Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[hoppy_IPA]

@Whaley - whaley’s world?

 

[iamntbatman]

Loving those dark brown waxed flesh boots. Mine haven't gotten as beat up, but here's how they look after about a year:

 

[miggyramone]

Wearing my Brown Dress SD's with gym shorts and a hoodie. Quarantine life.

 

[wordfool]

I have some brown Frye WF boots (I believe Frye uses Horween WF on its USA-made boots) and the aging essentially turns them back towards rough-out, but a liberal application VSC or a careful application of SnoSeal quickly gets them back looking waxy fleshy.

I'm curious what the Black or Olive WF look like when well-aged. Being essentially a tea-core leather I can't imagine they're gonna look quite as good as the brown versions.

 

[manowar]

Saw some people asking about waxed flesh patina. These are brown waxed flesh on my wife’s 350 Crusiers with a full lug sole. About 3 months on these. She wears them any time we do backpacking trips for the ankle support. Heavy as hell but she won’t use anything else.

Looking good, though rougher than expected.

Loving those dark brown waxed flesh boots. Mine haven't gotten as beat up, but here's how they look after about a year:

Thanks for sharing.

I have some brown Frye WF boots (I believe Frye uses Horween WF on its USA-made boots) and the aging essentially turns them back towards rough-out, but a liberal application VSC or a careful application of SnoSeal quickly gets them back looking waxed fleshy.

I'm curious what the Black or Olive WF look like when well-aged. Being essentially a tea-core leather I doubt they're gonna look quite as good as the brown versions.

Agreed, I can’t find the picture now but I saw a well-used Viberg pair in olive WF and the abrasive points of the boot were an odd light green.

Dark brown seems to age well. I didn’t realize WF was basically rough-out CXL with wax.

So it makes sense that a waxy product like Sno-Seal helps refinish them.

 

[wordfool]

Looking good, though rougher than expected.

Thanks for sharing.


Agreed, I can’t find the picture now but I saw a well-used Viberg pair in olive WF and the abrasive points of the boot were an odd light green.

Dark brown seems to age well. I didn’t realize WF was basically rough-out CXL with wax.

So it makes sense that a waxy product like Sno-Seal helps refinish them.

I'm surprised the Olive rough patches were still green. The core of the leather always seems to look mid-brown so I assumed that's what would show through on the roughed-up patches. Or perhaps the dye tends to stick better to the rougher surface that it does on easily scratched smooth CXL.

I read somewhere that Nick Horween mentioned that they use VSC to create WF leather, but I use a light application of SnoSeal if I need the leather to be more waterproof.

I did try using VSC to turn a rough-out pair of boots to WF and it sort of had the desired effect, but I probably needed to apply about twice the amount I had.

 

[Woodtroll]

Thank you for the pics and comments woodtroll, very useful for me too. I’m looking to get a pair of packers on the 690 last. Not very often seen here. Seeing the two welt trims side by side was especially timely. ????

Thank you, glad I could offer some help. I've learned a lot on this thread, and am happy to return the favor.

They look great. Others have reported that this leather darkens to the point of almost looking black after a while, but yours look about like the web pictures. How much wear have these had, and what if anything have you done to condition / waterproof?

Thank you. The brown packers have had only a little wear, as I bought them mostly for causal get-togethers and "going to town" when I wanted something just a little more dressy than cleaning up my work boots.

The Stockmans are not quite a year old, I guess, and have had considerably more wear. Until just recently when I began trying Obenauf's grease (LP, I think it is), I had always used a home-made mix of SnoSeal and real neatsfoot oil (not neatsfoot compound). I don't know if I will keep using Obenauf's on brown leather once I use up my current jar, as it does tend to darken the brown leather considerably. The problem with my SnoSeal/oil concoction is that it sometimes will allow leather to begin molding in damp weather if the boots are stored away out of fresh air and sunlight. The Obenauf's seems to prevent this, so far. But my home mix does not permanently darken brown or lighter leather nearly as much as the Obenauf's does. I know that you've probably heard that neatsfoot oil will cause leather and stitching rot, but I have never had any of these problems in the last 35 years or so I have used this mix. But I don't over-treat the boots, either, just grease them when they get dry or when they've been soaked in rain, snow, or creeks for long periods.

 

[paulraphael]

Thanks for the details.

I'm willing to bet that the whole idea of neatsfoot oil rotting stitching comes from the days when they used natural fiber thread. Nowadays it would be nuts to use anything besides polyester or whatever synthetic fibers they use. It's not going to rot.

Thank you, glad I could offer some help. I've learned a lot on this thread, and am happy to return the favor.




Thank you. The brown packers have had only a little wear, as I bought them mostly for causal get-togethers and "going to town" when I wanted something just a little more dressy than cleaning up my work boots.

The Stockmans are not quite a year old, I guess, and have had considerably more wear. Until just recently when I began trying Obenauf's grease (LP, I think it is), I had always used a home-made mix of SnoSeal and real neatsfoot oil (not neatsfoot compound). I don't know if I will keep using Obenauf's on brown leather once I use up my current jar, as it does tend to darken the brown leather considerably. The problem with my SnoSeal/oil concoction is that it sometimes will allow leather to begin molding in damp weather if the boots are stored away out of fresh air and sunlight. The Obenauf's seems to prevent this, so far. But my home mix does not permanently darken brown or lighter leather nearly as much as the Obenauf's does. I know that you've probably heard that neatsfoot oil will cause leather and stitching rot, but I have never had any of these problems in the last 35 years or so I have used this mix. But I don't over-treat the boots, either, just grease them when they get dry or when they've been soaked in rain, snow, or creeks for long periods.

 

[PACostag]

I'm surprised the Olive rough patches were still green. The core of the leather always seems to look mid-brown so I assumed that's what would show through on the roughed-up patches. Or perhaps the dye tends to stick better to the rougher surface that it does on easily scratched smooth CXL.

I read somewhere that Nick Horween mentioned that they use VSC to create WF leather, but I use a light application of SnoSeal if I need the leather to be more waterproof.

I did try using VSC to turn a rough-out pair of boots to WF and it sort of had the desired effect, but I probably needed to apply about twice the amount I had.

IMO, VSC works well to maintain the original coat of wax if you use it pretty regularly - don't let the original coat fully rub off if you want to maintain the fresh from the factory look. If you do let the original coat get away from you completely, you'll have a hard time getting it back to that look with an entire tub of VSC

 

[js0930]

I’m also looking for more pictures of Olive WF in the wild. I am considering Dark Brown WF too, and would be interested to see a well-worn pair in this leather.

Comparing several similar-looking models from the White’s website I am curious what differences are responsible for the large gaps in pricing.

8” Stockman - $429.95 - 55 last
8” Farmer/Rancher - $519.95 - 4811 last
6” 350 Cruiser - $569.95 - 55 last

Is the price difference due to the quality of leather used? Construction looks to be the same, and heel profiles and outsoles are similar.

The Stockman isn’t handwelted. If you read the construction description on the Whites site they go into the differences. I doubt it makes that much of a difference but you could always call and ask.

 

[ghdvfddzgzdzg]

@Whaley those are so, so good

 

[miggyramone]

Pulled the trigger on some Smoke Jumpers. I have been curious about the 4811 last and figured I'd give it a try. Here is my build:

• Last: Standard
• Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Dress
• Upper (Shaft) Leather: Brown Dress
• Height: 6"
• Counter Leather: Brown Dress
• Leather Liner: Tan
• Toe Cap: No Thanks
• Toe Cap Leather Color: None
• Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
• Steel Toe: No Thanks
• Hardware: Brass Eyes & Hooks
• Top: Cut Top (standard)
• Midsole: Single
• Edge: Brown
• Sole: Vibram Composition Half Sole
• Lace Design: Plain Toe
• Size - Length: 9.5
• Size - Width: F

 

[manowar]

I'm surprised the Olive rough patches were still green. The core of the leather always seems to look mid-brown so I assumed that's what would show through on the roughed-up patches. Or perhaps the dye tends to stick better to the rougher surface that it does on easily scratched smooth CXL.

I read somewhere that Nick Horween mentioned that they use VSC to create WF leather, but I use a light application of SnoSeal if I need the leather to be more waterproof.

I did try using VSC to turn a rough-out pair of boots to WF and it sort of had the desired effect, but I probably needed to apply about twice the amount I had.

Finally found the photos of distressed Olive WF again. It's on a Wesco build. The deep green I can handle, but those light green scuffs are a little off-putting... although it could grow on me.

Spoiler: Non-White's Olive WF

 

[Jimk4003]

I'm surprised the Olive rough patches were still green. The core of the leather always seems to look mid-brown so I assumed that's what would show through on the roughed-up patches. Or perhaps the dye tends to stick better to the rougher surface that it does on easily scratched smooth CXL.

I think the reason the scuffs on the waxed flesh are still green is because 'scuffs' on waxed flesh usually aren't the same as scuffs on smooth-out topgrain leather.

On smooth-out leather, a scuff usually takes a bit of the top surface away, revelaing whatever is underneath. If the core of the leather is a different colour to the top finish, this is what shows through.

On waxed flesh, scuffs are really just taking a bit of the top wax off, leaving the naturally fuzzy nap to show through; so the colour of the 'scuff' (which is really just the nap of the leather anyway), will be the same colour, minus the wax.

 

[hoppy_IPA]

Brushed & shined my 8” Horse Hide Bounty Hunters. Thought I’d share a couple pics