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klank74

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@klank74 - look'n good, sir. I've been doing 2 coats of resolene & better, longer lasting results. Letting the first coat dry properly helps.

Can you elaborate on your lacing method for the false tongues? Keeping them from drooping towards the toe & even between the upper laces is pet peeve of mine. I have a particular style thats been working good but some kilties are more stubborn than others.
Thanks! The first time around, I applied 2 coats before wearing them. We got some snow last week and just wearing them back and forth from my car to work, the house, and taking the dog out, almost all of it came off. I theorized maybe because I applied it over Whites edge dressing. This time I cleaned them, sanded them, and applied 3 coats. Then left them sit for almost 2 days. Seems to be doing much better now.

i picked it up from someone in the iron heart forum. My first boots with kilties, and my first day with them in, but so far, it seems to be working great. I’ll take a picture when I get home later and post it. I’ll just butcher it if I try to explain it😄 what technique do you use?
 

klank74

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I thought they were honey vibram but the picture made the soles look whitish. Its too bad those have to go to work in a mechanics shop. And the extra cushion sure is nice for concrete. Sneakers kill my knees on concrete all day.
No sneakers allowed for me. I’ve has good luck with redwings supersole 2.0 and anything with a wedge sole, but the wedge is murder in snow or dusty concrete. No traction at all. These feel like their only slightly stiffer than either of those.
 

hoppy_IPA

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And the same last (55) if you were to order the SJ with a steel toe.
AFAIK, if you want steel toes (or comp) they will only do it on the 55. Same for all the other Spokane builders

Thanks! The first time around, I applied 2 coats before wearing them..... This time I cleaned them, sanded them, and applied 3 coats. ... Seems to be doing much better now.
smart man. ive been applying resolene first thing out of the box myself. as excited as i get about just wearing new boots, i may try your technique and go for better adhesion/application next time. what you described makes sense.
 

klank74

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AFAIK, if you want steel toes (or comp) they will only do it on the 55. Same for all the other Spokane builders



smart man. ive been applying resolene first thing out of the box myself. as excited as i get about just wearing new boots, i may try your technique and go for better adhesion/application next time. what you described makes sense.
My theory could be wrong. All I know is, I didn’t apply the Resolene to my SD’s until after rain water had stripped most of Whites edge dressing off, and all I did there was simply wipe them off with a damp rag and apply 2 coats of it. They’ve been holding up great, so that’s where my theory came from.
 

klank74

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@klank74 - look'n good, sir. I've been doing 2 coats of resolene & better, longer lasting results. Letting the first coat dry properly helps.

Can you elaborate on your lacing method for the false tongues? Keeping them from drooping towards the toe & even between the upper laces is pet peeve of mine. I have a particular style thats been working good but some kilties are more stubborn than others.
Ok, I didn’t feel like completely unlacing my boot, so hopefully this pic gives you an idea. Run the lace through the eyelet, through the hole in the kiltie from the front side, through the other hole from the backside, and then through the opposite eyelet. Just like you would normally do it if you weren’t worried about the kiltie moving. Then you run the end of the lace, loop it if you will, under itself from front to back. Repeat on the other side, get your kiltie positioned and pull tight. Then just lace your boot up as you normally would. I wore them all day today and they didn’t budge.
8CB50E9F-266B-4572-AE0B-241745854FDB.jpeg
 

Properwawa

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Ok, I didn’t feel like completely unlacing my boot, so hopefully this pic gives you an idea. Run the lace through the eyelet, through the hole in the kiltie from the front side, through the other hole from the backside, and then through the opposite eyelet. Just like you would normally do it if you weren’t worried about the kiltie moving. Then you run the end of the lace, loop it if you will, under itself from front to back. Repeat on the other side, get your kiltie positioned and pull tight. Then just lace your boot up as you normally would. I wore them all day today and they didn’t budge.View attachment 1564041
For what it’s worth, my experience is that starting with this lacing method makes sure that the kiltie doesn’t slip and sets the shape, then after the boots break in, you can lace the kiltie normally and it will stay in place - that is, if you ever want to unlace it anytime soon!
 

montanamike

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My old (circa early / mid 90's smokejumpers) finally blew out completely so I had to pick up a pair of black classics. As a professional forester in western Montana, my dad had two pair of 8" he rotated daily and I dont believe I ever saw him in another pair of footwear for somewhere around 25 years. So, I wanted to replace the smokejumpers as there is nothing I associate more strongly with my dad in many ways than a black pair of smokejumpers.

My pair survived a few years of fire in western Montana and a couple working on a green chain in a saw mill. They had moved to a more cozy life as the weekend beaters for a software worker but after 3 resoles, and one rebuild...they were done.

The stitching on the smokejumpers is almost perfect which of course cant be seen unless you are 2" away.
 

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Woodtroll

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Has anyone waxed their Red Dog roughout leather? I'd be interested in seeing what it looks like if you wouldn't mind posting some pictures.
I don't have the photos on this computer, but here are links to a couple of posts that contain photos of my Red Dog roughouts with a "homemade waxed-flesh finish":



It's actually not hard to build up a "waxed flesh" finish over a little bit of time, and it's not hard to touch up as needed. The main thing is, in the early stages of the build-up, don't get them dirty while the wax is still tacky - the dirt will embed in the wax finish. Yes, I learned that the hard way, but I'm blaming it on impatience. ;)

In the second post I linked, I explained a little bit about how I went about the process.

Good luck!
 

GMart07

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I don't have the photos on this computer, but here are links to a couple of posts that contain photos of my Red Dog roughouts with a "homemade waxed-flesh finish":



It's actually not hard to build up a "waxed flesh" finish over a little bit of time, and it's not hard to touch up as needed. The main thing is, in the early stages of the build-up, don't get them dirty while the wax is still tacky - the dirt will embed in the wax finish. Yes, I learned that the hard way, but I'm blaming it on impatience. ;)

In the second post I linked, I explained a little bit about how I went about the process.

Good luck!
Appreciate it - that's exactly what I was looking for.
 

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