Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[wordfool]

What hardware do you prefer?

Most of my White’s are antique brass. I have one blackout pair (black RO, black edge) with nickel hardware, and my latest (currently being-rebuilt) pair in distressed RO have regular brass, which I’m still in two minds about and might end up antiquing myself if I find it too shiny!

I like the slightly more sleek look of the MPs (long in the toe). And I really dislike the zigzag tongue flap of the BH (personal preference of course). The M1 backstay is a great idea, thanks!

If the zig-zag thing you’re referring to is the kiltie then you have the option of not using it (it’s an extra piece of leather that goes over the tongue and I’ve not used on any of my pairs of BHs). You can also ask for the tongue on the BH to be a half-gusset design like the MP and SD rather than the standard full-gusset

How did you like the black WF? As far as I can tell, it’s surface dyed. My only worry is that it might look too ‘ratty’ with time. I guess rewaxing might help with that, though.

Yes, the black WF is arguably the least interesting as it patinas. It just turns a ratty looking gray color. I guess that’s technically a different shade of black just as the browns and greens of the other WF patina colors are different shades of the waxed original, but gray is just so… gray. Re-waxing is probably easy enough using VSC (which IIRC is what Horween suggests using), but ultimately I’ve decided I prefer roughout and its burnishing-type patina over WF. The one exception might be Olive WF, because green!

 

[wordfool]

I would suggest that Cinnamon WF is more of a rough looking material - so it's more of a "rugged" look than "fashionable" per se. Not that it's bad at all. But, to me, it's an odd vibe to pair with business casual, office - it's more of an outdoor type of leather. For a first pair of quality boots you're planning on wearing to the office, I think you should consider other leathers. And, as mentioned, don't sweat the 1/4" shorter heel - the arch ease works just fine. I have it in one of my pairs and it's not a problem at all.

i tend to agree. Brown dress (or Elk Tan) would be a good option for an all-purpose pair. Takes a shine if needed, but is also teacore to create an interesting patina if that’s your thing. Brown dress SD was my first pair of Whites. My only pair of WF boots are my outdoor winter shitkickers.

 

[Legal Eagles]

Brown dress (or Elk Tan) would be a good option for an all-purpose pair.

I agree.

Brown dress SD was my first pair of Whites.

Mine too, and they still look great a decade later, they are one of the most versatile pairs of boots I own.

Aside from a boot destined for manual labor, one cannot go far wrong with brown dress for one's first pair of White's boots.

 

[Legal Eagles]

I have found that raising the heel 1/4" makes little to no difference in my perceived arch support in the 4811 or 55 lasts.

Raising the heel 1/4" in the 38 Swing results in a noticeable (to me) but not major increase in arch support.

Lowering the heel, even 1/4" in any last results (to me at least) in a feeling that I am falling over backward, and while one gets used to it, it never feels quite "right"... but YMMV.

In general, every time I think I know more about boots than the maker, and try to deviate from the "default" without a really good reason, I regret it... the default is the default for a reason.

Good Luck!

 

[wordfool]

I’ve also found heel height to be somewhat variable. I have a pair of SDs with standard heels that are actually about 1/8” lower than my other standard-heeled White’s, so barely any taller than the lowered heels. Not sure if it’s due to heel stack compression over time or just the imprecise White’s way, but I suspect slight variation like this is the norm

 

[Danitch]

I have a semidress 55 last with a 1/4 lower heel.
In general, I do not see any particularities, it is similar to any other shoe, but with pronounced arch support. No inconvenience with daily wear.

 

[chicagoan2016]

I have a semidress 55 last with a 1/4 lower heel.
In general, I do not see any particularities, it is similar to any other shoe, but with pronounced arch support. No inconvenience with daily wear.

Brown dress?

 

[andy b.]

Most of my White’s are antique brass. I have one blackout pair (black RO, black edge) with nickel hardware, and my latest (currently being-rebuilt) pair in distressed RO have regular brass, which I’m still in two minds about and might end up antiquing myself if I find it too shiny!

I have both regular "shiny" brass and antique brass. I can say from experience, over time, shiny brass will develop "antiqueness" where it doesn't rub on anything, and antique brass will develop "shininess" where it does. After enough time, they both look the same.

 

[Chrikelnel]

I have a semidress 55 last with a 1/4 lower heel.
In general, I do not see any particularities, it is similar to any other shoe, but with pronounced arch support. No inconvenience with daily wear.

My experience too, I have a pair of SD’s with a 1/4” lowered block heel, as well as a pair of BH’s with a normal height curved heel. I feel little difference between the two.

 

[Chrikelnel]

Finally got around to turning my 55 last ‘Oxford’ dreams into reality.

 

[PACostag]

View attachment 1707188 Finally got around to turning my 55 last ‘Oxford’ dreams into reality.

soft toe?

 

[geremy]

Those look great! Can you post a top down shot so we can compare the toe shape to the post a few pages back by @PACostag?

 

[Chrikelnel]

Those look great! Can you post a top down shot so we can compare the toe shape to the post a few pages back by @PACostag?

Assuming this was at me, here’s a photo from a couple of days ago.

 

[Widening Gyre]

When I ordered back in March, I assumed Kyle would be sourcing Horween Horsehide.

I'm fairly sure this is what I got instead (Maryam). I say this based on the colour and how it differs slightly from the limited pictures I can find online of other natural Horween HH.

Also the creasing so far is super tight, like calf or even kind of rolling (fairly certain the shell is removed so not possible).
Its great stuff where the Horween Horse has creasing like regular cxl and that ugly grainbreak people fear.

Unless I'm way off about horween horse cxl, I think this is a better product.
View attachment 1705735

Even though the MP's are like a month old, the natural stevans has me drooling. I reeeeally want a 5050 boot.

So after seeing this, I had to change my black waxed flesh MPs to natural Maryam Stevens with a soft toe. Damn the cost. They’ll probably also be more suitable for wear at the time of their arrival, which I guess will be around May.

 

[PACostag]

Spoiler: Off Topic - Danner Boots

Does anyone here wear Danners and need a new pair? I find myself with a credit on Danners website ($417) and would be willing to offer it to somebody here at a discount. It's not like a gift card, so you'd just need me to order the pair for you, and I could have it shipped directly to you. Just putting this out there, otherwise the credit will just sit there so I'd like to try and pass it along