Custom tuxedo for upcoming wedding

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bdunks22, Sep 16, 2013.

  1. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    Hello all,

    I just stepped into a local tailor and got a price on a fabric I liked for a 3 piece tux. The fabric was from British woolens in Montreal and is a super 160 in black.

    I called British woolens and found out they stock fabric from Reda in Italy and from a textile mill in China. From what I gather, the fabric I chose is from china.

    My question is, would it be advisable to go down to a super 130 from Reda or stay with the super 160? Or should I avoid both? What quality can I expect?

    From my admittedly novice touch, the super 160 feels better an compares favorably to some of the samples I felt from coppley and samuelsohn.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    If this is the wrong area to post this let me know.
     
  3. PiCcolocV

    PiCcolocV Senior member

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  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Since it's a cloth-specific question you might try the unfunded liabilities thread as well
     
  5. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    Ok thanks, for the record, I'm purchasing my tux. This isn't about what the groomsmen are wearing. I'm getting a tuxedo made and had a specific question about the cloth and it's quality.
     
  6. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    Super numbers aren't necessarily comparable between mills and are for the most part marketing tools.
    The best woolens come from British or Italian mills. If you are having a bespoke tux made by a reputable
    tailor, ask him what he suggests.
     
  7. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I have some stuff in Reda 110s 2x1. The fabric is nice to the touch and has a nice visual fabric pattern, however is a 2x1 and the trouser (croch area) are wearing out fast, however I do have a lenght of fabric for the replacement trousers when the time comes. As I understand it, Reda specialise in making fabrics for RTW brands, with a good compromise between quality and price.
    So, in conclusion, try to see other fabrics as well, an for durability you would go max to 130s with a 2x2 construction minimum
     
  8. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    Ok,

    I guess I'm looking for anybody with specific knowledge of the British Wollens company from Montreal. I wanted to go to this tailor for sentimental reasons. He used to work on my fiance's father's suits before he passed. Never made a new suit for him, but they had their businesses across the road from each other, swapped services (my fiances father was a barber), were the same age, and both italian immigrants, and became friends.

    I've seen some of the suits he has made (although he does so less often recently), and they looked great. He said he has been using wool from British woolens for years and highly recommends it. I'm just looking for a second opinion since I've never heard of it.

    If it makes a difference, due to the circumstances, he is giving me a great deal on a bespoke tuxedo.
     
  9. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Can you order your own cloth? H Lesser has a nice Tuxedo 120s with cashmere fabric that is not that expensive (at least here in the UK) and is available in both midnight or black. Smith Woollen merino/mohair barathea is also very much liked here but at retail cost almost double the Lesser mentioned above.
     
  10. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    I wouldn't feel comfortable ordering fabric blind in case it wasn't what I was looking for
     
  11. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    I should also specify, I only plan on wearing this tux at most once a year, if that.
     
  12. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Ok, let me add to my suggestion of fabric: I have insight knowledge fom one of the biggest UK retailer's buyers that Chinese suiting fabric goes for about 8-12 GBP and Italian fabric such as Reda Fintes etc, at 14-25 GBP wholesale. Smith woollen goes at around 40GBP wholesale I guess and a bit less for Lesser.

    If you are having something custom made, where there is value added by the process, it would be a shame to use such a Chinese fabric on it, my two cents.

    You would like the Lessere 120s with cashmere if you like super fabric, and it is 100 times better then the fabrics you are considering.

    Edit: price above are per meter of fabric
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2013
  13. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    It is Australian wool spun in a Chinese textile factory if that changes anything. But there was also a Reda fabric that was there as well, it seems like I might be better off with going that route? I'm not going to go up to the higher range you said (40GBP for smith woollen). I think this tailor only sources from the above mentioned British Woolens inc. And they only carry italian (reda, etc) and the chinese spun wool from austrailia (as per my phone conversations with their head office).

    PS thanks to all those that replied! You guys are great :)
     
  14. bdunks22

    bdunks22 Member

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    Quick update... Ordered the suit today. After I did some research I discovered that Richard Lim in LA (who it seems has a very good reputation) has used British woolens for 20 years. I explained my situation and they said they use the exact fabric I ordered as a staple for higher end suits and tuxes. Lim's said they have been more than satisfied with the quality of the cloth and have heard no complaints about it and they recommend it.

    Phew....
     
  15. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Inside knowledge, not insight.
     

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