Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. cwmi

    cwmi Well-Known Member

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    This thread is so full of win ! I'm new to the forum, actually found it while doing researching White's. I scored my first pair of White's off of Ebay. I picked up a pair of Semi Dress in dress brown leather, antiqued hardware , standard heel, and leather midsole. I took a chance buying them second hand off of the bay and probably overpaid but the chance did pay off. They weren't even broken in, paid $227 for them. The original owner custom ordered them , although the only difference I see is the sole has single stitching instead of double. Can't figure out why he sold them. Only thing I saw was the stitching had a few flaws.
    Today is my second day wearing them and for the most part I really like them. I usually walk at lunchtime and walked about a mile in them with no issues. I am getting a slight pinching on the top of my foot just behind my big toe. The leather of the vamp is pinching agains the throat line. Don't know if this will go away once they get completely broken in. It seems to be getting better.
    I do plan on having some things changed though, I want to go with either a single midsole with a commando sole or a double mid with #430 Vibram. I can't do that until I find a replacement for these while they are gone...so I'm already saving and planning on having a pair custom made.
     
  2. univibe88

    univibe88 Senior member

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    Sounds like you got a good deal to me. It's possible they just didn't fit the original owner. I think the pinch you are describing will go away when they are broken in.
     
  3. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

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    SD Horsehide x Bison @1yr

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  4. Junior Tan

    Junior Tan Member

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    Hello all White's enthusiast! I'm new here, created an account just for this thread :)
    At this moment i don't own a pair of White's yet, but I am saving up for one!
    I am still very confused about all the custom options such as Different kinds of leathers, soles and liners.
    But the thing i'm most confused about is "last". You guys mentioned semidress, smokejumper, bountyhunter and some other terms that i am not familiar with.
    I am keen to learn! Looking forward to all your advices :)
     
  5. Okal

    Okal Well-Known Member

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    I love looking at the boots with some miles and character on them. Thanks to those who posted the pictures. I'm still dying to see some of [email protected]'s boots after he has worn them for awhile, but with as many as he owns, no single pair may have much wear yet. New boots are great, but they don't stay new for long, so it's always nice to see how gracefully these boots seem to age. Has anyone noticed a difference in how the various soles wear, particularly the 269, 430 and 700 Vibram soles? I like the looks of the 269 best, while the 430 seems to have the best traction -- but I ordered the full 700 as a compromise. I'm not sure I made the right choice. Any thoughts?

    Allan
     
  6. the shivman

    the shivman Senior member

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    the 430 and the 700 seem pretty similar to me. Both should be able to withstand a lot of wear.
     
  7. urbanswoodsman

    urbanswoodsman Active Member

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  8. the shivman

    the shivman Senior member

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    damn, the natty cxl on those looks basically brown now.
     
  9. Hill

    Hill Senior member

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    When you guys talk about the break-in period for White's boots taking a while, which parts of the shoe are you referring to? Is it the vamp/forefoot or just the soles?

    I'm between sizes (TTS and -.5) and would need quite a bit of stretch across the vamp in the brown dress leather to go down .5 from my TTS, which is what Baker's is recommending based on the tracings I sent in. The TTS pair fits well in the forefoot but the arch is hitting too close to my toes. Anyone have advice they could share?
     
  10. andy b.

    andy b. Senior member

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    I joined a while ago, but never posted. I figure this thread is as good as any to start. :D

    I have three pairs of White's boots. I also own two pairs of Wescos and some various Red Wings. The materials and construction on the White's blows the rest away.

    Left to right: Smoke Jumpers, Bounty Hunters, Original Packers
    [ATTACHMENT=6254]Whites_all.jpg (169k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    Here is a look at the heels. I think there is some confusion in how these heels are referred to. The Smoke Jumper and Bounty Hunter heels would be best described as "logger heels". I believe all of White's boots have this heel except the Packers. The Packers have what would be best described as a "Cuban heel" that would be found on most cowboy boots. Here are a few comparison photos. All are the standard height.

    Here is the Bounty Hunter and Packer heels
    [ATTACHMENT=6255]BH_packer_heel.jpg (136k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    And here is the Bounty Hunter and Smoke Jumper heels
    [ATTACHMENT=6256]BH_SJ_heel.jpg (176k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    Something to consider if you get the double leather midsoles and Vibram 100 lug sole is that the stack of the sole material is too thick to sew through, so the midsoles are sewn on, and the lug sole is glued and screwed on. This was mentioned early on in this thread. I called White's to discuss this and they said they have had zero issues with soles separating using this construction. I went with the double midsole because I liked how it looked, no other reason.
    [ATTACHMENT=6257]SJ_sole.jpg (140k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    And finally, since these are handmade leather boots, the sizing isn't as consistent as say a pair of Nike athletic shoes produced on machines by the thousands. I think if you get a pair, you should be prepared to accept the fact that you may need to vary the thickness of socks you wear to adjust the fit. I'm not saying they will be off a full size, I'm just saying leather is a natural material that can stretch differently from hide to hide, and how the craftsman assembles the boots. The Packers are a size 10 B, the Bounty Hunters are 9.5 D, and the Smoke Jumpers are 9.5 E. All fit me as I wanted, but I wear heavy dress socks with the Packers, light hiking socks with the BH, and very thick wool socks with the SJ.
    Top view of the three
    [ATTACHMENT=6258]top_length.jpg (212k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    Side view
    [ATTACHMENT=6259]side_length.jpg (228k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    I received the Packers in December of 2009, the BH in March of 2010, and the SJ in Feb of 2013.

    The Packers are the standard smooth black. The BH are Smooth Red Dog vamp and heel and Brown Bullhide shafts with white lining. The SJ are black rough out vamp and heel, and smooth brown shaft. All I do on the smooth leather is put on Obenauf's LP and brush them every now and then. I put a little Obenauf's on the black rough out, but not enough to completely flatten the nap.

    This is definitely one of the best White's thread on any forum.

    Andy B.
     
  11. Okal

    Okal Well-Known Member

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    I don't know much about White's, since I don't have mine yet and have only seen two pairs in person and tried on one, but the problem of having the arch too far forward for a particular wearer's foot is not unique to White's. One measurement of length is from the heel to the ball of the big toe, as seen on the Brannock foot measuring device as "arch length." http://brannock.com/cgi-bin/start.cgi/brannock/instructions.html#fitting

    Arch length varies from person to person and must be accommodated by the shoe/boot for proper fit. One way to achieve a shorter arch length is to decrease the overall shoe length. If there is also sufficient length for the toes, wearing a shorter size shoe that has the correct arch length is the right solution. Sometimes a custom shoe must be constructed in order to achieve proper fit. From your shoe tracing White's can tell how long your arch length is as well as the overall length and width of your foot. If the people there tell you to go down a half size, they are probably going to be right, but only by wearing the boot will you know for sure. I hope my SDs will be what I need since I am having them custom made to fit. I have some doubts, but if all goes well and the fit is as good as I'm told it will be, I definitely will order more. (But not as many as [email protected]!)

    Love those boots of yours, Andy! What is your "normal" shoe length/width, and why do you think you wear a much narrower width in the Packer, other than the sock thickness?

    Allan
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013
  12. Hill

    Hill Senior member

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    Thanks very much for your reply.
     
  13. Quack Attack

    Quack Attack Member

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    [​IMG]

    Not my taste but a unique Semi Dress here!

    Kyle - Baker's
     
  14. neilz4

    neilz4 Well-Known Member

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    What are the main differences between the SJ, BH, and SD? Is it the last? Construction (something that isn't obviously apparent, given that they all look the same to me)? I've got to be missing something.
     
  15. gravitas1

    gravitas1 Active Member

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    Double sole?
     

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