Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[skeen7908]

I'm new to White's

Can someone help me decide between the MP service boot and the Bounty Hunters?
The MP service boot is a bit more sleek?

 

[iamntbatman]

The MP has a few customization options, but it will always have the same last, same height, same single row of stitching, etc., so maintains the same look no matter what you do with it - something comparable to other service boots like Viberg or Truman but with an even beefier build.

The Smokejumper/Bounty Hunter has a whole lot more customization options - lasts, height, lace to toe or plain toe, combo leathers, way more soles, close trim or wide (i.e. two-row stitchdown or one), more leather options, standard curved heel or a block heel, raised or lowered heels, etc., so can take on a lot of different looks. All of the different lasts you can choose from are less sleek than the MP's barrie last, so no matter what you choose with all of those options, this is going to have more of a workboot profile than the MP's sleeker service boot profile. People say the MP also doesn't have quite the same arch support as the smokejumper/bounty hunter, but I'm still waiting on my MPs to show up so I can't confirm this personally.

I'd play around on Build-A-Boot on Baker's, see if you can come up with a Bounty Hunter build that really speaks to you. Then, look at photos of other people's bounty hunters and try to imagine what your custom job would look like. There are a decent number of MP photos floating around by now.

 

[SouthNarc]

All of the different lasts you can choose from are less sleek than the MP's barrie last, so no matter what you choose with all of those options, this is going to have more of a workboot profile than the MP's sleeker service boot profile.

This is something I was back and forth on because I'm completely sold on the comfort of the 55 last but wanted a sleeker boot. So I actually was able to make a comparison side by side of an SD with close trim and an M&P and there's no appreciable difference really subjectively speaking. At least not enough for me to warrant giving up the all day comfort of the 55.

I just ordered two pair of SDs from Baker's both in close trim, and I'll post pics when they get in.

 

[linafelt]

I haven't seen any MPs in person, but in pics they look much less "workboot-like" to me. I guess I'd say sleeker... I prefer the 55 shape.

 

[Rymanocerous]

I haven't seen any MPs in person, but in pics they look much less "workboot-like" to me. I guess I'd say sleeker... I prefer the 55 shape.

It's a commonly spread misconception that frustrates me. The MP is still very work boot. Is it a smoke jumper? No, but it's more of an IR style and look, but less clown shaped and more actual work capable. It's a tank of a boot, hence my exception to it being in a Lifestyle category.

 

[mlwdp]

How tough is French Calf leather to abrasions etc? Especially on bounty hunters and MP?

 

[b1lf]

How tough is French Calf leather to abrasions etc? Especially on bounty hunters and MP?

It will likely retreat and surrender.

 

[gte872h]

It's a commonly spread misconception that frustrates me. The MP is still very work boot. Is it a smoke jumper? No, but it's more of an IR style and look, but less clown shaped and more actual work capable. It's a tank of a boot, hence my exception to it being in a Lifestyle category.
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Haven’t seen the MP in person but I thought it was like from the Viberg 110 to 2030 last is to semi dress to Barrie lasted MPs. Since you have both boots is the MP on the Barrie last bulkier than the Viberg 2030?

 

[gte872h]

How tough is French Calf leather to abrasions etc? Especially on bounty hunters and MP?

I’ve heard Sambam say their calfskin is quite thick since it needs to be able to withstand being on a rugged White’s boot. All said it’s still calfskin so I wouldn’t imagine it would holdup great compared to their other leather options.

 

[ZenSilk]

My thoughts on White's lasts and boot profiles...

The toe on the MP is also going to play a part in the top-down silhouette of the boot/last. A structured toe is going to look less narrow, maybe even less pointy for lack of a better word, than an unstructured toe. Same goes for a cap toe vs. unstructured. I would also venture a guess that the weight of the leather may also play a part in this, for example black oiled smooth vs. black dress. The dress leather is pretty thin, therefore naturally less bulk is present, which would equate to adding width to the toe.

The modified Barrie seems more sleek in the toe than the 55, but if you compared BH and MP models with unstructured toes you will find that both actually can look pretty sleek, definitely sleeker than their structured toe counterpart.

On top of this, the unstructured lighter-weight leather (black dress for example) when unlined is going to be as sleek as possible, at least for a pair of White's.

Check out my pair of MP's for example: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/custom-whites-boots-thoughts.219173/page-757#post-9413994.

Now, see these unstructured BH's: #1
.

But, then, see these unstructured BH's: #2
.

#1 has a toe that looks structured, but once the owner starts wearing them in they start to show the unstructured toe crease. The toe might look rounder because of the thick CXL and the lining, meaning the toe is being given a rounder shape from the lining.

#2 has no lining, and the toe looks sleeker. Both 1 and 2 on the 55 last, both using CXL (which may differ in weights, but White's/Bakers usually used thick CXL).

The dress leather in by boots in noticeably less robust, and thinner, than any CXL boots I have. It feels more akin to calf, but even then not as robust (different finish, texture, creasing characteristics). It feels more brittle when compared to oil-rich leathers. Ohh boy does it look sleek, and it is so damn comfortable! The black dress leather also stands up to the elements, abrasion, scratches, and most importantly dog claws. I wear my MP's four or more times a week, which currently involves slogging through snow, slush, water, mud and getting stomped on by dogs who are covered in all of the aforementioned earthly concoctions. CXL would be absolutely trashed with surface scratches, but this dress leather seems to be invulnerable.

 

[Rymanocerous]

Haven’t seen the MP in person but I thought it was like from the Viberg 110 to 2030 last is to semi dress to Barrie lasted MPs. Since you have both boots is the MP on the Barrie last bulkier than the Viberg 2030?

I haven’t handled the 110 but the 2030 is much more sleek. By a lot. The overall boot is a more slevte profile but the toe as mentioned above plays a huge role. The 2030 has a long almond shape toe vs the MPs very blunt, round toe. Midsole footprint is also a hair wider on the MP which adds to the bulkier look. This is why I was asking Sambam if there were different toe options for the MP. If they could contour it a little more it would really fit a true lifestyle role and would be the ideal boot (IMHO).

 

[Legal Eagles]

The black dress leather also stands up to the elements, abrasion, scratches, and most importantly dog claws. I wear my MP's four or more times a week, which currently involves slogging through snow, slush, water, mud and getting stomped on by dogs who are covered in all of the aforementioned earthly concoctions. CXL would be absolutely trashed with surface scratches, but this dress leather seems to be invulnerable.

I agree with this... White's black and brown dress are incredible leathers for what you pay... abrasion resistant, looks great, takes a shine, ages well, about everything one could ask from a leather... and while they are thinner than the work leathers, thinner does not mean "thin". At about 6oz... these may look like dress leather, but they are good to go for any task you may put them to.

Truly underappreciated leathers... the only downside is that they only come in black and brown... I would love to see a leather with the same physical characteristics, but in tan or even burgundy... the closest is French Calf, but the last time I tried to order tan or burgundy french calf, I was told by Bakers that these colors were no longer avaible.

White's French calf, while thicker than most shoemakers french calf, and while looking great, does not have the durability of their black and brown dress...

 

[Frizzleburger]

I created a post earlier with this same question, but I think it may be seen by more people here. I recently purchased a pair of Whites Bounty Hunters in HH from Baker. They are a size 10c and they fit perfectly. I am interested in the John Lofgren Devils Causeway engineer boots. I have never tried on a Lofgren boot and am seeking advise on which size I shall go for. Thanks in advance. Pictures of my Whites after about a week of use will be coming shortly.

 

[ZenSilk]

I created a post earlier with this same question, but I think it may be seen by more people here. I recently purchased a pair of Whites Bounty Hunters in HH from Baker. They are a size 10c and they fit perfectly. I am interested in the John Lofgren Devils Causeway engineer boots. I have never tried on a Lofgren boot and am seeking advise on which size I shall go for. Thanks in advance. Pictures of my Whites after about a week of use will be coming shortly.

I'm not sure if this is the correct place to inquire as to sizing of other brands (not chastising!).

I think you should reach out to the peeps at Standard and Strange, they work very closely with Lofgren himself and offer fantastic sizing advice and will work hard to get you into a pair that fits you perfectly.

 

[Frizzleburger]

I'm not sure if this is the correct place to inquire as to sizing of other brands (not chastising!).

I think you should reach out to the peeps at Standard and Strange, they work very closely with Lofgren himself and offer fantastic sizing advice and will work hard to get you into a pair that fits you perfectly.

I posted here because Whites are the only brand that I can compare to. I was hoping someone here that owns a pair of Whites would also own a pair of Lofgrens and would simply advise on a size. Thanks