Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. EastWestApparel

    EastWestApparel Senior member

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    Hi Neil,

    The differences between them are: SJ: different leather pattern which adds more support to the heel area, has its own (north west last I think?) last which has more room throughout and particularly in the height of the toe box. SD: sleeker, lower profile and dressier without the added panel support of the SJ. The Bounty is a made up name by bakers for a highbrid between the both, it's the smoke jumper using the SD last and you can also get the lace to toe option on them.

    Hope that helps.

    J.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2013


  2. Junior Tan

    Junior Tan Member

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    Need some clarification about lasts! I am planning to get a smokejumper, and on the buildaboot website there are several options such as #38 Swing, 461 Classic, Bounty hunter and standard. And also there is a half slip option. What is it for?
     


  3. andy b.

    andy b. Senior member

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    Allan,

    Thanks! To answer your question, it depends. :D Big help, huh.
    In normal Red Wings I take a 9.5 D. I have a pair of Iron Rangers and several pairs of work boots over the years, and that seems to fit. I normally wear them with medium-weight wool socks.
    In athletic shoes I take a 10 (I never found any various widths of athletic shoes). I wear them with your standard white athletic socks.
    In Allen Edmonds I take a 9.5 C in the 5 last, which is AE's longest last. In the other lasts I take a 9.5 D or 10 C. My big toe seems to point more straight forward than most people, so I need a wider width or longer length to not make my big toe feel like it is being squeezed towards the rest of the toes. I wear them with dress socks, or socks about the same weight as white athletic socks.

    For the White's, the first pair I ordered were the Packers. I ordered direct from White's and sent in foot tracings and measurements. I did the tracings with medium-weight wool socks. I wanted the Packers because I love cowboy boots, but hate trying to fight my way into a pair, plus I live in PA, not TX. :) I also wanted them to wear to work and with jeans and casual dress outfits, so I didn't plan on wearing heavy wool socks with them. The initial pair was 9C and the length was okay, but they squeezed my big toe. I figured they would stretch some, so I wore them off and on for a year. Let me just say, they may stretch a little to match how your foot bends as you wear them, but they will definitely not stretch enough to make a poorly-fitting pair start to fit. After calling White's and discussing the issue, I sent the boots back and with all praise to White's, they agreed to basically rebuild the boot to fit me and only charged me the resole fee. I found this to be excellent customer service, and is one of the reasons I purchased two additional pairs (so far) of White's boots. White's could have told me too bad, you wore them, they're yours now. Anyway, the White's guys said a 10B would keep the general width of the boot the same, but lengthen the toe area to give my toes more room. The fact the Packers have the pointed thoroughbred toe was part of the reason for the fitting issues, but the pointed toe was the whole reason I bought the Packers. After I received the boots back and wore them a few days I called White's and told them their craftsmen are boot fitting experts because now the boots fit me like a glove.

    The Bounty Hunters and Smoke Jumpers I bought through Kyle at Baker's. I wear the BH kind of how I wear the Packers, with jeans and casual dress clothes. Living and working in eastern PA, we see lots of slop in the winter, and the BH get worn at least once per week from about October through April, and at least once a month the rest of the year. I wanted to be able to wear them with light to medium winter socks, and Kyle suggested that the different toe shape as well as D width would work, and they fit perfect. The finish has developed a shine over the years, but it is just from the Obenauf's and a horsehair brush, never any polish.

    As an aside, I originally wanted the BH in lace-to-toe design. Kyle said the Semi-Dress last isn't designed to work with LTT, so a BH in LTT is just a plain old SJ in 6" height. Since I wanted a BH, and not a short SJ, I went with the standard toe. Of course, this meant that I was already planning on a SJ order in the future because, well, if you're going to have a few pairs of White's laying around, you need at least one pair in LTT.

    Then after reading this thread over the years, back around Christmas I decided it was finally time to order up those Smoke Jumpers. Again, I talked to Kyle and told him I wanted a pair for actual work, and they would need to be used with heavy wool socks in the winter. I also wanted a double leather midsole, and the 461 (turned-up toe) last. Kyle said the thick soles would take longer to break in, and I explained that was why I wanted the 461 last to kind of give them a head start on the break-in. Kyle suggested a 9.5 E, and that is what I went with. The boots have fit me perfect right out of the box, and yes, the soles are fairly stiff, but extremely comfortable.

    So that's how I ended up with what I have in the sizes I do. If I tried to wear the SJ with light socks, my feet would be swimming in them. If I tried to wear heavy wool socks with the Packers, my foot wouldn't even fit in the boot (I have tried :D ).

    And yes, I plan another. I want something in a medium brown, but I'm not sure which style or configuration yet.

    Andy B.
     


  4. cwmi

    cwmi Well-Known Member

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    Just some questions. I am about to order some oil or preservative from White's for my new (to me) semi dress boots. Which is prefered the oil or preservative ? Their website really doesn't say much about the two.
    Next, In the next few months I plan on ordering another set of semi dress from Baker's but have some questions on the different leathers available. So far I really like the Brown chromexel , and Brown bull hide . I'm would also like to make the toe cap a different leather. I'm thinking of brown shark if it's possible. Where does everyone see images of the different shades of the materials ? I've gone thru every site I could find just checking out pictures. This thread has been great for seeing some of the different styles and colors. Haven't seen much with shark though. My thought is shark would be great on the toe cap to help not show scuffs as easily.
     


  5. the shivman

    the shivman Senior member

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    Get Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative. Here are a couple of pics of brown shark. It looks kind of thin to me.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     


  6. the shivman

    the shivman Senior member

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    I'm waiting for the day they start offering Bullfrog leather

    [​IMG]
     


  7. cwmi

    cwmi Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for those pictures, the bottom pair of boots are incredible. The other leather pairs well with the Shark. Of course i ordered the wrong stuff, i got the oil.
     


  8. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    On the question of sizing, I may have said this but it really bugs me - I sent my foot tracings to Whites, and they recommended a 10D. Two boots I had to sell, and I`m now comfortable in a 9D. Athletic shoes are 9.5, and UK shoes are 8.5 (I guess a US 9.5)
     


  9. the shivman

    the shivman Senior member

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    Yea, in my opinion it's better to try on a pair of SJ's from a local dealer who stocks them, and then size accordingly.
     


  10. andy b.

    andy b. Senior member

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    You're better off with the oil for the first time you use it anyway. The oil will run into all the tight spots such as along the tongue and welt, plus it soaks in around the stitching. The Heavy Duty LP has to be worked into the leather. I use my fingers and a toothbrush to work it in. I am almost out of oil and need to order another container of oil and the LP.

    Andy B.
     


  11. Okal

    Okal Well-Known Member

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    Andy,

    Thanks for the great explanation. Sounds like you got the sizing of the various White's boots all figured out to meet your needs. I really like your boots and someday hope to own each of those styles. I was wondering how people liked the packers and am glad to see your opinion. They would probably work much better for me than my normal pull-on cowboy boots and still be good for riding and for wearing with western clothing. Being here in Oklahoma, a guy has to have good cowboy boots. But first I decided to order some brown horse hide SDs with toe caps, 700 soles, standard heels and close trim. Based in what I'm seeing, some packers may be next.

    Allan
     


  12. andy b.

    andy b. Senior member

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    Allan,

    I don't own any footwear in horsehide (from White's or anyone else). That is definitely on my short list of leather options. The Packers are probably the closest fitting pair of boots I own. I don't want to say tight, because they are extremely comfortable, but they have a lot of support in the arch and instep area. When I talked to the guys at White's they said it is because the Packers have a higher heel, and to keep your foot from sliding up into the toe area they don't want any looseness in the arch or instep. I just mention this in case you eventually get a pair of Packers. They definitely feel different on your feet than the BH (or the SD I would assume).

    Andy B.
     


  13. the shivman

    the shivman Senior member

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    Just saw this boot on Ultrasounds facebook page. SD with a toebug stitching, pretty nice. [​IMG]
     


  14. cwmi

    cwmi Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Andy.
     


  15. cwmi

    cwmi Well-Known Member

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    I've spent the last couple of days going thru this thread again and again. I think my next pair of boots will be some SD's using brown Bison, Buffalo and Shark with a Vibram commando mini lug, and Cuban heel. I haven't worked out all the details yet. I have to sell a couple of knives and a custom flashlight for the funds. Is it strange i haven't even broken in my first pair of SD's yet and want to order another?
     


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