Custom Tailoring Dilemma

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tiecollector, Sep 8, 2006.

  1. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

    Messages:
    7,031
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Location:
    Germany


  2. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    Zegna are the only company of the three "names" you mentioned that produce fabric. The others probably slap names on cloth books, though I've never seen any at a quality shop.

    Your story has so many warning signs all over it. $10K suits is a ridiculous exaggeration (on his part) or flagrant overpricing, even if those cloths are cashmere.

    Frankly this guy sounds like a prick. Did you even get a fitting? If less than a couple, without even asking questions about the construction, I recommend driving the hardest bargain you can, because you should never be returning.
     


  3. Alter

    Alter Senior member

    Messages:
    4,539
    Likes Received:
    145
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    I recommend driving the hardest bargain you can, because you should never be returning.

    Exactly.

    Go in and undo your work enough that it has no value- undo a couple of wires or change some of the code, whatever the case. Then tell him that you will not complete the work unless he honours his deal.
     


  4. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

    Messages:
    7,031
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Location:
    Germany
    ......
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2011


  5. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

    Messages:
    860
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    San Diego Ca
    Exactly.

    Go in and undo your work enough that it has no value- undo a couple of wires or change some of the code, whatever the case. Then tell him that you will not complete the work unless he honours his deal.


    If this is possible I concur.

    Perry
     


  6. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

    Messages:
    7,031
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Location:
    Germany
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2011


  7. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

    Messages:
    2,533
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    You should tell him that he should have made this clear to begin with, and see where that goes.
     


  8. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    I think he said it was $8k, either way, it was nice cashmere fabric, 15 mil, so too warm anyways. The thing that caught me most off guard is that he talks to me and seems genuinely interested in things. He tells me about his kids, etc, but he is just a cutthroat businessman apparently.

    Either way, he is trying to tell me the suit is costing him $2k, which certainly isn't the case. That is why we are bartering because its cheaper for both of us to trade.

    He did fit me today, took my measurements and I picked out the fabric and lining. He told me that he'd wave the cost of the zippers, buttons, lining, which I know cost hardly anything in comparison.

    I'm going to drive a hard bargain. I don't want to give away the website of his but he says he licenses patterns from several big designers (their bespoke lines), Loro Piana, Deurmil (sp?), Zegna, Armani, Versace, Brionni (sp?), many others. He can also replicate any fabric. He told me that the fabric I chose was Armani fabric, though a few weeks ago he did tell me taht Zegna makes fabric for many designers. I'm sure Armani rebrands Zegna fabrics and marks them up.

    I'm not sure what you mean by this:

    "If less than a couple, without even asking questions about the construction"

    A couple fittings? He measured me 2 or 3 times. He did ask me what details I wanted, what kind of lapels, how many buttons on the sleve, how many vents, etc, and any other details that I wanted. I've never been to a bespoke tailor before so I don't know what to ask for.

    Let this be a life lesson, always always always get things in writing when dealing with money.


    The cost of zippers, lining, buttons, etc is negligible. It's like him buying you a lunch at Starbucks. His mentioning it is honestly ridiculous; trimmings should certainly be included in the standard suit, unless you wanted something really special, and it doesn't sound like you did.

    By fittings I mean, did you put on a half-made garment to check the fit? Did he mark it with chalk? Or did he really just measure you with tape 2-3 times?
     


  9. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

    Messages:
    7,031
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Location:
    Germany
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2011


  10. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

    Messages:
    7,031
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Location:
    Germany
    The cost of zippers, lining, buttons, etc is negligible. It's like him buying you a lunch at Starbucks. His mentioning it is honestly ridiculous; trimmings should certainly be included in the standard suit, unless you wanted something really special, and it doesn't sound like you did.

    By fittings I mean, did you put on a half-made garment to check the fit? Did he mark it with chalk? Or did he really just measure you with tape 2-3 times?



    No, he didn't do any of that. I saw some of his customers come in though in the past and they fit quite well. Only a minor alteration needed, if that. He did just measured me with the tape. He measured me in about 12 different places. I assume the fitting would come after he started making the garment. He hasn't started making it yet.
     


  11. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    I had mistakenly assumed it was being finished right now and that you hadn't received any fittings.

    My advice to drive a hard bargain still stands. But don't piss him off too much if you still want a decent suit.

    There is little chance of the materials costing him more than $500 total. Over the cost of basic Zegna cloth - no way.
     


  12. mrchapel

    mrchapel Senior member

    Messages:
    679
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    Say you'll pay $250 for the materials, otherwise you will reneg on your work because he broke a verbal contract with you.
     


  13. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

    Messages:
    7,031
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Location:
    Germany
    Say you'll pay $250 for the materials, otherwise you will reneg on your work because he broke a verbal contract with you.

    Yeah I'm thinking I'll either split the cost or pay the difference for the upgrade since there was so much confusion. But saying it is costing him $2000 just really got to me. The suits are quite nice and $250 is still a pretty good deal.
     


  14. hughjoen

    hughjoen Active Member

    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Seattle
    I'm sure you have the feel for your own situation best, but don't sell yourself short. It doesn't matter if someone can do the job for $100. it's what the client or in this case, the tailor is willing to pay for. You have already done your part. I don't see how it will be reasonable for him to negate part of the agreement. I'll ask for two suit. I hope everything works out amicably.
     


  15. tiecollector

    tiecollector Senior member

    Messages:
    7,031
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Location:
    Germany
    I'm sure you have the feel for your own situation best, but don't sell yourself short. It doesn't matter if someone can do the job for $100. it’s what the client or in this case, the tailor is willing to pay for. You have already done your part. I don't see how it will be reasonable for him to negate part of the agreement. I'll ask for two suit. I hope everything works out amicably.
    Yeah I just hope he doesn't get annoyed and just tell me he will find someone else, since I have already put this time in, then things get complicated. I'll keep you posted as to how it goes. Let this be a lesson to get everything in writing so this doesn't happen again.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by