Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. battmest

    battmest Member

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    Natural is standard? Or the stained/darker sole?
     
  2. Whacky

    Whacky Active Member

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    Its been a long time since I've been back to this thread since I started it way back when.
    I love my semi-dress boots that I had custom made.

    Now looking at getting a new pair. Something different.
    Was thinking about a farmer-rancher or a smoke jumper and was wondering the same question as above?

    Does anyone have any specifics as to what is different between the two models?
    Different last? fit, etc? I have looked at pictures of both models in the 6 inch boot and Its hard for me to see the difference.


    I'm thinking about going for a soft toe, and a more casual look. Lighter brown either distressed smooth, or natural chromexcel if possible.

    Anyone have any experience with a soft toe?
    Coming form the standard brown dress leather, will the Natural Chromexcel be a lot softer, or forgiving?

    any thoughts would be appreciated.
     
  3. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    Okay, still trying to figure out my options and could use some advice from the board. I am going probably for a Black boot (either Semi-Dress or that new 2012 Classic Dress) with cap toe. Any advice or pics to help me choose between

    -- Chromexcel
    -- Black smooth
    -- Black Horse Hide

    Though I may also ought to look at the classic Brown Dress, since it seems in some pictures I've seen to be very close to Black.

    Again, any advice, descriptions of experience, or pics are much appreciated.

    Thanks.
     
  4. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    I find the Chromexcel to be the ideal boot leather. It is thick, durable, and feels great. It is my personal favorite leather so far, it is very non-restrictive. I would actually recommend getting a boot in it unlined as the 1000 mile boot is done.
     
  5. planetarium

    planetarium Senior member

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    Here's a breakdown of the basic White's boots, starting with the Smoke Jumper and trying to provide reference points:

    Smoke Jumper - The standard boot for firefighting, adapted to many other uses. Has a soft bellows tongue and a large lug sole that is both stitched and screwed on. Can be made in any height starting at 6" and can be lined or unlined.

    Farmer/Rancher - Identical to the Smoke Jumper, save for a flat composition sole or mini-lug.

    Classic Work Boot - A farmer/rancher with a 90 degree block heel and the C641 last which features an upturned toe.

    Bounty Hunter - Identical to the Smoke Jumper, save for being built on the lower profile last of the semi-dress. Typically comes with a flat composition or mini-lug sole, but one could be built with the large lug.

    Packer - A farmer/rancher with a western last and heel.

    Semi-Dress - A 5" height boot with a lower profile last. As far as I have seen (I do not own any) it does not use a bellows tongue and comes with flat laces.

    Retro Semi-Dress / Americana - It's not exactly clear how they make these distinct from the standard semi-dress, but often they feature a 90 degree block heel.

    Hopefully that clears up some of the issues people have with White's admittedly esoteric distinctions.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012
  6. battmest

    battmest Member

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    That was super helpful. I didn't realize most of the boots are sort of based off the smokejumper, but that certainly makes sense.

    Can anyone tell me if the default midsole is the light "natural" leather or the darker sole? Grazi
     
  7. planetarium

    planetarium Senior member

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    I believe the default is natural. If you really want to be sure, contact Kyle at Baker's or use buildaboot.com which is super helpful, though some of the features do not display correctly (top garment, lace to toe).
     
  8. Whacky

    Whacky Active Member

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    So what last is used for the farmer-rancher and the smoke jumper?
    Any other differences between that and the Semi Dress?

    I feel as if I read once that the farmer-rancher and smoke jumper were more narrow at the distal toe area?

    And to fully explain, the "lower profile" of the Semi Dress is what exactly?
    The toe area is slimmer in height, and not as bulky? Or did you mean anything else?
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012
  9. planetarium

    planetarium Senior member

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    The Semi-Dress last has a slimmer toe height.

    The last you find on the Smoke Jumper or Farmer Rancher is usually called "Standard". There is a last called the 38 Swing that has a slightly roomier toe box.

    The Northwest last is different from the others in that it doesn't feature the intense arch support that White's is known for.
     
  10. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

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    to recap, SmokeJumper & FarmerRancher are both on Smoke Jumper Last. the only difference is the sole. SJs are always on Vibram #100 lug soles.




    no default on MTOs, obviously.
    however, edge color default on production models are usually based on the top leather color ... ie, light brown=natural trim, dark brown=darker trim, etc.

    recently, new models are coming out with contrast trims, so default can also be based per model.
     
  11. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

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    you need to ask yourself what you want out of your boots. you want 'em spiff & polished, or more rugged &/or distressed?
    eg, CXL is soft @getgo & can easily broken in & gives that distressed look when worn in. however, it stretches quite a bit, so you need to keep that in mind when sizing.

    my friend got the standard black SD HH while i opted on the brown version on "Swing" last. the leather is quite nice, actually. will mosdef post how both boots turn out.
     
  12. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    Medallion water buffalo toe cap SD[​IMG]
     
  13. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    Thanks for the feedback on leathers so far. I am still thinking them through, and any pictures would be appreciated.

    I have a good sense of the Chromexcel, both looks and the character of the leather. But I am not sure about Black Smooth Leather. Kyle from Bakers described as "the thickest and toughest" of White's leathers, which sounds good to me. I figure that means it takes longer to break in than Chronexcel, which would be fine. But I have not seen many pictures or descriptions of it. Can any one help? I guess I am sort of picturing it as similar to Doc Martens black leather, but I don't know if that's right.

    Also, has anyone had experience with White's in Calfskin?
    So many choices...

    Thanks!
     
  14. Jack Hazer

    Jack Hazer Member

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    Has anyone every seen a pair of SDs with a double leather sole, single mid sole, standard trim, and a boxed 90 degree heel (lowered 1/4")? I want to order a pair with this configuration if it doesn't look funny.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2012
  15. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    My water buffalo red cherry and dark brown two tone


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2012

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