• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Sledge42

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
240
Reaction score
348
So. here's my question of the day. Can a Traveler's heel be converted to a Cuban heel through sanding and perhaps a new top lift, or must you replace the entire heel stack?
If you sent them in, they probably could be converted. The cutting of the heel cap would be tough without the proper boot making tools and skill (if you were thinking of doing it yourself.)
 

Crit_Obs

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Messages
142
Reaction score
93
”Cuban heel” is not even an option with White’s so I presume the conversion would be done by a 3rd party? It’s a major rework, in any case.
 

hoppy_IPA

Senior Member
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
424
Reaction score
914
I’d be in for a whiskey shell group buy.
So. here's my question of the day. Can a Traveler's heel be converted to a Cuban heel through sanding and perhaps a new top lift, or must you replace the entire heel stack?
im going to learn towards maybe. you’d probably need to get a new heel cap because of the location of the nails. My local cobbler replaces heel caps for $25/pair and always lightly sands/refinishes the stack. I’d assume if he can do most cobblers can as well. His shop cannot do full resoles or rebuilds but does a lot of other services. They’re also a retailer for Franks boots which is part of the Whites family tree
 

Sledge42

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
240
Reaction score
348
”Cuban heel” is not even an option with White’s so I presume the conversion would be done by a 3rd party? It’s a major rework, in any case.
A "Cuban Heel" would be a "Logger Heel" or "Standard Heel" on White's
 

Legal Eagles

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
973
Reaction score
1,813
I thought a cuban heel and a logger heel was 1 in the same.
For our casual purposes, they are... the "Cuban" being used in the vernacular to denote a tapered heel instead of a 90 degree blocked off surface.

As @linafelt pointed out, the semantical debate comes up every so often...

I will summarize the debate here for those newcomers who may have not yet had the pleasure...

Firstly someone always posts this:
1582404339849.png

Then someone always points out that we should use "packer" or "dogger" or even "buckaroo"...

Someone then insists the correct term is "woodsman" heel.

Next someone always points out that any tapered heel is "Cuban"...

Next someone always argues that if the heel is tapered but straight it should be called "dogger" and if tapered but curved "logger".

Then the purists jump in and say that a true Cuban heel is nothing like any of the above, and they post a picture to support their position... usually something like this:

1582406355748.png


Then if we are lucky, somehow the Beatles and their footwear get dragged into the debate...

Then someone always tries to be helpful by noting that there are also several different names for a block heel, including, not surprisingly "block heel", "90 Degree", and "Traveler", and we should not get hung up on overly strict definitions...

Finally someone then always chimes in with a question about what the difference is when walking and on the foot, and which is better... this sometimes takes us on another tangent, and by the time we get back to definitions everyone has forgotten the original question.

Usually the debate ends with a whimper not a bang; we all agree that we know what you are talking about when you say Cuban and we agree to keep using it as a heuristic for any tapered heel... the technical "Cuban Heel" crowd slinks off to lick their wounds and hone their arguments for next time, and we all move on to arguing about more important things like CXL for workboots, eyelets vs. hooks, best sole type, does double welt stitching give more rebuilds than single, and what the heck is British Tan leather really...

All in a day's work here on the White's thread....
 
Last edited:

tocohillsguy

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2015
Messages
259
Reaction score
289
I've never owned it, I was just going off what Kirby Allison said. Yes you can shine of course but he said there is virtually no need for it. He said there was no patina because it's a membrane not a skin (i.e. not technically leather).

I'm not sure what you mean by "evolution" and I'd be interested. Again, I claim no expertise, I was just reciting what someone said who I thought would know. Doesn't mean I've fully understood what he meant either.

Edit: If anyone is interested
I disagree with some of Mr. Allison's observations. First, shell cordovan definitely develops a patina (although not so much in black). Second, unless one is going for a distressed look, shell cordovan requires just as much maintenance as calf to look its best; it's just that it tends not to look as bad as calf when it is not maintained (particularly if one has Alden shell cordovan shoes, because Alden dyes and applies an acrylic coat to its shell cordovan which makes maintenance a little easier). That being said, without maintenance, shell cordovan can look worse than calf if exposed to rain or water drops. Third, he failed to mention how shell cordovan tends to roll vs crease, which is one of the most noticeable visual distinctions. Some find the rolls unattractive, particularly in formal shoes, others like it. Fourth, he failed to mention that shell cordovan doesn't "breath" as well as calf, so shell cordovan shoes tend to wear warmer on your feet. Those who suffer hot, sweaty feet may not enjoy wearing shell cordovan.
 

Leveskie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
25
For our casual purposes, they are... the "Cuban" being used in the vernacular to denote a tapered heel instead of a 90 degree blocked off surface.

As @linafelt pointed out, the semantical debate comes up every so often... and someone always posts this:
View attachment 1342017
Someone always points out that we should use "packer" or or even "buckaroo"...

Someone points out that any tapered heel is "Cuban"...

Someone argues that if the heel is tapered but straight it should be called "dogger" and if tapered but curved "logger".

Someone points out there are also several different names for a block heel, including, not surprisingly "block heel", "90 Degree", and "Traveller", and we should not get hung up on overly strict definitions...

The linguistic purists are never happy, but eventually we all agree that we know what you are talking about when you say Cuban, and we move on to arguing about more important things like CXL for workboots, eyelets vs. hooks, best sole type, does double welt stitching give more rebuilds than standard, and what the heck is British Tan leather really...

All in a day's work here on the White's thread....
Well that is really in depth :)
 

Leveskie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
25
You think that is in depth, you should read the 4 pages of debate I just saved us about whether "dogger" and "cuban" are the same. You are welcome ;)
Thank you. Somehow I don't remember that debate, but thank you for the refresher! So, both dogger and logger fall under cuban? Because I think packer is kinda its own thing being taller and all.
 
Last edited:

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Work From Home: What's Your Attire?

  • PJs & Slippers

  • Cozy loungewear

  • Casual outfit (wool cardigan, chinos, etc)

  • Suit or sport coat and dress trousers


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
451,812
Messages
9,782,937
Members
204,122
Latest member
geek predator
Top