Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[Turns31]

I got into work this morning with my new boots, crossed my leg at my desk and noticed the inner left boot shaft has some loose grain. Anyway to remedy this or did this shoe just lose the CXL lottery? If this was a work boot (smokejumpers for example) I wouldn't give a second thought to it. Sent a pic to Whites CS asking for their opinion and they stated it's normal wear and to try conditioning it.

 

[Legal Eagles]

Why wouldn't (and do any soles) run from the toe to the heel, then again onto the heel. Thus covering the entire bottom of the foot without interrupting the heel stack?

Like a Unit Sole? They do, but it makes it wonky to adjust the heel height... you have to use half slips and those just look weird.

 

[PACostag]

That’s CXL for ya, prone to loose grain. To my knowledge there’s nothing you can do aside hope for the other side to crease similarly over time

 

[linafelt]

I got into work this morning with my new boots, crossed my leg at my desk and noticed the inner left boot shaft has some loose grain. Anyway to remedy this or did this shoe just lose the CXL lottery? If this was a work boot (smokejumpers for example) I wouldn't give a second thought to it. Sent a pic to Whites CS asking for their opinion and they stated it's normal wear and to try conditioning it.

As I think I just wrote recently on another board (or was it this one..?), my impression is that "loose grain" (where the layers of the leather have actually separated, is quite rare, and this is probably not what you have here. Rather, it's the nature of CXL creasing. I don't imagine conditioning will do anything.

 

[Turns31]

That’s CXL for ya, prone to loose grain. To my knowledge there’s nothing you can do aside hope for the other side to crease similarly over time

Honestly, if the other side was similar I wouldn't mention it either. It's because the right boot is so perfect and tight.

 

[Legal Eagles]

As I think I just wrote recently on another board (or was it this one..?), my impression is that "loose grain" (where the layers of the leather have actually separated, is quite rare, and this is probably not what you have here. Rather, it's the nature of CXL creasing. I don't imagine conditioning will do anything.

I agree... Horween wrote an article on this... they call it "break" and it is just how the leather bends and folds... at the end they have pictures of what they consider acceptable... note that some of the pictures show two shoes in the same pair exhibiting different break (like @Turns31)... not saying it is right, but that's from the horse's mouth.

ON LEATHER QUALITY AND PROPERTIES — Horween Leather Co.

A customer recently shared a styleforum post with me after mentioning that there has been some discussion surrounding leather quality, especially with regards to “break.”

www.horween.com

 

[nwlifer]

Yeah that seems to be really common with cxl that it will experience some creasing like that. The clicker placed it on the inside quarter, as opposed to the outside or the vamp, so that's a plus.

 

[discomute]

I agree... Horween wrote an article on this... they call it "break" and it is just how the leather bends and folds... at the end they have pictures of what they consider acceptable... note that some of the pictures show two shoes in the same pair exhibiting different break (like @Turns31)... not saying it is right, but that's from the horse's mouth.

ON LEATHER QUALITY AND PROPERTIES — Horween Leather Co.

A customer recently shared a styleforum post with me after mentioning that there has been some discussion surrounding leather quality, especially with regards to “break.”

www.horween.com

Any love I had for CXL disappeared with this article. It's very pretty but... Well... it's not "boot grade" leather in my completely non-expert opinion

 

[Mghart]

Any love I had for CXL disappeared with this article. It's very pretty but... Well... it's not "boot grade" leather in my completely non-expert opinion

Like I would imagine most leathers, there are 'grades' of that leather. Whites from what I've seen uses decent CXL, but its not perhaps as good as some other high end boot makers that produce at a lower volume. For example, the CXL that Lofgren uses is much much better in terms of grain and evenness.

That said, not sure if Whites uses thinner CXL on the Main Street line versus their all the SD/SJ boots.

 

[manowar]

The CXL on my Wolverines has been abused to snot and it’s nearly as soft as lambskin. I have conditioned it more than is needed and it’s super comfy, but not great for durability. It’s not designed to be a work leather, more of a “show” leather. Interesting article.

 

[linafelt]

The debate on CXL is, of course, without end. Many pixels have been spilled on it in this and other forums, with strong defenders and strong detractors. I was once more on the skeptical side, but the CXL on my bounty hunters has done very well indeed over nearly six years of wear. There are various factors that contribute to how it wears, including whether lined or not, the reinforcement that White's uses in the toe and heel counter areas, and just sheer luck of how and where it creases.

 

[Legal Eagles]

[J]ust sheer luck of how and where it creases.

Spot on.

I have come to the conclusion that luck is the biggest factor... you pay your money and you take your chances... one can of course improve one's chances by ordering from a higher end company, but there are no guarantees.

 

[miggyramone]

CXL feels great on feet and their colors age nicely but it is definitely a gamble. I wish White's sourced other colors in their Dress leather. A tan or burgundy would be wonderful.

 

[linafelt]

I agree... Horween wrote an article on this... they call it "break" and it is just how the leather bends and folds... at the end they have pictures of what they consider acceptable... note that some of the pictures show two shoes in the same pair exhibiting different break (like @Turns31)... not saying it is right, but that's from the horse's mouth.

ON LEATHER QUALITY AND PROPERTIES — Horween Leather Co.

A customer recently shared a styleforum post with me after mentioning that there has been some discussion surrounding leather quality, especially with regards to “break.”

www.horween.com

Boy in the pics here the Wolverine 1K boots consistently come off worse, while the Aldens look pretty good all around, and the Vibergs mixed. Limited pool of course, but would make me wary of the 1Ks..

 

[discomute]

CXL feels great on feet and their colors age nicely but it is definitely a gamble. I wish White's sourced other colors in their Dress leather. A tan or burgundy would be wonderful.

Given how dark their dress brown is to smooth brown, it'd be interesting to see what a dress tan would look like.

I'd almost certainly buy it straight away though. I'm dying for it...