsole and 1 leather outsole, and then just put a Topy on it.

If I did another custom engineer build, personally, I would do a single leather outsole with a topy for lowest weight and maximum flexibility. One of the Engineers I haven’t been fortunate enough to try yet are the Road Champs from Mister Freedom, and at least one iteration of those had just a regular leather outsole, no half soles, etc. they look amazing to me, and I suspect they would be very comfortable.

 

[wordfool]

In my experience the heel of my 430’s provide enough anti slip. I need to be able to pivot on my toes indoor and the 430’s slide easy. However, the 430’s tread do wear down kinda quickly. When this happens i start to slip around walking up on wet grassy stuff. The 100’s would make them track mud everywhere which is a problem for me here. What Ive always wanted was a full sole just a bit more aggressive in the front than the 430, in black and not as aggressive as the 100. while still using the anti slip quabaug heel.

That's why I was asking about the Itshide version of the commando sole (used on Truman boots) that appears to split the difference between the 430 and 100. I'm not sure Vibram makes an equivalent though.

Maybe Red Wing uses a inferior version of the 430, but I never understood its praise. I found the 430 on my old RW's to be slippery. Especially on smooth surfaces and polished floors. Never had that issue with the 269 or 700 half sole.

That's been my experience as well. The front lug area might as well not exist for all the grip (or lack thereof) it often provides -- it's virtually flush with the smooth part of the outer sole, the lugs are not very tall/deep, and the very hard material makes it slippery on wet/polished surfaces.

 

[Patek]

I'm interested in getting my first pair of White's and I have read through a lot of this thread but admittedly not all 1000+ pages.

I'm very interested in the 350 Cutter on on the 55 last. However, I have not seen much talk about this boot on here. I like the almost lace to toe look and the swoopy-ness of the lines on the side. I am also drawn to the MP-Stuart and the MP-M1 which seem to get more action around here.

I was wondering if anyone here has the 350 Cutter and can provide any specific feedback or tell my I should avoid it.

I tend to like my casual boots pain toe or moc toe. I think that it because more of my dress boots are cap or brogues (I know, I have it backwards).

Also, fit. I measure 11.75, wear 12 in sneakers and 11.5 in Indys and various C&J and EG.

 

[MikeLimaPapa]

I'm interested in getting my first pair of White's and I have read through a lot of this thread but admittedly not all 1000+ pages.

I'm very interested in the 350 Cutter on on the 55 last. However, I have not seen much talk about this boot on here. I like the almost lace to toe look and the swoopy-ness of the lines on the side. I am also drawn to the MP-Stuart and the MP-M1 which seem to get more action around here.

I was wondering if anyone here has the 350 Cutter and can provide any specific feedback or tell my I should avoid it.

I tend to like my casual boots pain toe or moc toe. I think that it because more of my dress boots are cap or brogues (I know, I have it backwards).

Also, fit. I measure 11.75, wear 12 in sneakers and 11.5 in Indys and various C&J and EG.

The 350 Cutter is just a SmokeJumper on the 55 last (aka Semi-dress last), typically with a 6-8" shaft height. This is also known as a Bounty Hunter, a name used by Baker's.

 

[Patek]

The 350 Cutter is just a SmokeJumper on the 55 last (aka Semi-dress last), typically with a 6-8" shaft height. This is also known as a Bounty Hunter, a name used by Baker's.

So, this is that Bakers calls the Bounty Hunter. I had seen them mainly with cap toes so I did not realize it was the same shoe. Anyone with them in natural? I'm very interested in how that patinas.

 

[Rymanocerous]

So, this is that Bakers calls the Bounty Hunter. I had seen them mainly with cap toes so I did not realize it was the same shoe. Anyone with them in natural? I'm very interested in how that patinas.

Natural CXL will general patina to a dark brown.

 

[linafelt]

So, this is that Bakers calls the Bounty Hunter. I had seen them mainly with cap toes so I did not realize it was the same shoe. Anyone with them in natural? I'm very interested in how that patinas.

Here's an old pic of natural CXL bounty hunters (not mine) with some wear, though no toecap.