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Custom Suiting Toronto

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TOstyle, May 8, 2014.

  1. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

    Messages:
    612
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Toronto
    Also, as an aside, this thread needs more pics from people other than me.

    Post em if you've got em, people...
     
  2. greger

    greger Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 24, 2009
    Location:
    WA
    
    I wouldn't call it a style. The lapel is pulled up causing it to roll sooner than it should. If he cut the collar ends wider the lapels can be lifted and lower to determine exactly the best fit, and pin each exactly in place.


    It is very sloppy for extra room. The cloth below the midsection is falling senselessly. Above isn't fitted right either. The extra "room" should be distributed around the whole coat, not just the back. Back in the early sixties the backs fell straight down cleanly and the sides also fell the same. These coats were very roomy. A TV program, think it is called Mr. Gun, a detective series, the main character, has a very well cut loose fitting coat of a good loose style. Whoever did your coat is far from it. Here is a book that explains some basic fitting problems. The authors name is Clarence Poulin.


    Bespoke pants can have a fitting before anything is permanently finished sewn, such as pockets, darts, zipper and waistband. In Poulins book he shows a few pants fitting problems. You might find an answer there.


    I think it is way off.


    It all depends on the skills of the makers.
     
  3. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Jan 24, 2009
    Location:
    WA
    

    If you ask those who started at the age of 12 they will say it is better to have started at the age of 6 than 12. Maybe children should learn to walk at the age of 15 instead of younger than 2. But, at the very young age children's bodies can fall and land at those very odd angles that they do that would cause a 15 year old physical damage. Those younger bodies are very stretchy and flexible, which is why the old tailors say the hands are no good for teaching when older. That flexibility that small children have with their hands is the very best time to teach.
     
  4. Vuchko

    Vuchko Member

    Messages:
    18
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    Jan 3, 2017
    I live in Toronto and I've bought only RTW clothing in my life so far, but I've been thinking about starting to build a custom-tailored wardrobe over the next few years.

    However, this and various other SF threads have left me horrified. It would seem that in Toronto there are simply no tailors whom one could trust to deliver well-made custom clothing reliably. This despite the fact that the city has a fairly decent assortment of high-end menswear stores if one is looking for RTW.

    One wonders how many tailors in the world exist who are really capable of consistently delivering much better clothing than what one can get with RTW and safe basic alterations for a comparable price. Is it really the case that aside from the few elite Italian, French, and English tailoring houses, they are so rare that even a major city like Toronto might have none?
     
  5. CloudLi

    CloudLi Senior member

    Messages:
    163
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    Jun 13, 2016
    If you check out local cobblers, you will notice that none of the cobbler has a goodyear welting machine. It is like a desert for men's wear here
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
  6. Vuchko

    Vuchko Member

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    Jan 3, 2017
    For RTW, I don't think it's fair to call Toronto a "desert" even as hyperbole. Certainly almost any other North American city will look like far worse in comparison. Yes, it's very expensive, but I wouldn't say it's out of line with the general high cost of living here.

    Even when it comes to tailoring, there are apparently lots of options. However, based on what I've read here and elsewhere, I can only conclude that competent high-end tailoring is nowadays a rare and dying art (at least outside of a few remaining places in Europe), and Toronto just isn't lucky to have any one of the dwindling number of such tailors working here.
     
  7. Vuchko

    Vuchko Member

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    Jan 3, 2017
    Also, does anyone have experiences with tailoring in various fancy-looking places in the Yorkville area, such as Leatherfoot, Marcello Tarantino, or John Ferrigamo?

    I've found this SF thread on the latter, but not much online info about any of them otherwise (aside from their own websites).
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/367045/...with-toronto-custom-suit-maker-john-ferrigamo

    I would expect they are all very expensive, but I would be willing to spend a substantial amount if I could be confident that the outcome would be impressive. (By which I mean not just good, but clearly far superior to anything I could get with RTW, even as someone for whom typical RTW sizes are usually a good fit.)
     
  8. TOstyle

    TOstyle Senior member

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    Well as the guy who started this thread, and has had some spotty experiences with tailors in this city, I don't know that it's fair to say. I don’t think it’s a no-brainer and you can just go with anyone in the city but I think that’s true of everywhere. You are going to connect with only a few people, and in my experience you have to work at that. I am also thankful that I’ve had a good experience with Tom at Thomas Henry Made. Website is www.thmade.com. I wasn’t sure when I went in but the guy did a good job and I’ve been back for another one. It's MTM but I liked the quality.

    I am also glad someone posted here. I was just thinking this week I hadn’t seen any posts for a while and I was wondering if the email summary I get from SF when someone does was broken. Guess everyone has been busy the last little bit!
     
  9. flytothesky

    flytothesky Well-Known Member

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    Jan 10, 2009
    


    I hope this is a joke. Thomas Henry Made is a bad custom tailor place. The quality is that of a Hugo Boss suit which is shotty at best.

    The drape of the suits are horrible and the designs are atrocious. Anyone that has knowledge of suits on this forum would know not to buy from a place like that.

    No one would recommend Thomas Henry Made THmade to get a custom suit. Especially on this forum as most people are educated. I understand you might of had good rapport with the guy but the suit quality is bad.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
  10. TOstyle

    TOstyle Senior member

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    Well it worked for me so I suggested it. Everyone has their opinion, and say what you will about the drape but I will say the quality is much better than Boss IMHO.
     
  11. flytothesky

    flytothesky Well-Known Member

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    You seem like a nice enough guy but confused. Opinion doesn't change the fact that the construction of the suit is poor. I don't want you spreading bad advice. Again, I'm sure Thomas is a nice guy but his suits are of poor quality. Go to SuitSupply and look at the Sienna or the Jort and compare it to your Thomas Henry Made THmade suit.

    You will see a big difference. Opinions don't change poor construction.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
  12. gj555

    gj555 Senior member

    Messages:
    299
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    There is absolutely nothing wrong with someone recommending a suit based on fit and positive experience with the seller over suit construction. That's not misinformed opinion, that's someone who has experienced service that they are happy with. So what if the construction is not as good as suit supply? (I can only assume you have experience with both brands since you are claiming one is much better than the other). Suit supply is a good business model and produces a good value suit with fine details for 300 to 400 dollars less than a comparative half canvas suit made in North America.

    You can get a crappy fitting all canvas suit or crappy sales experience at a high end store. Quality construction is not the only factor when recommending or reviewing a store.

    Also, people sometimes take what they learn on these forums as an absolute. Must buy all canvas construction suit, shoes must be Goodyear welted and made in England, you can only resole your shoes with JR soles, etc. Not towing the line with the masses does not make someone misinformed. The OP had a good experience and shared it.
     
  13. flytothesky

    flytothesky Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 10, 2009
    


    I'm not trying to be elitist. I'm trying to help people make informed decisions on their purchase. Sorry if it comes off as snobby but I just want to help people make the right choice.

    I never knew educating people and steering them off a bad quality suit is absolute. I'm stating the drape and construction is bad on Thomas Henry Made THmade suit.

    There are too many options and competition to accept a sub par suit because of a "Good Experience". None of which are mutually exclusive, you can have both. From the outside looking in, wouldnt you want to inform TOstyle, so he would end up with a high quality suit and great customer service?
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2017

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