Custom wedding suit

[Adaboy]

This is my first fully canvased MTM suit (for my wedding). I am a big guy with large shoulders, which makes getting a proper fit very challenging. I usually have to get a 52jacket and have the belly taken way in, which does bad things to the front of the jacket.

Long story short, the retailer I ordered this from had the jacket sent back to the manufacture (Samuelsohn) after I complained about shoulder divots. This is the result AFTER lowering the arm holes. I can’t tell if this suit fits me more appropriately than my half dozen off the rack suits, or if something strange is going on in the shoulders? Looking for any advice? The tailor was abnormally quiet when the suit arrived the other day. I got the vibe they weren’t pleased and didn’t want to say anything to me as the customer.

Cheers and thank you for any input.

 

[compuccesory]

I don't like the way the shoulders look for the reasons you stated, but at the same time I'm not sure that they can do much with MTM to fix it. You're probably hitting hard limits on how much they can stretch the pattern on this suit. Did you get a chance to try a "try-on" suit prior to commissioning? I think if I were you I would have gone for something with much less structured shoulders.

 

[compuccesory]

To be clear, the issue of the shoulders is addressed in this thread:

Divot terror

In a new thread worthy coincidence, I have just received an e-bay purchase of a nice flannel jacket right during the unfolding of that thread with the divots. The jacket is lovely, and fits well in the chest and length, but has incredible shoulder divots. I think it's from the 1980s, I am slim...

www.styleforum.net

So I think the issue with your suit is that it isn't wide enough front to back, you can see this as your arms are already kind of straining in the sleeves. I suspect that this is not something that the MTM model can be adjusted to compensate for. Going to a less structured shoulder I think would reduce the visual impact of the problem but probably not eliminate it entirely, you would have to go to a different MTM pattern or bespoke, I think.

 

[Adaboy]

Thanks for the response. Is there anything the manufacturer, or a skilled tailor could do at the point? I think the diameter of the sleeve is the issue, not arm hole height.

 

[J.Odelius]

Thanks for the response. Is there anything the manufacturer, or a skilled tailor could do at the point? I think the diameter of the sleeve is the issue, not arm hole height.

I doubt that would be doable. Depends on if there is fabric to actually widen the sleeves usually there isn't though.

 

[Ben W]

While there are things that could be nit picked about this suit I wouldn't let any of them get in the way of fully enjoying your wedding day. Nobody you invite to your wedding is going to notice / care about the fit issues with your suit unless you invite folks from this forum. It isn't as if it is some OTR 2-sizes too big abomination. Wear it confidently and with a big smile. You're getting married! ?

That said, in addition to correcting the shoulders/sleeves, for your next suit I'd suggest considering a longer jacket and higher waisted pants. Suit pants should fall at your navel or just below, imo. They aren't jeans, and shouldn't sit as low as jeans do. With low waisted trousers your shirt (and tie, if tied to hit your waistband) will peek out at the bottom of the jacket. I don't find that to be an advantageous look. The jacket should completely cover your rear. I can't see for sure but based on where the jacket length hits your wrist I'm guessing it isn't quite long enough to do that. The shorter jacket also doesn't help any with the peeking issue.