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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. 4characters

    4characters Senior member

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    Sounds like a couple of fun and exciting days.[​IMG]
     
  2. kenucklehead

    kenucklehead Active Member

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    Question about Horsehide vs cowhide.

    I really dig the pictures posted here of the brown horsehide. However, I've also noticed that horsehide seems to have pretty prominent wrinkling/creasing after they've broken in. Is this a characteristic typical of horsehide?

    I'm looking for a dark-medium brown leather that will take a bit of a shine. I've gotten several samples from White's and had pretty much decided on the Brown CXL. However, I am concerned about how it will wear in the long term. I believe it darkens with age, right? While I like the dress brown, it is so dark it might as well be black.

    Any ideas?
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2013
  3. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    CXL isn't good if you're going to be rough on the boots or if you care about getting them dark. It is a super comfortable leather with some great properties but it does darken pretty easily.

    The dress brown actually seems to get lighter with time - maybe people on here have some pics of worn in dress brown... that might be your best bet
     
  4. Okal

    Okal Well-Known Member

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    Kenucklehead -- I don't know if the wrinkling/creasing is characteristic of all horsehide, but there is some on my boots. I personally like the look as long as it does not become terribly pronounced over time. By comparison, the CXL becomes more and more creased and may eventually break through. I have never had that problem with any type of horsehide I have ever owned that is properly maintained. I have worn my boots quite a lot more now and have seen some additional creasing/wrinkling, but not much. I brush my boots (and other shoes) daily after wearing, and the horsehide keeps its beautiful, almost new, appearance day after day, unlike many other leathers. If I could go back and order any boots again, I would keep my order exactly the same. The horsehide SDs are probably the nicest pair of boots/shoes I have ever worn, and they are breaking in very well too. The comfort factor is high and increases every time I wear the boots; however, it may take months or even longer to reach the point of perfection where they are fully molded to my feet.

    Scott -- I still want some Packers! You have any comments about the comfort of yours? I can't tell for sure -- which toe did you have, pointed or rounded?

    I just wanted to mention that the Saddleback Leather Classic Briefcase in the background of some of my photos was the large size that looks fairly small next to my size 12.5 SDs (I normally wear size 13 in most footwear). Actually, I liked the size of the briefcase until I discovered it wouldn't hold my legal sized folders I need to carry. So, I sent it back and will be purchasing the XL size that is described by Saddleback as being made for "Pituitary Giant circus performers and men over 6' 5"." I'm only 6'1" and 190 pounds, but wearing my SDs with standard Cuban heel height I stand 6'3", so I'm not so far away from the height category. Besides, I carry briefcases that big all the time in my line of work, and it will look more normal with my circus performer sized shoes. [​IMG]

    Allan
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2013
  5. kenucklehead

    kenucklehead Active Member

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    @tigerpac

    I'm not worried about darkening. I just don't want black for the boots I'm thinking of. I did see a few older dress browns and thought they were black. I like the leather but just don't think it's the right one for my custom order. I do like a rich, medium dark brown and the leathers I've seen that are the closest are the Brown CXL and the Brown HH.

    @Allan

    Thanks for the input. There was a photo (can't seem to find it) of a pair of brown HH next to a brown satchel. The brown was so rich and beautiful. It was this photo that got me thinking of using HH. Was that your photo? Do you have any recent photos to share?
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2013
  6. 4characters

    4characters Senior member

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    Hey daizawaguy, how are your Navy CXL Semi-Dress boots holding up? The boots I ordered are inspired in part by your boots and I’m really curious about how the navy CXL looks after a little use. Mind posting a picture of how they are ageing?[​IMG]

    Thanks
     
  7. palma

    palma Senior member

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    Thanks for the sample leather pics. I saw the ones on East West Apparel's website as well. I was hoping to locate a full boot made in either of those leathers. But partial use is quite good. I am liking oil tan over Brown Smooth so far.



    Are you sure that isn't Brown Dress which is nearly Black. Brown Smooth or Brown Oil tan are different which are the pictures I am after.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2013
  8. Okal

    Okal Well-Known Member

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    Kenucklehead -- Yes, those were my photos of the HH SDs and the Saddleback Classic Briefcase. I don't have any more recent photos of the boots at this point, but I can tell you they don't look much different. I'll try to get some more photos posted anyway so you can see. You cannot go wrong with the HH. I have seen many of the leathers that White's uses, since we have a dealer here in town where I live who has dozens of White's boots in stock, none of which are in my size. It is nice to be able to compare leathers and boot styles. There is no other leather White's typically uses that looks as nice as HH, at least in my opinion. If they offered that choice of leather in any other White's boot style, I would probably buy it.

    Allan
     
  9. kenucklehead

    kenucklehead Active Member

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    Are you saying the HH is only available for SD boots? I was looking at getting Bounty Hunters.
     
  10. andy b.

    andy b. Senior member

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    Positive. My SJs are Black Roughout (black smooth reversed with the rough side out) , and Brown Smooth. Here is the order acknowledgement:

    Products on order:
    1 x White's Smoke Jumper Standard Last - $454.95
    SKU: 400
    Leather 1: Brown Smooth
    Leather 2: Black Rough Out
    Toe Vamp Leather: Black Rough Out
    Toe Cap Leather: None
    Celastic Toe Box: Single
    Steel Toe: No
    Heel Counter Leather: Black Rough Out
    Height: 10"
    Upper (Shaft) Leather : Brown Smooth
    Leather Liner: No Thanks
    Sole Trim: Standard Trim
    Top: Cut
    Back Stay Leather: Black Rough Out
    Pull Loop: Yes
    Eyelet Color: Brass
    Eyelet Configuration : Hook and Eyelet
    Top Garment: Eyelet
    Lace Design: Lace to Toe
    Lace: Leather
    False Tongue: None
    Sole: Vib 100
    Half Slip: No
    Heel Shape: Curve
    Heel Height: Standard
    Last: 461 Classic Last
    Midsole: Double
    Midsole/Edge Color: Brown
    Size - Length: 9.5
    Size - Width: E


    I have only had these since the beginning of the year, and I haven't worn them in the summer, so I can't say if the leather will lighten over time, but so far the Brown Smooth is very dark in person. Much darker than I was expecting. In fact, it is one of the reasons I am thinking of getting another pair in distressed brown or horse hide because I want something lighter in color.

    Andy B.
     
  11. Okal

    Okal Well-Known Member

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    I believe the horsehide is a Baker's exclusive that is only offered in the Semi-dress boots. You can call or email to confirm that.

    Allan
     
  12. Edmund K

    Edmund K Senior member

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    What is the difference between horsehide and cordovan leather? Is it nearly the same quality as Alden Cordovan?
     
  13. Dbear

    Dbear Senior member

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    cordovan is a horse's butt that has been dyed and tanned for a long long time in a certain way by horween.
     
  14. Jack Hazer

    Jack Hazer Member

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    @ Everyone,

    At some point in time every boot owner will have to clean their boots. I try to wait as long as possible to clean mine with an actual leather cleaner, in part because I have had VERY bad luck with numerous cleaning products (including Lexol Leather Cleaner). On my most precious pairs I refuse to use such products, and use conditioning/cleaning products like Bick 4 Conditioner. With that said, what products does everyone use AND how do they apply it? (Please let me know if you do use Lexol, and if so what is your method?)

    Jack
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2013
  15. sleepy94

    sleepy94 Well-Known Member

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    I have had good results with fiebings saddle soap lately, warm water and a soft brush works up a nice lather then wipe off dirt and soap with a damp cloth. I let them dry for 24 hours then apply obenaufs hd and let that soak in overnight. Brush the next day with a horsehair brush and I'm done. On dress boots that don't get that dirty I'll use saphir renovator applied with a soft cotton cloth, this cleans really well, then brush once dry, apply a good creme polish and if I want them really shiny apply a wax after that
     
  16. meso

    meso Senior member

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    I never use saddle soap because it dries leather out too much.
     
  17. Okal

    Okal Well-Known Member

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    Yes, there is a big difference, although the "horsehide" White's uses is incredibly nice and has more character than shell cordovan. True shell cordovan is only produced in the USA by Horween, and is from the butt hide of a horse. The special, complex tanning process produces comparatively small "shells" of hide that are very dense and have special properties that make them ideal in certain applications, such as some boots and shoes. Here is a video where you can learn much more about this remarkable (and expensive) leather.

    A pair of White's semi-dress boots made from shell cordovan cost about twice as much as a pair of SDs in the "horsehide". When I was growing up, cordovan was just a little more expensive than calf hide and lasted much longer, so my parents always bought me cordovan dress shoes to SAVE MONEY because I couldn't wear them out as quickly!

    Allan
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  18. Edmund K

    Edmund K Senior member

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    Thanks for the info Allan! It is a nice description about cordovan leather. This is hysterical to buy cordovan shoe to save money. love it.
     
  19. LeftysRock

    LeftysRock Member

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    Worked with Kyle at Bakers over the past few weeks and just finalized the order:

    Black Shark
    Standard last
    Black eyelets with hooks
    Black liner - cut off top
    Black heal and edges
    Medallion toe cap
    Standard Cuban heel
    Size 9.5 D
    No pull tab
    Double stitching
    Regular leather sole
    Single mid-sole

    We were not able to find any pictures of SD's in black shark so I am not sure what they will end up looking like. I guess I will find out in 3 or 4 months. [​IMG]
     
  20. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    Location:
    Hoboken
    Love the leap of faith - good luck!
     

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