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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. gregornz

    gregornz Senior member

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    ^ That rough-out/smooth combo does look great. I prefer two-tones that have a minimal clash.

    What is the leather there in the second pic? It looks too dark for brown smooth...?
     
  2. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    @broken_oracle , Sounds to me like you may want to go with the classic dress brown leather. By all accounts it is pretty hardwearing, and I think it fits well in both work and slightly dressier contexts. And you wouldn't need to line it. There are not many pics of the HH with real wear as you say, though i recall seeing one before and slightly after pic, which I will see if I can find tomorrow. My memory is that it picks up a lot of wear quickly. No doubt more durable than CXL, as you say, but equally susceptible to aesthetic wear perhaps.

    Sizewise, my own experience is that White's feels a half size long compared to brannock, but more narrow than I expected, so I'd go with the E width.

    Yeah, some people really dislike the Swing last, which provides extra width, because in some pics it seems a little shapeless. But there are pics from a few months back of a pair of SDs in brown dress on the Swing last, with captoes, which look really great I think -- check 'em out.

    Have fun!
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. broken_oracle

    broken_oracle Senior member

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    @CityofChamps - love that 3rd pair (Any idea of the leather there?). Not so much a fan, aesthetically, of the roofer's style (lace-to-toe), but if your footbones require that for a proper fit then have at it! On, and socks - the Redheads are also Made in the USA, which I dig.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2014
  4. TH3515

    TH3515 Senior member

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    Looks like brown smooth to me in both pics. It can be pretty dark, almost verging on black in some places (in my boots for example, in the areas under the arch). But generally more like a rich chestnut brown. Out of the box, the colour on mine was pretty bland and the leather appeared a little dry, probably because the boots had been sitting in their box for 1-2 years before I bought them (the mfg date is stamped next to the size). Colour depth and luster returned immediately when I treated them with the supplied conditioner.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    Ah, now thats what it is!!!
     
  6. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    Thanks - dug out an old mail from Kyle- plain toe is the same size in BH or SJ...there`s one on ebay that tickles my fancy...
     
  7. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    Yeah, I was told that too, but in my experience (and I think others') the standard SJ last feels tighter in the toebox than the SD (or Bounter Hunter)... which surprised me, but there it is.
     
  8. CityofChamps

    CityofChamps Well-Known Member

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    What does the LTT do to the toe box on the boot? If I get the F/R (SJ last) and opt for LTT does that make it tighter or more narrow around the toes compared to the standard toe?

    @b-ewing - I know you have LTT and have been around here a while any insight on fit?
     
  9. LouieBailie

    LouieBailie Senior member

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    LTT does not alter toe box just allows one to tighten it up if you want a real tight fit.

    It was designed for firefighting/electrical/welding work. Where the front of the boot needs to be tight in order to not allow hot/burning debris into the lacing area to burn into the toe box.
     
  10. LouieBailie

    LouieBailie Senior member

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    To the guy ordering horse hide boots:

    If you wear shell cordovan or a pair of horsehide boots/shoes the have a tendency to stretch, so have a taylor measure your feet with the socks you wear or be prepared to stretch them on your own with a Cametti.

    Whites has the forms, nicks has the forms, russel moccasin has the forms, then sent in to Whites with your order and they will make the boots out of the leather you chose and allow for no, or stretch. Cap toes and double cel toe boxes affect the leathers ability to stretch also. Keep that in mind.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  11. broken_oracle

    broken_oracle Senior member

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    Thanks @LouieBailie - yes, I have the foot tracing form from a White's catalog, was planning on doing that in my boot socks along with the 10 to 18 different foot measurements they want (depending on boot height). Good point about the celastic toe preventing some stretching in the horsehide.
     
  12. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    My sense though is that stretching rarely takes place in the toe box but rather is due to lace tightening. I wouldn't worry about it in the toebox. (Actually, I remember taking a pair of boots to a cobbler to get stretched, and he said the probably couldn't make any difference in the toe box even on the stretching machine..)

    As far as tracings, they definitely do not always work. I sent mine, and White's recommended 9.5D, but I had just tried that on and it was quite tight. Then tried on an SJ in 9.5E and THAT was tight. Ended up with 9.5EE, though I think in the SD last 9.5E would have been fine.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. broken_oracle

    broken_oracle Senior member

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    hmm. Haven't yet contacted Baker's about an order, but was hoping I'd be able to have them send White's boots to try on in the requested size, width & last before a custom ordered is placed. Sounds like folks here have done that before... I assume some deposit/purchase or at least credit card info is first required.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
  14. mogili222

    mogili222 Senior member

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    So my next pair is going to be a BH in Brown Oil. I was going back and forth betwen the Brown Oil, Red Dog and the Bristish Tan. Called Whites and they said that the British Tan is a CXL leather in 4-6 oz. So took that out of the choices as I wanted the heavier leather. Loved some of the boots in the Red Dog leather but after looking at a more pictures, there seems to be a lot more red in the leather than I like. The standard Brown seems to be a safe choice in this regard.

    Now the only thing I have to decide is if I should go with the lining or not. Whites said that the lining they use is 4 oz. What exactly is the use of the lining in boots? Is it for insulation? Does it make the boots too warm to wear in the summer? What are some of the other pros and cons of the lining?

    I know I have been asking a lot of questions lately and I appreciate the responses I have been getting. I just want to make sure my next pair is close to a perfect fit.
     
  15. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    The lining is used for various reasons - some leathers inside are rougher than others, some more delicate (water buffalo), some oiled and hence it serves various functions. I would not say it serves as insulation as such, but as an extra layer, could have some effect. I don't think it changes the boots feel in the summer, on the contrary it helps to absorb moisture. It`s an extra layer that helps takes your foots form, and I find gives a better fit. Some prefer the liner, some don't. I personally do, and find the white/beige is super supple, and extra comfortable.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    Hear hear. Whites first advised a 10D, and I ordered with them...I was floating in those...not even a thick hiking sock could correct them. I`m now fitting comfortably in a 9D. And guess what, I had to try the 9 1/2 at my own expense too...two sizes out! Not happy about this. Nothing better than a brick and mortar fitting.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
  17. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    I am as sure as I can be that the British Tan is NOT a CXL. I mean, one hates to contradict White's themselves, but the truth is they are pretty sloppy sometimes in their question-answering. I have always understood, and I think others will know too, that the British Tan is the same as Classic Brown, and that it is not a chromed leather. It is a nice, light brown, and I don't know enough about leather tanning to know how it is processed, but I am pretty darn sure it is not CXL and would not have the stretching or fast wear of CXL...
     
  18. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    Pretty sure Baker's will make you pay full price for a try on, but guarantee refund. But they don't seem to have a full stock of boots to send. I had to try on a 10" or so SJ with big lug sole and heels to try to get a sense for my SD order. It helped, but not nearly the same thing.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. b-ewing

    b-ewing Senior member

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    Empty Garage JP advertises british tan as horween cxl, so I'm just plain confused!!

    http://emptygarage.jp/smp/list.php?type=class&group=115037&sort=normal&pict=2&page=1
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2014
  20. linafelt

    linafelt Senior member

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    Well, I certainly don't know for sure, but all their other CXL they clearly labeled as such, and they charge (or at least used to) an extra charge for the CXL, but do neither of these things for Br Tan. And I am holding now my samples of Bl CXL, Br CXL, and Burgundy CXL, along with Br Tan, and the others all stretch easily when pulled, whereas the Br Tan does not. It does however have a natural, untanned back and edge, but so do some of the other non-CXL leathers. Anyway...
     

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