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Neognosis

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Some thoughts... I am afraid I have come off as anti-CXL, but I just don't like it for PNW (real) boots. In boat shoes or chukkas or fashion boots, go for it, but know its limitations. Too many people pray at the alter of CXL without really understanding it.
THat quote is from LegalEagles. I agree COMPLETELY.

I also agree about British Tan.
 

miggyramone

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Some thoughts... I am afraid I have come off as anti-CXL, but I just don't like it for PNW (real) boots. In boat shoes or chukkas or fashion boots, go for it, but know its limitations. Too many people pray at the alter of CXL without really understanding it.

So, need a brown boot with no lining...

1) Brown Dress... yes it is dark, and yes in low light is can look at first glance like black, but it is really not hard to tell that it is brown... and even if it did appear black, black with chinos is not a bad look. The brown dress will age and become more clearly brown, and the lighter brown may show through the surface layer...some people like this look.

2) Brown Oil Tan - this is a workboot leather, no need to line it, and it is underrated because it can be brushed up to a nice glow...if you use saddle soap to remove some of the surface oil, you can even shine it. Not much depth of character but hella tough.

3) British Tan - This is technically a CXL, but does not behave exactly like CXL... it start a nice dark tan or brown and goes over to brown as it ages. If I had to have CXL, this is what I would pick.

If it were me, I would get the leather you really want, and if it is lined, so be it. If I relocated to the tropics, I would likely not be wearing any PNW boots, and if I did, I would order another pair unlined if and when I needed them.

For aesthetics, the best looking leathers are thinner, and need to be lined... that is just the way it is...

Also consider this... oil tan leather is 8oz... Brown Dress and CXL are about 6 oz. HH and French Calf are 5 oz... the leather liner is 4 oz. So if you go HH and liner, you are looking at 9 oz of leather in the shaft... if you went brown oil tan alone, you are looking at 8 oz... not a big difference.

Bottom line, of all the choices above, if you need brown and need unlined and you need a modicum of "dressy", there is no better leather in the lineup than brown dress... sure it is dark, but it is not black, and even if it were, that is not the end of the world, plus it ages beautifully.

Good luck.
Hey man, this was a really good write up. Lots of great info here.
 

Netvine

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Just to echo what LE said, but also wanted to add that even though it is possible to order Dress Leather unlined, it is my experience that the vamp will be lined. Just wanted to clarify that for any reader as I wasn't positive when I ordered.

Smooth leathers can Be built soft toed with an unlined vamp. This does help me with keeping cool working in the sun. The Dress leather by Whites is softer and much lighter. Also, it is my opinion that White’s Black Dress leather is tougher than most leather used on work boots by off the rack companies. That being said I am leaving for work now, working outside this morning in unlined Black Dress Farmer/Ranchers.
 

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chicken1616

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Generally speaking, I agree with the comments about CXL. In a casual boot, as long as you keep up with it, it is nice. Would never have it on a boot seeing hard use. One thing I think works well would be a CXL upper with other leather vamps and counters. The uppers don't see the abrasion the lowers do.
 

chicken1616

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I know they make CXL jackets but they are in lighter weights. I would like a jacket in the same weight CXL they use in the boots. That would be sweet.
 

linafelt

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Not to deny what's been said above about CXL, but I would add that my black CXL BHs have held up much better over the past five years of wear than I expected. Yes, I wouldn't wear them on a construction site or use them to dig irrigation ditches, but they are more hard-wearing than I would have thought for casual wear and even light-duty work.
 

miggyramone

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Nice to know about the black CXL. I have almost pulled the trigger on various black cxl boots in the past but am turned off by the top layer getting scuffed off to show tan.

While I'm on this topic - Does black dress leather do this too?
 

iamntbatman

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I'm totally turned on by that feature, actually. If I were ever to own a boot in CXL plain ol' black is probably what I'd want for that very reason.Now brown CXL is something I really can't grasp the hype for.
 

discomute

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Just to echo what LE said, but also wanted to add that even though it is possible to order Dress Leather unlined, it is my experience that the vamp will be lined. Just wanted to clarify that for any reader as I wasn't positive when I ordered.

Smooth leathers can Be built soft toed with an unlined vamp. This does help me with keeping cool working in the sun. The Dress leather by Whites is softer and much lighter. Also, it is my opinion that White’s Black Dress leather is tougher than most leather used on work boots by off the rack companies. That being said I am leaving for work now, working outside this morning in unlined Black Dress Farmer/Ranchers.
So I am a bit confused about this - are you saying that unlined dress leathers are only unlined in the upper?
 

PACostag

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correct me if i'm wrong, but I think all boots come with a vamp liner, it's just part of the construction. where as the optional "liner" is for the upper only.
 

Netvine

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And an unlined brown smooth / brown oil tan would be unlined in both the vamp and the upper?
Yes, I have unlined Brown Smooth Bounty Hunters and there is no lining in the vamp and upper. It is much thicker and heavier Then Black Dress and Brown Smooth does scuff, but easy to brush it smooth.
 

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