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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. mogili222

    mogili222 Senior member

    Messages:
    557
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    Sep 27, 2011
    I like the IRs and how they fit and do not want anything that is wider than those.. Still going to talk to Kyle and see what he thinks of these.
     
  2. kenucklehead

    kenucklehead Active Member

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    32
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    Dec 16, 2012
    Okay, third time's a charm. First pair came damaged. Second pair not made as requested. Third time, just right.

    Here's the boots after a few days of wear. Thoughts?

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. mogili222

    mogili222 Senior member

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    Sep 27, 2011
    Nice boots.. what are the specs.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  4. kenucklehead

    kenucklehead Active Member

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    32
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    Dec 16, 2012
    Here's the build:

    White's Bounty Hunter

    · Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Chrome Excel by Horween
    · Toe Cap - Leather: Brown Chrome Excel by Horween
    · Celastic Toe Box: Single
    · Heel Counter Leather: Distressed Smooth
    · Height: 8"
    · Upper (Shaft) Leather : Distressed Smooth
    · Leather Liner: Tan
    · Sole Trim: Close Trim
    · Top: Cut
    · Back Stay Leather: Brown Chrome Excel by Horween
    · Pull Loop: Yes
    · Eyelet Color: Nickel
    · Eyelet Configuration : Eyelet
    · Top Garment: Eyelet
    · Lace Design: Plain Toe
    · Lace: Leather
    · Sole: Commando Mini Lug Sole with Vibram 430 heel cap
    · Heel Shape: Block
    · Heel Height: Standard
    · Last: Bounty Hunter (Semi Dress Last)
    · Midsole: Single
    · Midsole/Edge Color: Brown
    · Size – 9 D
     
  5. mystlawer

    mystlawer Member

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    Jun 15, 2013
    Just rec'd an interesting email from White's about their lasts, so figured I would share it below. I have really high arches and instep so fitting boots and dress shoes is problematic. I queried White's about their lasts and here what they said:

    -------------<snip>-------------
    I understand your hesitations. We generally order the boots with the standard last unless otherwise specified. The only other reason we would use a different last if it was not requested, is if we don’t have that size available in that last. I think you would benefit from another last similar to the standard Semi dress last, it is called the 4811. We would use this last if we didn’t have the standard size last available. The 4811 last is more squared in the toe than the standard Semi dress last and the heel is slightly narrower. The arch is higher and the instep and toe area is deeper than the Semi dress as well. Here is a description of each last you were wondering about.

    The standard last for the Semi dress a more narrow toe, than the standard 4811 last, slightly lower arch, swings out on the outside of the foot more than a 4811, less depth to the overall boot (toes and instep) and wider heel than the 4811.

    The 9338 or "swing" last is not highly recommended unless there is a high need. This last has a much lower arch than the 4811 and will not fit the same nor look the same. The toes are very round and swing out wide to the side.

    The C461 or "buffalo" last has a narrow toe that the 4811 and the toe curls or kicks up. Not much depth to the toes or instep.

    I would suggest that you request the 4811 last when you order the boots, I think this will work best. It would be a special order and they would be non-returnable. If for some reason you have any issues with the sizing, we can always do some adjusting. We will stand behind the fit as long as you send in the measurements. We use the measurements to determine a standard size, if you fall outside the standard patterns that is when we have to do a custom boot. I hope this information helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to contact us at any time.
    -------------<snip>-------------

    -<M>-
     
    2 people like this.
  6. TH3515

    TH3515 Senior member

    Messages:
    165
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2013
    Location:
    Somewhere in Germany
    4811 is the Smokejumper last, I think. Was that email regarding a Semi-Dress boot? that would be interesting - I am thinking about a pair of SD as well, but am not sure which last to order. Especially since my Farmer Ranchers (SJ last) fit so well. So I would possibly be better off with a "Reverse Bounty Hunter" (SD on SJ/4811 last). Anyone ever seen a pair like that?
     
  7. mystlawer

    mystlawer Member

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    Jun 15, 2013
    Yes, my query was specific to sizing SDs with my tall/large instep and arch.

    I'll have to drive a bit to an auth retailer who carries SJs to see how they fit. Unfortunately they don't stock SDs but if the Smoke Jumpers fit well I'd have to go the that last.
     
  8. tavoz

    tavoz Active Member

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    29
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    Dec 25, 2012
    Finally posting some pics of my black Horse Hide Semi Dress. Lowered block heel, 269 sole, antique eyelet and hooks, standard last, single midsole.

    The pics show them after one month of wear. The Horse Hide is absolutely great, just as I expected, supple and consistent in the same time, and don't easilly gets scuffed.
    I was really worried about ordering this first pair, for my sizing was so difficult to get. I sent my tracings and measurements to both White's and Baker's a couple of time each, they never ended to find a realistic size for me... At the end, I followed Kyle's opinion, who found me a 9 D. When I got the shoes, I just loved the feeling and comfort... of my left shoe, the right one appeared to feel a little snug. So I've been wearing them daily for one month, waiting for streching to solve the problem, but it never happened. I do know with certaincy now that I size a 9 D on left foot and a 9.5 D on right foot!
    Sooo... I strongly suggest everyone who would have such a doubt -or any doubt- on sizing, to get some "try on boots", to figure out for real. Baker's offer this service, Kyle proposed me to send me a pair, but I prefered to take my chance, just to save the invoice and reinvoice costs ... (I'm in France). Well I shouldn't have.
    Anyway. Those boots are about to go back to Baker's, for a rebuilt of the right one, from 9 D to 9.5 D. And a rebuilt of the heel of both shoes, wich show splitting between vibram sole and leather. Very premature, says Kyle.
    That's all I can say, except that I love my HH semi dress!!!




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  9. RickyTylerson

    RickyTylerson Well-Known Member

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    59
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    Oct 11, 2012
    I prefer the smoke jumper last to the semi dress for sure. I have a wide forefoot that causes me problems and I find the higher arch more comfortable.
     
  10. mogili222

    mogili222 Senior member

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  11. ojaw

    ojaw Senior member

    Messages:
    352
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    Apr 15, 2012
    Location:
    Winnipeg
    Alrighty then, got my SDs today.
    The fit is good, though I think that I would have been ok without the custom option (right foot EE, left foot E)
    People have talked about the Dress leather being a little plasticky, but I like it, looks tough with much potential for waby saby!
    Heads up, and I didn't know this before, but the Swing last has a little less of the arch ease action going on, which is a little disappointing to me.
    That being said, they are very comfortable.

    [​IMG]

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    Can't believe that both these and my new Vibergs work for my paddles!

    Here's the make up:

    White's Semi Dress $389.95
    Brown Dress Leather $0.00
    Single Celastic Toe Box $0.00
    Brown Dress Toe Cap $35.00
    Tan (Reddish Brown) Leather Liner $35.00
    No Pull Loop $0.00
    All Brass Eyelets $0.00
    Standard Trim Sole $0.00
    #269 Sole $0.00
    Standard Heel $0.00
    #38 Swing Last $0.00
    Brown Edge $0.00
    Mismated Sizes: Left-10.5E, Right-10.5EE $0.00
    Full Made to Measure Upcharge $150.00
    Made to the following foot measurements:Left: Instep: 9 1/2'', Heel: 13 1/4'' Right: Instep: 9 3/4'', Heel: 13 1/2'' $0.00
    Shipping (Canada) $29.95
    No Safety Toe $0.00
    All Eyelets $0.00
    Heel Shape-Curve $0.00
    Heel Height-Standard $0.00
    Midsole-Standard Midsole $0.00
    Brown Edge $0.00
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. gfloridafan93

    gfloridafan93 Senior member

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    Dec 28, 2013
    Are all semi dress boots this rounded at the toe?
     
  13. ojaw

    ojaw Senior member

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    Apr 15, 2012
    Location:
    Winnipeg
    No idea, but check the specs: #38 Swing Last - that definitely puts it into a different shape category.
     
  14. ben2t

    ben2t Senior member

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    278
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    Jun 20, 2012
    SD Navy cxl, crappy iphone pic.
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. metarays

    metarays Member

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    11
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    Jan 11, 2014
    Few questions as I start building my White's Semidress setup, help would be greatly appreciated!

    - For heel, is standard the curved one and Traveler's the straight one?

    - I plan on lowering the heel to fit a more Viberg feel, so would either make a difference in casual everyday wear?

    - Are Antique the standard eyes and hooks most people get?

    - Differences between Vibram 269 against 700 for occasional rain wear

    - How would Natural Chromexcel fair in occasional rain in Souther California, meaning max 5 times a year.
     
  16. ojaw

    ojaw Senior member

    Messages:
    352
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    Apr 15, 2012
    Location:
    Winnipeg
    Standard heel is curved.
    You may or may not notice the difference, but White's makes the heel a standard height for a reason. I just got mine (see above) and though some pics may emphasize the height due to perspective or the wide lens used, in real life I can say that it does not make me think of toreros or tangos.
    I went with regular brass and no hooks - it'll age on its own and I tend to rip hooks out by snagging them on cars/dogs/coffee shops et cetera.
    Can't speak to the 269 v 700 thing other than to say the 269 is more discrete.
    Cxl will fare much better than your Gucci loafers in the California sun.
     
  17. metarays

    metarays Member

    Messages:
    11
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    Jan 11, 2014
    Thanks! alright I think I will keep looking at heel heights then, just in some pics it just seems way too tall much for me.
    I like the hooks because I currently have a pair of boots without them and it's a pain to take them off and put them on.
    Why do you say Gucci loafers?
     
  18. tavoz

    tavoz Active Member

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    29
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    Dec 25, 2012
    Well I don't know about ChXcl, but you see HH after one month of daily wear, wich is 10 hours a day, at work. I move and walk quite a lot. I really love HH, really amazing. I have no doubt about it's aging. And I guess creasing is something unavoidable on shoes... What I can say is that the suppleness of HH makes it crease in "soft" angles, I mean you don't feel like the leather is, or will, break at all.
     
  19. ojaw

    ojaw Senior member

    Messages:
    352
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    Apr 15, 2012
    Location:
    Winnipeg
    I mention the loafers because as these boots are made for very tough conditions, they will basically outperform virtually all other footwear out there.
    The boardwalks of Socal are no competition for the forests of the northwest or working farms, et cetera.
    Being leather they will benefit from periodic cleaning and re-oiling, but there's no need to baby them.
     
  20. climbinglife

    climbinglife Senior member

    Messages:
    173
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    Dec 17, 2012
    I love the slightly upturned toe of the 461 last...thats why I got them on my CWB's...looks great :)
     

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