Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[Leveskie]

Awesome, I’ll keep an eye out to see if anything changes, would be a shame if I couldn’t wear them now that all other boots have been ruined for me.

Alot of guys put fiebings acrylic resolene on the heel stack so moisture doesn't get to it. Keeps it looking new, but I think its natural for the leather to shrink a little. Just make sure the nails don't back out.

 

[linafelt]

^Honestly, I think I’d actually be a little worried if that happened to my boots. I would at least check with white’s to see what they say.

 

[Rymanocerous]

It's funny getting these two boots in the last few months and seeing the few little branding changes that have taken place. Updated hang tags and new heel pads. I both miss the old ones and really like the aesthetic of the new ones. Much more of a lifestyle, modern approach vs traditional, work.

 

[discomute]

What type of leather are your boots?

Yes, we need to know the type of leather.

The pair I "ruined" was brown CXL... I slathered them in Obenauf's (I heard it was "the thing" for White's boots!) until it literally would not soak in any further. They were "ruined" not in the sense that they could not be worn, but that they lost all shade and color variation and took on the appearance of a wet paper bag, and lost some of the firmness to the leather... they basically became dull and boring.

What kind of "minor scuffs" are you getting? If I could not get the scuffs out with a brisk brushing, I would use a colored shoe polish on the affected area... it will cover the scuff, but not soak into the leather. Little chance of "over-treating" with hard polish. Any cream type product can be overused, but if you are not slathering it on... try using a dab on your finger and spreading it thin... you are not likely doing any damage.

I may brush my boots once a week or if they are dusty, but do not condition weekly. Perhaps you are putting yours to harder use... but do share the leather you are dealing with, and perhaps pictures of the scuffs.

Calfskin. These are boots (rightly or wrongly) I wear with a suit. Therefore, I don't like scuffs, I like them to look as uniform as possible.

This isn't a good shot but these are the types of scuffs I'll build up after a week and cannot brush out

Edit - I should say that I used to use a tiny amount and it would remove 80% of it. But if I'm more generous and leave it for a few minutes to soak in, it will remove 100% of it, so that's what I've been doing

 

[johng70]

Calfskin. These are boots (rightly or wrongly) I wear with a suit. Therefore, I don't like scuffs, I like them to look as uniform as possible.

This isn't a good shot (I sorted them last night) but these are the types of scuffs I'll build up after a week and cannot brush out

So, IMO, conditioner is a complete waste of time with calfskin dress shoes. Just use polish, preferably a wax polish. You get a good amount of wax on the shoes and skuffs are limited to that layer and easier to buff out (I find for scuffs that my finger or polishing cloth can be more helpful than a brush). I can assure you that using a normal wax polish won't damage the shoes - but the better you've built up the wax coating the easier your life is to remove scuffs when they occur. Just by looking at your shoes I can see there isn't much of a wax base. Here's the shoes I'm wearing right now - polished a couple weeks ago when you look close you can see a little bit of scuff but nothing like your images.

 

[John9317]

does anyone have the ability to do a side-by-side mini photo review of their 55 last vs MP boot? Trying to get an idea of how the toe boxes visually compare to one another.

Also - if anyone is actually interested in a small-batch whiskey (or natural) shell boot order, please PM me. I'm in talks with Kyle, and there is strength in numbers...

Take a a look at this review (not mine) - here.
There are comparison shots in the album.

 

[Turns31]

Calfskin. These are boots (rightly or wrongly) I wear with a suit. Therefore, I don't like scuffs, I like them to look as uniform as possible.

View attachment 1345290

This isn't a good shot but these are the types of scuffs I'll build up after a week and cannot brush out

Edit - I should say that I used to use a tiny amount and it would remove 80% of it. But if I'm more generous and leave it for a few minutes to soak in, it will remove 100% of it, so that's what I've been doing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QET03G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1 This **** is great. Best polish I've found.

 

[discomute]

So, IMO, conditioner is a complete waste of time with calfskin dress shoes. Just use polish, preferably a wax polish. You get a good amount of wax on the shoes and skuffs are limited to that layer and easier to buff out (I find for scuffs that my finger or polishing cloth can be more helpful than a brush). I can assure you that using a normal wax polish won't damage the shoes - but the better you've built up the wax coating the easier your life is to remove scuffs when they occur. Just by looking at your shoes I can see there isn't much of a wax base. Here's the shoes I'm wearing right now - polished a couple weeks ago when you look close you can see a little bit of scuff but nothing like your images.

Oh interesting, so you're saying wax adds a layer of protection? I don't have a saphir wax polish (not wanting a shine) so I ran with the Pomm Creme.

Kirby Allison recommendeds renovataur with calfskin so that's what I use, but only once every few months

 

[wordfool]

I suspect that heel slippage is exacerbated by the Barrie last (warning internet hack theory coming) because it's not an Otto/White's design, but copied from a manufacturer whose focus is the shape of the boot to give that "dress" feel. Therefore it requires a sleek toe shape proportionate to the boot, which means in turn more room in the heel/ankle for what the toe needs to look like in your relevant size.

Isn't it stated somewhere that White's modified the Barrie last so it fit like a 55? Seems unlikely, however, that one could make two different-shaped lasts fit the same because they're... erm... different shapes. Why not just use the 55 last? Whatever the case, the Barrie last aspect is one reason I'd be hesitant to try an MP. My skinny heels/ankles and runner's toes are just not well suited to the shape. A shame because I prefer the overall look of the MP to the Bounty Hunter.

 

[discomute]

Isn't it stated somewhere that White's modified the Barrie last so it fit like a 55? Seems unlikely, however, that one could make two different-shaped lasts fit the same because they're... erm... different shapes. Why not just use the 55 last? Whatever the case, the Barrie last aspect is one reason I'd be hesitant to try an MP. My skinny heels/ankles and runner's toes are just not well suited to the shape. A shame because I prefer the overall look of the MP to the Bounty Hunter.

Aesthetics and fashion are rarely linked to comfort. Otherwise we'd all be wearing tracky pants (sweat pants?) and unironed t-shirts to work.

 

[Jimk4003]

Hi guys,

Was looking for some input on some fairly pronounced loose grain on the inside of my Cinnamon Waxed Flash MP Service Boots. Obviously, being on the inside, it's not a cosmetic issue.

What I'm most concerned about is that the affected leather section, which is the left upper quarter on the left boot, has lost most of its structure; the leather feels pretty spongey, and the boot just falls over to the left whenever it's left unsupported.

As I say, I'm unconcerned by the cosmetics, since it's inside the boot, but it does appear to be affecting the rigidity of the leather, which has quite a spongey, puffy feel to it. It also seems fairly pronounced for a pair of boots which are two months old and worn in rotation with several other pairs.

Any thoughts?

 

[Legal Eagles]

Oh interesting, so you're saying wax adds a layer of protection? I don't have a saphir wax polish (not wanting a shine) so I ran with the Pomm Creme.

Kirby Allison recommendeds renovataur with calfskin so that's what I use, but only once every few months

Renovateur is for conditioning... and once every few months sounds about right...

@johng70 is right... if your calf is prone to scuffs, the best thing you can do for them is to add a nice layer of wax... think of it as a "deflector shield"... and not only for scuffs, also for rain, snow, dirt, salt, slush, etc. (although if wearing calf in those conditions one might best be served by a good pair of overshoes or commuter boots.)

Wax... now wax is for shine, but also for protection... a scuff that otherwise would reach the leather surface, may only disturb the wax layers, and thus be easily brushed or polished out. Even if a scuff did disturb the actual leather surface, if used properly the wax polish will recolor, fill any voids and create a new surface making the old scuff invisible.


Renovateur, being colorless is for conditioning the leather itself and leaving the surface with a glow.
Color: None;
Shine: Low (more "glow" or "sheen" maybe)
Conditioning: High
Surface Protection: None

Pommadier Cream Polish imparts a little more shine, some conditioning, and being pigmented can cover surface imperfections.
Color: Medium;
Shine: Medium;
Conditioning: Medium/Low
Surface Protection: Low

High Gloss Wax imparts a little conditioning and does not soak in much, but gives a good shine, and recolors scuffs really well. I use Renovateur solely for conditioning, so I don't need that from my wax. This is my "go to" product for every day.
Color: High;
Shine: High;
Conditioning: Low
Surface Protection: High

Mirror Gloss conditions not at all, recolors very well and can give a dazzling shine. I use this on toe caps and heels, and when building initial wax layers... if you use this anywhere the leather flexes, you will get unsightly white flaking... a most unfortunate look that needs to be brushed off.
Color Very High;
Shine: Dazzling;
Conditioning: None
Surface Protection: High, but with the white flaking caveat.

Canadian conditions a tiny bit, recolors best of all, but gives no shine... I would only use this if I were trying to recolor from some massive catastrophic event.
Color: Off the Charts;
Shine: None;
Conditioning: Very Little.
Surface Protection: Low

In any event, my opinion is Saphir is the best... as long as you stick to the Medaille D'or, not the Beaute Du Cuir (which is OK too, but not as good as the MDO.) Note Canadian is only available in Beaute Du Cuir, maybe because it did not exist in 1925... I do not know... c'est la vie.

All of the above is my opinion only.

 

[TH3515]

Upon inspection this evening, the White’s 10” SJ is 10” OVERALL height, including the heel & sole. This recent pair from a different PNW maker is 10” shaft height; measured from top of the shaft to top of the sole.

What is everyone else’s understanding & expectation of boot height?

I just checked with my trusty old Zollstock to be sure: My 8" F/Rs are precisely 8" from midsole shelf to top edge. And my 10" SJ are 10". Heel is not included (it's typically another 2"). It looks like your 10" SJ may actually be an 8" boot.

 

[PACostag]

Hi guys,

Was looking for some input on some fairly pronounced loose grain on the inside of my Cinnamon Waxed Flash MP Service Boots. Obviously, being on the inside, it's not a cosmetic issue.

What I'm most concerned about is that the affected leather section, which is the left upper quarter on the left boot, has lost most of its structure; the leather feels pretty spongey, and the boot just falls over to the left whenever it's left unsupported.

As I say, I'm unconcerned by the cosmetics, since it's inside the boot, but it does appear to be affecting the rigidity of the leather, which has quite a spongey, puffy feel to it. It also seems fairly pronounced for a pair of boots which are two months old and worn in rotation with several other pairs.


Any thoughts?

no issues there IMO. The lining leather they use is soft as butter to begin with and probably contributes almost nothing to the overall stiffness of the outside leather

 

[Jimk4003]

no issues there IMO. The lining leather they use is soft as butter to begin with and probably contributes almost nothing to the overall stiffness of the outside leather

Thanks for the reply. These boots are unlined; that loose grain you can see is the top grain of the waxed flesh, which is a roughout leather.