• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

discomute

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2019
Messages
457
Reaction score
385
Contrast stitching is interesting and unique but I wouldn't recommend it for someone's first pair of boots.

Firstly "interesting" and "unique" are somewhat double edged when it comes to aesthetics. Secondly learning to care for a leather properly takes time and CS makes it more complicated.
 

plugugly88

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
18
Reaction score
3
So I’m thinking of going with black French calf or black dress for a new pair of whites, based on some of your recommendations.

Can someone direct me to a resource with more information on what black dress leather is and what are it’s benefits? Google searches just come up with black leather dresses 😵
 

montanamike

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2020
Messages
343
Reaction score
375
So I’m thinking of going with black French calf or black dress for a new pair of whites, based on some of your recommendations.

Can someone direct me to a resource with more information on what black dress leather is and what are it’s benefits? Google searches just come up with black leather dresses 😵
If you haven't done so, try the search here which will give you much more targeted information. I'm not in the know on French calf but black dress is a good jump off point. Taking the time to get size and last dialed in is as or more important than the leather chosen though not nearly as fun
 

wordfool

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
475
Reaction score
578
Sigh. My Semi dress pair (originally with a woodsman heel) is back from repairs, sent in for a bad midsole squeak. They came back with a block heel. And no I did not ask for the heel to be changed. I love the standard heel. Sigh.
They perhaps had to take the heel off to fix the midsole issue, but it's weird they forgot to shape the new one, especially when it looks like they did a nice chamfer on the top edge of the heel so obviously paid some attention to finishing. They'll be well-traveled boots by the time they do another round-trip to White's!
 

wordfool

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
475
Reaction score
578
So I’m thinking of going with black French calf or black dress for a new pair of whites, based on some of your recommendations.

Can someone direct me to a resource with more information on what black dress leather is and what are it’s benefits? Google searches just come up with black leather dresses 😵
Black dress is a bit of a mystery and I don't recall seeing any specific info here about the tannery or tanning process -- White's sometimes calls it "dry tan", which doesn't tell us much. It's about 5.5-6oz IIRC, which is about an ounce less than its cousin, Elk Tan. They both are generally known here for being able to take a bit of a shine if needed, and for having a fine grain with much less likelihood of a bad break compared to something like CXL. The black is dyed through (black core) while the brown versions (which are a very dark brown) are teacore.

I have a pair of brown dress SDs and black dress BHs. The leather definitely feels a bit thinner than my oil-tan roughout, waxed flesh and bison boots, but it's also very dense, does not need lining, and is pretty tough stuff -- "dress" only in name. Unless you're after the teacore of black CXL, or you plan a mirror shine on your boots (probably easier with CXL and calf), I'd choose black dress/Elk every time (though I've no experience with calf leather, so perhaps someone else can chime in about that).
 
Last edited:

chicagoan2016

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
992
Reaction score
316
Black dress is a bit of a mystery and I don't recall seeing any specific info here about the tannery or tanning process -- White's sometimes calls it "dry tan", which doesn't tell us much. It's about 5.5-6oz IIRC, which is about an ounce less than its cousin, Elk Tan. They both are generally known here for being able to take a bit of a shine if needed, and for having a fine grain with much less likelihood of a bad break compared to something like CXL. The black is dyed through (black core) while the brown versions (which are a very dark brown) are teacore.

I have a pair of brown dress SDs and black dress BHs. The leather definitely feels a bit thinner than my oil-tan roughout, waxed flesh and bison boots, but it's also very dense, does not need lining, and is pretty tough stuff -- "dress" only in name. Unless you're after the teacore of black CXL, or you plan a mirror shine on your boots (probably easier with CXL and calf), I'd choose black dress/Elk every time.
So probably with lining, black dress will get closer to black elk tan?
 

wordfool

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
475
Reaction score
578
So probably with lining, black dress will get closer to black elk tan?
In terms of overall thickness, a lining probably puts it past Elk Tan. But you'd also be paying more for a lining!

I like the fact that dress leather is slightly thinner -- makes for a boot that (in my mind at least) feels slightly cooler in warm weather.
 

discomute

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2019
Messages
457
Reaction score
385
I have french calf main streets and they are my favourite boot. They let me do them in black sole thread which really makes them imo. I'd love to find out if it can be done with a 5050
 

CaptMorgan223

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
63
Reaction score
21
Fit question:

So at suggestion of Baker's (Kyle) I sent in a total of 3 sets of tracings and ended up at a size 8EE for my Brannock 9.5D.
Custom bounty hunters. Cinnamon waxed flesh.

I originally ordered these in 8E and sent same pair in to be blocked and stretched on 8EE last.

I get them back from Bakers. put them on and at first they feel great and then I spend hour walking around my house to get those steps in and start break in process.

The toe box is still rubbing on my two small toes quite a bit and I had pain in my arches after walking around.
I have a thumbs worth or so of room in front of my big toe however I just feel like the ball of my foot is so far forward in the boot that they're almost short. There's just so little boot in front of end of my foot if that makes sense and the toe tapers in so much ( pointed vs rounded).

Will this get any better or have I just struck out with White's? Any feedback appreciated. I can also post pics tomorrow if needed.
 

chicagoan2016

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
992
Reaction score
316
Fit question:

So at suggestion of Baker's (Kyle) I sent in a total of 3 sets of tracings and ended up at a size 8EE for my Brannock 9.5D.
Custom bounty hunters. Cinnamon waxed flesh.

I originally ordered these in 8E and sent same pair in to be blocked and stretched on 8EE last.

I get them back from Bakers. put them on and at first they feel great and then I spend hour walking around my house to get those steps in and start break in process.

The toe box is still rubbing on my two small toes quite a bit and I had pain in my arches after walking around.
I have a thumbs worth or so of room in front of my big toe however I just feel like the ball of my foot is so far forward in the boot that they're almost short. There's just so little boot in front of end of my foot if that makes sense and the toe tapers in so much ( pointed vs rounded).

Will this get any better or have I just struck out with White's? Any feedback appreciated. I can also post pics tomorrow if needed.
Don't take this the wrong way but did you follow the instructions while tracing your feet and measuring the ball areas, heels etc?
 

chicagoan2016

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
992
Reaction score
316
I have french calf main streets and they are my favourite boot. They let me do them in black sole thread which really makes them imo. I'd love to find out if it can be done with a 5050
Some time ago a fellow member noted that even goodyear welted White's boots are sturdier than Aldens.
How are they compared to White's hand stitched boots? I am sure they are not as heavy.
 

DG123

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2021
Messages
279
Reaction score
298
Fit question:

So at suggestion of Baker's (Kyle) I sent in a total of 3 sets of tracings and ended up at a size 8EE for my Brannock 9.5D.
Custom bounty hunters. Cinnamon waxed flesh.

I originally ordered these in 8E and sent same pair in to be blocked and stretched on 8EE last.

I get them back from Bakers. put them on and at first they feel great and then I spend hour walking around my house to get those steps in and start break in process.

The toe box is still rubbing on my two small toes quite a bit and I had pain in my arches after walking around.
I have a thumbs worth or so of room in front of my big toe however I just feel like the ball of my foot is so far forward in the boot that they're almost short. There's just so little boot in front of end of my foot if that makes sense and the toe tapers in so much ( pointed vs rounded).

Will this get any better or have I just struck out with White's? Any feedback appreciated. I can also post pics tomorrow if needed.
What you've written reads to me like your best fit for the boot will be a size 9D.
 

hoppy_IPA

Senior Member
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
493
Reaction score
1,055
Fit question:

So at suggestion of Baker's (Kyle) I sent in a total of 3 sets of tracings and ended up at a size 8EE for my Brannock 9.5D.

Will this get any better or have I just struck out with White's?
How sure are you about your Brannock size? In my experience, Brannock runs a half size bigger than White's 55 last. I am a 12.5C Brannock & wear a 12D in the 55 last. This extends to other PNW makers who use the 55 last for me as well.

IMHO - it sounds like you need to size up. Maybe worth biting the bullet & paying for a try on pair. Id try a 9E if you go that route.
 

Legal Eagles

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
1,125
Reaction score
2,128
Fit question:

So at suggestion of Baker's (Kyle) I sent in a total of 3 sets of tracings and ended up at a size 8EE for my Brannock 9.5D.
Custom bounty hunters. Cinnamon waxed flesh.

I originally ordered these in 8E and sent same pair in to be blocked and stretched on 8EE last.

I get them back from Bakers. put them on and at first they feel great and then I spend hour walking around my house to get those steps in and start break in process.

The toe box is still rubbing on my two small toes quite a bit and I had pain in my arches after walking around.
I have a thumbs worth or so of room in front of my big toe however I just feel like the ball of my foot is so far forward in the boot that they're almost short. There's just so little boot in front of end of my foot if that makes sense and the toe tapers in so much ( pointed vs rounded).

Will this get any better or have I just struck out with White's? Any feedback appreciated. I can also post pics tomorrow if needed.
What is your heel to toe Brannock vs your heel to ball (arch) length Brannock? (Measured by someone who knows how to use the device properly, of course...)

Sound like you might have extra long toes...

Here is a good explanation I read somewhere:

The length from the heel to the ball of the foot is just as important as the length from the heel to the tip of the toe. People with short toes need different shoe sizes than people with long toes, even if their overall foot length is the exact same. This is because shoes are designed to flex at the ball of the foot and provide arch support. If your foot and your shoe are not flexing in the same position, your arch isn’t properly supported, which can lead to strained feet and/or toes that are confined into unnatural positions. The Brannock Device takes heel-to-ball length into consideration when determining your proper shoe size...


If I had to guess (and that is all this is based on an internet post), I would say @DG123 or @hoppy_IPA are correct... you need a 9... likely a E width... but maybe D. It can be hard for anyone, even a professional, to tell toe length from tracings alone... I know my tracings just look like an amorphous blob...
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Favorite Shorts Length

  • Above the knee

  • Knee length

  • Below the knee

  • None of the above

  • Mid-thigh ("short shorts")


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
461,526
Messages
10,014,700
Members
208,330
Latest member
GucciBoy1
Top