• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

ThreeLions

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2018
Messages
154
Reaction score
345
In all of my shoes (especially Danners) I take a 14. The Branock device measures me as a 14 B. In White’s I’m a 12 C or D. Go figure.
 

andy b.

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Messages
503
Reaction score
207
In your experience, what is White's toughest light brown or tan leather? Bonus points if it takes a shine... looking for something with the wear profile of brown dress but in tan... British Tan is more brown than tan, and being chromexcel is susceptible to scuffs and will not take a satisfactory shine. I have been informed that tan french calf is not available... and bull hide is not formal enough, and water buffalo (not a fan) is not durable enough...any suggestions?
From what Kyle told me the Distressed Tan would be the toughest non-black or non-dark brown leather. In fact, it may even be the thickest of all Whites leathers.
 

iamntbatman

Senior Member
Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
332
Reaction score
413
Yep. Just heard back from Kyle, who says 9F. Sounds a lot more realistic than 11F to me!

Can anyone confirm that 1k mile sizing is the same as the SD? Thanks!
Dunno about the 1k sizing, but that sounds far more realistic to me.
 

JustinW

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
10,243
Reaction score
1,568
Does anyone have a pic of the Burgundy French Calf? How does it compare to Horween CXL8?

EDIT: Nevermind - I found pics!
 
Last edited:

Legal Eagles

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
975
Reaction score
1,817
Does anyone have a pic of the Burgundy French Calf? How does it compare to Horween CXL8?

EDIT: Nevermind - I found pics!
I was told by Kyle that Burgundy French Calf is no longer available and has no estimate of when it may return, if ever.
 

honestpanda

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 8, 2017
Messages
1,187
Reaction score
2,108
Now that White's offers waxed flesh, this question is germane to the thread. For those of you with waxed flesh boots (any brand... I assume all the leather comes from Horween) a/k/a french waxed calf or "Huntsman" in the Horween catalogue, how do you care for them. This leather was popular in olde tyme days for bespoke hunting boots, and the best makers recommended boning them with the leg bone of a red deer to maintain appearance.

I have heard of boning shell cordovan, and deer legs for that are readily available... but what it the technique for the waxed flesh? What product do you use, or do you simply rely on the oils in the bone. Most discussion of deer leg boning involves shell, I assume the procedure for waxed flesh is similar? Does anyone know for sure? Any guides or videos to which I should refer specifically for waxed flesh?

Thanks in advance...
I believe it also requires the application of a dyed wax aswell and using the deer bone (I’ve also read using the backside of a spoon) to work the wax into the leather. Though I’ve never done anything to my pair of waxed flesh vibergs as I prefer the patina and distressed look.
 

RickyTylerson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2012
Messages
83
Reaction score
37
I don’t think you can compare sizes with shoes that don’t have a high arch like white’s. I normally size according to brannock heel to ball- 11.5b. Whites measures your heel to ball with your foot relaxed with no pressure. I’m guessing to put the foot in the position that the arch ease creates. Therefore in whites I wear a 10.5b. I’d listen to what Kyle says for sizing and forget about what size your other shoes are.
 

clowkoy

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
10
Reaction score
45
Hello!
First post on this thread .
I received my second pair of dress boots today but I am disappointed with the work. I ordered the standard trim (double stitching) but it came with single stitching and there appeared a second stitching but was removed (see stitching holes).
I am returning this boot. I don’t know what happened to this.
I already sent an email.
IMG_7089.JPG
 

TH3515

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
484
Reaction score
503
^ Weird. I wonder how these boots could ever make it out the door at White‘s.
 

JustinW

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
10,243
Reaction score
1,568
Another question for you all:

What are the pros/cons of water buffalo?

What would be the most noticeable differences between water buffalo and cxl in terms of appearance, wear and durability?

Thanks!
 

Legal Eagles

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
975
Reaction score
1,817
Another question for you all:

What are the pros/cons of water buffalo?

What would be the most noticeable differences between water buffalo and cxl in terms of appearance, wear and durability?

Thanks!
In my opinion only:

WB is a pure dress leather... it is thin, and shiny and will take a polish. The surface seems "plasticky" to me, but it creases nicely.

I am not a fan of it, and would take french calf any day over WB for a formal boot, and Brown Dress in a boot destined for hard use, which WB is not.

It seemed OK for a dress boot, but is always felt thin or "fragile" compared to other boot choices.

Here are a couple of my posts on the subject, I stand by my position... I don't hate WB, I just don't like it as much as other leathers.

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/custom-whites-boots-thoughts.219173/page-672#post-9078884

CXL is thicker and waxy where WB is thin and shiny. WB will take a polish, I have never been able to get CXL to polish to my standards.
CXL will show wear and scuffs but will brush out... WB is for dress, CXL is more casual. I really don't care for either, but if I had to choose one for a casual boot, it would be CXL (but I would still secretly desire horsehide or french calf or even brown dress).
 
Last edited:

JustinW

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
10,243
Reaction score
1,568
^ Thanks very much! I really appreciate the response to my newb questions here.

Just one more (for today, at least!): What is the appeal of horsehide? It looks like a rich golden colored oily pull-up leather, but it seems to be so popular I have a feeling I am missing something. How would it differ from, say, the British tan?
 

Legal Eagles

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
975
Reaction score
1,817
^ Thanks very much! I really appreciate the response to my newb questions here.

Just one more (for today, at least!): What is the appeal of horsehide? It looks like a rich golden colored oily pull-up leather, but it seems to be so popular I have a feeling I am missing something. How would it differ from, say, the British tan?
Ahhh Horsehide ("HH")... how do I love thee? Let me count the ways:
1) Surface Appearance - Rich brown (or black) with a visual depth uneqaled by any other leather, CXL included.
2) Abrasion Resistance - Hella stout... not the thickest leather, but the most abrasion resistant I have owned... just plain tough... it laughs off scuffs and scratches... encounters with curbs or briars that would leave CXL looking like it went 10 rounds with @linafelt 's motorcycle don't even phase it, and it shrugs its equine shoulders in disdain at the horror created by office chair wheels.
3) Aging - without polish HH takes on a unique "sheen" hard to describe, other than to liken it to a deep warm glow... a glow which just gets better with time... add polish and the HH can be worked to a mirror shine. This is a dense leather that ages more slowly and becomes more "mellow" than cowhide.
4) Creasing - instead of taking on creases like cowhide, both pairs of my horsehide boots have "microcreases" for lack of a better word, giving the leather a unique look up close.
5) Smell - OK, so we don't smell our boots too often, but those of you with HH boots know what I mean... they have a distinctive and very pleasant aroma... similar to how I remember shoe-stores smelling from my youth... different than cowhide.
6) Versatility - shine them, don't shine them, brush them, don't brush them, polish them, don't polish them... your choice. They can be work boots, casual boots, or (almost with block heel and toe caps) dress boots. No other leather is so versatile IMHO.
7) I just love the entire package that HH brings to the table... it does everything I want or need and does it well.

Neither pair I have (one brown, one black) act like pull-up leather or waxed or oil impregnated. HH seems closer to french calf or brown dress in that the surface is fairly hard, and polishes up easily. British Tan is a CXL leather, and as such has a soft surface, shows scratches and scuffs, as well as water spots IMHO, and I cannot for the life of me get it to take a good mirror shine. As you can see from my comments above when it comes to durability there is no comparison. HH on a man's boot is like what CXL aspires to be when it grows up.

CXL is fine for boat shoes, bluchers, and some dandy east coast dress boots, but a real boot deserves a real boot leather... again my opinion only.

I have said it before, and I will say it again, if I could only have one pair of White's boots in one of their standard leathers, it would be brown HH... if I were allowed a second pair, it would be black HH.

It costs a premium, but to me it is worth it.
 
Last edited:

chicken1616

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
497
Reaction score
269
In my opinion only:

WB is a pure dress leather... it is thin, and shiny and will take a polish. The surface seems "plasticky" to me, but it creases nicely.

I am not a fan of it, and would take french calf any day over WB for a formal boot, and Brown Dress in a boot destined for hard use, which WB is not.

It seemed OK for a dress boot, but is always felt thin or "fragile" compared to other boot choices.

Here are a couple of my posts on the subject, I stand by my position... I don't hate WB, I just don't like it as much as other leathers.

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/custom-whites-boots-thoughts.219173/page-672#post-9078884

CXL is thicker and waxy where WB is thin and shiny. WB will take a polish, I have never been able to get CXL to polish to my standards.
CXL will show wear and scuffs but will brush out... WB is for dress, CXL is more casual. I really don't care for either, but if I had to choose one for a casual boot, it would be CXL (but I would still secretly desire horsehide or french calf or even brown dress).
I agree with all of this.
A little more to add. WB, at first, looks "plasticky" or almost artificial like. But it does crease very nicely, and when it does, it takes on a different look. I would say it looks like the leather on well used, but very well taken care of, dress shoes from 50 years ago. It does seem thin, but, at least at this point for me, doesn't seem less durable. It certainly is probably best for a more "formal" occasion, such as an office situation, or summer semi-formal. I think for the right person, and situation, it can make for a nice pair of boots.
I love the way CXL feels, but I think it also doesn't really belong on footwear. I would love to have a jacket made of the weight of CXL White's uses.
On White's, using CXL in the upper would be a good move, but not on the vamps and counters.
 

Legal Eagles

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
975
Reaction score
1,817
I agree with all of this.
A little more to add. WB, at first, looks "plasticky" or almost artificial like.
"Artificial" is a good way to put it... I agree... Now all of the above being said, can you think of a situation where you would actively recommend WB over French Calf? I cannot, therefore I have no use for WB...
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Work From Home: What's Your Attire?

  • PJs & Slippers

  • Cozy loungewear

  • Casual outfit (wool cardigan, chinos, etc)

  • Suit or sport coat and dress trousers


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
451,982
Messages
9,786,352
Members
204,223
Latest member
digihightech
Top