Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[linafelt]

What advice would you give a first-time handmade boot buyer? Both Nick's and Whites look great. My feet are wide at the toes, but medium everywhere else, if that makes a difference. Otherwise I find it hard to choose between the two.

I'd be looking for 6" or 8" workboots that could dress up or down, plain toe, commando soles, relatively low heels.

I like the esthetic of the commando soles, and like to have them for winter weather. My one hesitation is how well they wear. I live in the city and walk a lot. I've learned to avoid wearing my serious hiking and trail running shoes in the city except on snow, because the pavement wears them down like sandpaper. Thoughts on how these particular vibram soles hold up to urban walking?

If you were interested in a 5" boot I'd say White's Semi-Dress would be perfect for what you describe. But for 6" go with the Bounty Hunter, built on the semi dress (aka 55) last, but 6" with external heel counter.

For leather, maybe black or brown dress, which are hardwearing but also can look nice.

If you mean the commando lug halfsole, I have had it on my BHs for a couple of years, with honestly negligible wear. They're a good choice.

 

[discomute]

Yes I'd look at a Bounty Hunter, you can choose 6,7 or 8 inch

Sounds like there is a lot of leather that will suit. Horsehide great but pricey, certainly the dress leathers are fantastic for their price, though restrictive in colour. Oiltan or "smooth" would also work. Really I'd sort through photos and see what you like. Just about everything ticks your box, probably not CXL if it's a workbook.

And since you've said "workbook" so I wouldn't go with a half soles, despite its aesthetic advantage. One underrated trick would be to get the edges of full sole in black so it'll look uninterrupted... But each to their own!

 

[paulraphael]

Thanks! I really meant workboot esthetic; If there's any hard or dirty work to be done I'll put on Chuck Taylors or some beat up Blundstones. I do want them to be good for lots of walking, in all kinds of weather, and to take the beatings of everyday life.

Why don't I see the bounty hunter on Whites' site? I see only it at resellers, like Bakers. And with very limited leathers. I do see the Sherman MP, which looks similar and was the one that initially caught my eye. What are the differences?

 

[Legal Eagles]

What advice would you give a first-time handmade boot buyer?

Do not buy that first pair... it is an addiction that will cost you much... it is too late for us, but you can still save yourself... buy a pair of Redwings and call it a day...

Both Nick's and Whites look great.

They should, they share the same DNA

My feet are wide at the toes, but medium everywhere else, if that makes a difference.

Mine too... the one thing White's offers to wide toed members that Nick's does not is the 38 Swing Last... White's and Nicks 55 Last fits me "pretty good"... but I have many more White's than Nick's because of the 38 Swing...find the best last for your foot shape and go from there... all other considerations take a back seat to comfort, and comfort starts with the right last.

I'd be looking for 6" or 8" workboots that could dress up or down, plain toe, commando soles, relatively low heels.

Go with a 6" unless you are in construction or firefighting or other manual labor... 6" is enough and lighter and easier to get on and off... I am even more partial to the 5" SD which is all most of us keyboard commandos really need.

I like the esthetic of the commando soles, and like to have them for winter weather.

Me too... the uninterrupted heel stack is a thing of beauty.

My one hesitation is how well they wear. I live in the city and walk a lot. I've learned to avoid wearing my serious hiking and trail running shoes in the city except on snow, because the pavement wears them down like sandpaper.
Thoughts on how these particular vibram soles hold up to urban walking?

The"new" (it is like 3 years old now) TPU sole is amazing when it comes to wear... I have worn pairs for a year on pavement and barely started to wear down the pattern... they can get hard and slippery when cold, but c'est la vie.

 

[discomute]

Been meaning to write a few things but the conversation moves on, so to anyone but cares:

- I'm in the minority that "tan" shoes are better a shade or three darkened. True Beige is very hard to match especially with the shoes I wear. What I'd like from whites is a non CXL unlined option is a tan or lighter brown. As far as I can tell Brown Smooth is as light as it gets

- legaleagle, whilst I appreciate your humility I think it's fair to say you know as much as anyone on this forum. Those that are your equal (and there are some) don't post with as much frequency or answer as many newb questions. So if you want to show off your collection, photos, thoughts on leather and builds and how they have held up over time, we would only benefit from it.

- got my hangar project box and managed to do my first routine (black calfskin) One thing that was unclear to me was that leather soap was probably unnecessary given I will always finish with renovataur - I could have used something a bit harsher like saddle soap. After the leather soap along I'd say my scuffs and leather looked 40% better, after renovataur another 40%. After my matte polish I have to say there was no difference to my eye before or after.

I guess the other oddity was how soft my shoeshine brush was. I was always told not to use shoe brushes on suits because they are firmer and can damage material, but my Kent clothes brush is much firmer than Kirby's shoe brush. *Shrug*

 

[Legal Eagles]

Why don't I see the bounty hunter on Whites' site? I see only it at resellers, like Bakers. And with very limited leathers. I do see the Sherman MP, which looks similar and was the one that initially caught my eye. What are the differences?

Because "Bounty Hunter" is a marketing term exclusive to Bakers. In reality it is just a Smokejumper on a 55 Last. If you go to the Baker's site, you can select "Custom Bounty Hunter" or "Custom Smoke Jumper (and select the 55 Last)" and get the same product...

White's offers fewer custom options than Bakers... if you want custom... go Bakers.

The Sherman MP is built on the Barrie Dress Shoe Last... it is made with dressier leather, and is a lifestyle boot. The Bounty Hunter is at heart Smokejumper and as such (depending on the choice of leather) is more of a work boot. Try getting a LTT Sherman!

 

[Legal Eagles]

Been meaning to write a few things but the conversation moves on, so to anyone but cares:

- I'm in the minority that "tan" shoes are better a shade or three darkened. True Beige is very hard to match especially with the shoes I wear. What I'd like from whites is a non CXL unlined option is a tan or lighter brown. As far as I can tell Brown Smooth is as light as it gets

- legaleagle, whilst I appreciate your humility I think it's fair to say you know as much as anyone on this forum. Those that are your equal (and there are some) don't post with as much frequency or answer as many newb questions. So if you want to show off your collection, photos, thoughts on leather and builds and how they have held up over time, we would only benefit from it.

- got my hangar project box and managed to do my first routine (black calfskin) One thing that was unclear to me was that leather soap was probably unnecessary given I will always finish with renovataur - I could have used something a bit harsher like saddle soap. After the leather soap along I'd say my scuffs and leather looked 40% better, after renovataur another 40%. After my matte polish I have to say there was no difference to my eye before or after.

I guess the other oddity was how soft my shoeshine brush was. I was always told not to use shoe brushes on suits because they are firmer and can damage material, but my Kent clothes brush is much firmer than Kirby's shoe brush. *Shrug*

Nice post... thanks for the kind words.

1) We were all novices once, and this can be an expensive and intimidating hobby if you don't know what you are doing... I made many missteps with sizing, last selection, leather choice, and leather treatment when I started out. I wish there had been a forum like this to answer my questions, so I will always try to help out others... that is what is so great about this forum. They say there is no such thing as a stupid question... that is wrong... there are many, many, stupid questions, but fewer than average here!

2) Leather soap is likely unnecessary unless the actual leather is dirty or stained... a wipe with a moist cloth may be all you need if you always finish with Renovateur...

3) What is a matte polish? I am genuinely curious... it seems like an oxymoron... like military intelligence!

4)Good shoeshine brushes should be soft... a shoeshine brush is only used in two circumstances: wiping dust from a shoe that has been in storage, or buffing a shine that has become dull with time or use. Never for cleaning... if the shoe is dirty or muddy, use a cloth or cleaning brush... a shoeshine brush is for "shining" a cleaning brush is for "cleaning"... for shine you want a soft brush...

And as I always say, internet advice is worth every penny you pay, and YMMV...

 

[miggyramone]

Do not buy that first pair... it is an addiction that will cost you much... it is too late for us, but you can still save yourself... buy a pair of Redwings and call it a day...

I almost spit out my coffee reading this haha.

 

[geremy]

- I'm in the minority that "tan" shoes are better a shade or three darkened. True Beige is very hard to match especially with the shoes I wear. What I'd like from whites is a non CXL unlined option is a tan or lighter brown. As far as I can tell Brown Smooth is as light as it gets

You should check out distressed smooth. Thick & hearty yet soft. Light Brown. Patinas remarkably.

 

[discomute]

You always say that then give better advice than you can pay for...

"Matte polish" is Pomm creme - I think a term I picked up from Kirby? Or maybe invented to differentiate between that and the wax, since I'm not a fan of the mirror shine like you

 

[TH3515]

Quick question - sizing differences between the 4811 and 55 lasts? And the 55 and Packer lasts? Wondering if I could go down one width going from 55 to 4811. And how you size the packer vs 55. Any help is appreciated.

My 2 Euro-Cents:
Do not go down in width from #55 to #4811. If anything, you might go up one width, but that seems to depend on the individual pair of feet. In my experience, the 55 offers more instep volume than the 4811. My next #4811 boot will be 13C, possibly even 13D, whereas I would order 13B in the #55 last.

Damn. The ongoing "tan leather" discussion on here has revived my cravings for a bright tan boot. Or possibly a two-tone build with tan and some nice contrast colour. Still not sure if I'd be happy with Water Buffalo – any pictures of the „Cognac“ (light brown) and/or the Black Cherry with some wear?

 

[PACostag]

Can anyone share the shell cordovan experience? Any White's shell owners on here?

 

[discomute]

You should check out distressed smooth. Thick & hearty yet soft. Light Brown. Patinas remarkably.

I have been looking at photos and I am a bit confused. I was under the impression that distressed smooth was like rough out much shorter. So if you ran your finger over it, it would be like felt. Am I right, or is it smooth like oiltan or dress?

Colour wise their light brown is lovely

 

[Mghart]

Can anyone share the shell cordovan experience? Any White's shell owners on here?

Don’t own any shell White’s but have owned plenty of Alden shell. I’ve certainly looked into it, but I do feel the up charge that White’s has for shell is a bit reaching for the level of finish they have for the boots.

The few SDs I’ve seen online do look beautiful. I would hope the boots they do make in shell, or any other exotic leather would receive extra attention on the assembly line.

 

[geremy]

I have been looking at photos and I am a bit confused. I was under the impression that distressed smooth was like rough out much shorter. So if you ran your finger over it, it would be like felt. Am I right, or is it smooth like oiltan or dress?

Colour wise their light brown is lovely

Well a lot of the distressed images are distressed rough-out, which is obviously felt-like, but you can also have the smooth side out, and then it is more like normal leather whose surface has been sanded down a bit. It has some of the same advantages of a rough out: it doesn't crease heavily and requires very little upkeep, but in appearance it isn't as 'casual' as rough out and can pass for normal leather. It can even develop a nice sheen with good brushing/product.

@PACostag has a nice pair that shows the smooth finish (and it's variability) a few pages back:

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www.styleforum.net

Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

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www.styleforum.net