1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

Tags:
  1. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

    Messages:
    10,210
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2011
    Location:
    Bay Area, CA
    Dayton is still in business? Mind boggling after the massive fails over the last few years.
     
  2. ben2t

    ben2t Senior member

    Messages:
    278
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2012
  3. missusjuiceman

    missusjuiceman Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2013
    

    Some of the (IMO) more important differences:

    Sole Construction
    • White's uses Norwegian Welt Construction (or something very similar). The leather welt is hand-sewn to the upper, and then the upper and the welt are folded over and machine-stitched to the sole. White's appears to stitch both rows on the sole simultaneously (as far as I can tell, using a double needle machine)
    • Viberg uses stitch down construction. (second example) Viberg appears to stitch each row on the sole separately
    • Viberg seems to produce cleaner work, on average, than White's. (see: linafelt's comparison) The structural integrity of both White's and Viberg boots is high (they will probably last years), but Viberg seems to have higher aesthetic and quality control standards.
    • White's uses a leather shank.
    • Viberg uses a steel shank.
    • The shank is mostly personal preference, and unless you are going to fight forest fires in your boots, probably not a concern.


    Leather
    • White's has a consistent stable of leathers, including iconic (distressed brown, dress brown, red dog) and many standard (black and brown oil tan, natural/brown/black chromexcel) selections. There are a ton to choose from (view the gallery for this thread) but not many people order off menu.
    • Viberg has a smaller selection of consistent leathers (chromexcels, oil tans, some ROs, waxed flesh), but will often do limited run builds in unusual leathers (midnight reverse kudu, alligator)
    • I have liked the leathers I've handled from Viberg (cxl, oil tan, RO) more than the ones that I have handled from White's (oil tan, assorted ROs, distressed). White's leathers feel much more workboot-like (rigid, thick, not as smooth/soft) and Viberg's feel more luxurious (thick but soft and flexible).

    Ordering
    • White's makes Made-To-Order boots either directly or through Baker's Shoes. They also have a pre-built boots presence on Rakuten.
    • Viberg sells prebuilt boots directly from their website and through many boutiques. They do not accept MTO builds except through group buys (such as on Iron Heart or StyleForum) or through physically showing up at their storefront in Victoria, Canada.
    • If you want a custom order, you pretty much have to go White's. Viberg puts out tons of interesting builds, though. If you like making decisions, go White's. If you want a good build without effort, go Viberg.

    I mean, overall, White's and Viberg grew out of similar areas with similar boot demands. They've approached the fashion market very differently, however. Viberg chose to embrace it, produce a ton of collaborations, release a lot of their own fashion builds, etc. White's welcomes the orders but aside from a handful of domestic and international collaborations, doesn't produce many prefab fashion builds. Vibergs cost about $300-400 more than White's, on average, but this also seems to guarantee a much higher quality control standard. Both are solidly built boots, but Vibergs often look more polished--it's up to the individual how much this matters. You can build a Viberg boot to look like White's and vice versa, but there are some things that one or the other is better known for (Viberg's service boot pattern vs. White's smoke jumper) and those specialties are worth researching when you move toward your next boot purchase.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2014
    11 people like this.
  4. b-ewing

    b-ewing Senior member

    Messages:
    1,103
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2011
    This is hands down the best comparison review I've read. Thank you @missusjuiceman

    Now, just add to this Wesco (which I think is traditional stitch-down), and you can sell it :)
     
  5. cathpah

    cathpah Senior member

    Messages:
    617
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2012
    Location:
    Maine
    Agreed...but we need some Nick's info in there too. (I'm dying to hear/learn more about Nick's, but I just don't see a lot of info out there anywhere)

    I've got a pair on order, so the wait/suspense is killing me.
     
  6. missusjuiceman

    missusjuiceman Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2013
    

    I was really unhappy with the leather samples sent by Nick's (of their three standard leathers, black, chocolate, and walnut). They were very tough, and plasticky on the smooth side. I'd suggest that anyone considering Nick's avoid their standard leathers.

    They use both McKay lockstitch and Goodyear welted construction, depending on the boot. (source) Nick's construction quality seems good, but there's just not a ton of info about them online--I've found more on Japanese blogs and Rakuten than any English-language source, and there are very few pictures. Nick's seems way less inclined toward the fashion community than even White's, though they were very easy to deal with on the phone and seem to have no issue taking fashion orders.


    While I haven't handled any leather samples from Wesco, I'll note that their sole stitching makes White's look like Viberg. (one, two, three) For the price, I'd avoid Wesco. (They also tend to upcharge for every little modification from the standard build, which can quickly bring them between White's and Viberg pricing.)

    Misterjuiceman has a pair of Wesco leather laces and they are A+, though.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2014
    3 people like this.
  7. cathpah

    cathpah Senior member

    Messages:
    617
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2012
    Location:
    Maine
    Interesting/disappointing to hear about their leather. Luckily, the boots that I ordered are done in dark olive CXL (they're these), so that's a crisis averted.
     
  8. b-ewing

    b-ewing Senior member

    Messages:
    1,103
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2011
    Wholly smokes those are nice! Like a 5" Bounty Hunter. (soft toe?)

    Guess I should give Nick's a second look ;)
     
  9. Okhta

    Okhta New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2014
    After first day


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Smoke Jumper
    Leather Palette
    Leather 1: Cognac Water Buffalo
    Leather 2: Brown Chrome Excel by Horween

    Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Chrome Excel by Horween
    Toe Cap Leather: None
    Celastic Toe Box: Single
    Safety Toe: No Thanks
    Heel Counter Leather: Brown Chrome Excel by Horween
    Height: 6"
    Upper (Shaft) Leather : Cognac Water Buffalo
    Leather Liner: Tan
    Sole Trim: Close Trim
    Top: Rolled
    Back Stay Leather: Cognac Water Buffalo
    Pull Loop: Yes
    Eyelet Color: Brass
    Eyelet Configuration : Hook and Eyelet
    Top Garment: Hook
    Lace Design: Lace to Toe
    Lace: Leather
    False Tongue: Cognac Water Buffalo
    Sole: Vib 700 Composition Half Sole,
    Half Slip: No
    Heel Shape: Curve
    Heel Height: Standard
    Last: Standard
    Midsole: Double
    Midsole/Edge Color: Natural
    Size - Length: 10
    Size - Width: E
     
  10. cathpah

    cathpah Senior member

    Messages:
    617
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2012
    Location:
    Maine
    I'm actually getting them in 6" (5" is a tad short for me, and I do enjoy some add'l ankle support), and the soles will be just a touch thinner (apparently they were having trouble sewing through it all), as well as the heel being 1/4" lower (to match the thinner sole and allow me to descend easier when hiking). Tongue is yet to be determined, as I didn't want black. Fingers are crossed I can get the tongue done in dark olive CXL to match the boot, but he (Dustin, owner of Vermillyea Pelle, who provided the leather and did the soles) wasn't sure they'd be able to properly split it thin enough for tongue leather. Fall back is ideally natural CXL, and if not that, their natural tongue leather (not leather from a tongue--that would be amazing--but leather that they use specifically for tongues).

    We shall see. Can't wait to get these beauties on my feet. 10-12 agonizing weeks away.

    Edit: The roughout boot that they're offering is damn fine, too. Both are made by Nick's, but Dustin did/taught them how to do the block heel, as they don't really offer one like that (apparently he worked in shoe repair/crafting for 12 years before opening his store).
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2014
  11. b-ewing

    b-ewing Senior member

    Messages:
    1,103
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2011
    Fantastic, and congrats! was wondering about that block heel; looks damn nice. MUCH better than White's IMO.

    You damn sure better keep us (or at least me ;) ) updated, bro. The stitch work looks impeccable
     
  12. misterjuiceman

    misterjuiceman Senior member

    Messages:
    842
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2011
    I wouldn't say impeccable, but it looks like they're doing each row separately, like Viberg does, since the rows run together toward the tip of the toe. I wonder if they do a figure eight for the half-slip or if they'll just do it without any extra stitching or tacks like White's does.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2014
  13. b-ewing

    b-ewing Senior member

    Messages:
    1,103
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2011
  14. ben2t

    ben2t Senior member

    Messages:
    278
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2012
    Are those Nicks? that is what i am looking for 5" with leather counter which not available with Semi Dress.
    clean stitching uhh.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2014
  15. cathpah

    cathpah Senior member

    Messages:
    617
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2012
    Location:
    Maine
    They are...but they're a custom makeup done by Vermillyea Pelle.

    Dustin (the owner) can help you to further customize them if you'd like (mine will be done in 6" and a different tongue color).
     
  16. ben2t

    ben2t Senior member

    Messages:
    278
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2012
    Cat, post some photos when you get your pair, found this Nick's boots photo and it really look fantastic.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

    Messages:
    1,898
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    Can someone please point me to a pic or two from the gallery with the following sole configuration?

    - Single leather
    - No half slip
    - Vib composition half sole or Commando mini lug half sole
    - Close trim
    - Standard (Cuban) heel
    - Standard heel lifts

    TIA. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2014
  18. RickyTylerson

    RickyTylerson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    59
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    What is this Norwegian welt business? It says all over White's website that they're stitch down. I know that hathorn and some of the White's vintage line use goodyear welting or what have you - but the White's boots line is all stitch down.

    I don't know what this separate stitching means either. Seems like a lot of speculation and conjecture.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2014
  19. RickyTylerson

    RickyTylerson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    59
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    I do know that White's uses rapid E machines for their soles( I've been there and seen them in action. ) However I don't know if they have double needles or if that's even possible on a rapid e.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2014
  20. katabatic

    katabatic Senior member

    Messages:
    391
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2012
    Location:
    San Francisco
    I was disappointed that Epaulet's recent Navy Chromexcel Alden captoe boot makeup sold out in my size (and wasn't available in an E, anyway). And then I found this thread.....[​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by