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Custom Suiting Toronto

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TOstyle, May 8, 2014.

  1. vinston

    vinston Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 19, 2016
    

    I agreed. In my personal experience, I saw many many tailors would refuse to change or modify the way they constructed their jackets, including my late father. But me, a bespoke tailor myself, I do not hand padded lapels nor chest canvas, because I think that is not necessary, and also because of my bespoke price point too. But if in case, any of my clients ask me to hand padded lapels I will do it for sure and charge extra accordingly.

    The silhouette and the fit of your jacket also depends on the way it's been cut too. Handwork by itself can't rescue a badly cut garment.

    By the way, I set shoulder pads and sleeves head by hand :). I believe that would be one of the most important detail of a good bespoke jacket.
     
  2. Encore

    Encore New Member

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    Dec 17, 2016
    Hi Guys,

    My friend is looking to make 8 MTM suits for his wedding, budget is around 550 each, he is thinking about SuitSupply/ Indochino, do you have any better suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Will
     
  3. dappercanadian

    dappercanadian Senior member

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    Apr 11, 2014
    
    @spiermackay
     
  4. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Location:
    Toronto
    +1. Spier and MacKay is going to be FAR better than Indochino, and I think significantly less expensive than Suitsupply (Prices here http://ca.suitsupply.com/en_CA/content-page-tailoring-made-to-measure.html). I haven't seen any custom suitsupply suits so I can't speak to quality/fit, but I'm very impressed with my first MTM from Spier & MacKay. Will try to post a Spier and Mackay review (with fit pics) this weekend (work permitting)

    I would also have two concerns about Suitsupply: 1) They focus on a short, very fitted, very tapered suit. This is great if you get the right size and all the groomsmen are gym rats. But some of the salespeople take it way too far. If you get the wrong sales guy, and he recommends that everyone buy a size too small, nobody will really look good. 2) See the suitsupply thread for people complaining about blowing out the fabric on suitsupply pants after just a few wears (particularly if your friend would be going for entry-level cloth).
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2017
  5. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Toronto
    Pics of some recent commissions.

    Raj Singh (suit has been worn ~7 times since it was pressed and needs a press; pants cut for braces, but I'm not wearing any here).
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    (really should have worn the braces)

    [​IMG]
    Handmade lapel buttonhole
    [​IMG]
    Nice clean handmade vest buttonhole and subtle handfinished pick stitching.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    (standing weirdly crooked in the last picture)


    Raj Singh - Blue jacket posted earlier (now with lens correction and has been let out at the waist). Had pants made to match to minimize impact of short jacket.
    [​IMG]
    (pants caught on shoe)

    @SPIER & MACKAY @SPIER & MACKAY - More detailed review here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/383376/spier-mackay-official-affiliate-thread/6480_60#post_8721533
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2017
  6. TOstyle

    TOstyle Senior member

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    First jacket sleeves look a little long maybe? Otherwise all look good!
     
  7. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Toronto
    

    Thanks. I agree. The first sleeves need shortening.

    I should've specified in the original post that I prefer some room in my suits (both for comfort, and so I'm not bursting out of my suit after a large meal).

    Also, I'm carrying weight around my waist that means I don't want to wear anything too fitted.

    By the way, I've been wearing that overcoat I bought from you much more than expected.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2017
  8. TOstyle

    TOstyle Senior member

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    Yeah it isn't slim fit but it doesn't have to be fitted and tasteful is good, and its a real thing worrying about whether they will fit in a few years. I do the same!
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. vinston

    vinston Member

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    Sorry, I don't want to say bad about anyone but the handwork look like home-made rather than hand-made.
    Machine would do a much neater job.
     
  10. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Toronto
    I like the handmade holes. I think they add personality.
     
  11. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Location:
    New York
    

    Gregor having said that if you had taken a walk around the old Primo factory in NYC, you would see aside from industrial pressing machines (that are probably 50 years old) how low tech and skill based they were. The shop was ran by Rocco Ciccarelli for maybe 40 years. I was watching an old Italian propaganda newsreel the other day and it showed a factory making Italian uniforms for the war, I was really struck with how similar looking the place was set up. You could find many tailors that started tailoring from childhood working on benches sewing, you could meet women that had been hand sewing buttonholes all there lives and men and women with big burly arms from decades of hand pressing pockets.


    I think when people say factory we tend to think of robots stamping things out and doing things in a very cookie cutter way, its got bad connotations but a small factory with say 50 workers making very high end work is quite different than say a MTM place. I have not had a tour but I would imagine the Kiton and Oxxford factories are rather similar.

    I do agree with you about training from childhood, its not only skill but speed which is important to be successful, thing is kids tend to go to school now in the west so what can you do? We seem to have a one size fits all education system which has its benefits to be sure, but apprenticeships at young ages certainly had value I think.
     
  12. greger

    greger Senior member

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    WA
    

    You are right. Credit due where credit is due.

    Factories and robots, robots are kinda new.

    Small children have plenty of time when not in school. With them an Apprenticeships are stretched. But, handling thimble, needle and thread, and cloth is best taught at a very young age. Some places was before the age of six. As soon as the child can sew dead straight they are taken right into making trousers, then a coat where they learn how a coat should fit. After that they are allowed to put on a coat made by someone else. At such young ages they are not allowed to touch shears nor iron, but shown how to use them and the iron why. When there mind is capable of handling numbers....
     
  13. TOstyle

    TOstyle Senior member

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    Hear hear. I've always been a fan of child labor and we DEFINITELY need more of it. Age six seems kind of old - if they can walk, they can hold a needle can't they? Thanks to @greger for having the gumption to say it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. greger

    greger Senior member

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    How many boys asked to become tailors? These boys were not forced into the trade. No doubt some boys were. Then there were the boys who were not fast enough who were told to find a different trade a few years down the road. Any boy knows there are advantages to making your own clothes. You get to make what you want to wear. So it is actually empowering. Another advantage is they can earn more money than other boys their age. Dishwasher is low pay.
     
  15. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Those companies will make them for him, one of them badly.
     
  16. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Main thing is, are you happy with them?

    There are quite a number of points which should have been picked up at fittings; I assume/hope that they were MTM not bespoken.
     
  17. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Toronto
    

    I am happy with the gray suit. Would still be interested in your thoughts on what should've been adjusted...
     
  18. greger

    greger Senior member

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    The grey suit looks terrible. Perhaps you slipped it on wrong.
    The lapel rolls past the button. Meaning the collar is to curved.
    The lapel button hole could be much better, since that one is for show.
    The back isn't sitting into the hollow of the small of the back, and yet the fronts hang parallel. This has to be a faulty pattern.
    The pants are baggy from the seat and quite aways down the back legs, too.

    The first fitting should have sorted out these problems when the body of the coat was basted together. If it is not bespoke it is not even good enough as m2m. Don't like to say the unkind words to you nor the people who made it.
     
  19. TOstyle

    TOstyle Senior member

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    I couldn't agree more. Completely and totally empowering. I just think in all fairness they should start them at age 4 instead of 6. Seems unfair to all those little gents who are missing out.
     
  20. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Location:
    Toronto
    @greger:Thanks for providing comments. My comments in reply are below...


    ...
    The lapel rolls past the button. Meaning the collar is to curved.
    Is this a stylistic choice by the tailor, of is there some technical reason that you would say this is incorrect? I know some prefer it to start a ways above the buttonhole (see the Despos thread). Or at the buttonhole.

    The lapel button hole could be much better, since that one is for show.
    I noticed that, too. The vest buttonhole and the sleeve buttonholes are much cleaner, which is a little unusual.

    The back isn't sitting into the hollow of the small of the back, and yet the fronts hang parallel.
    I see what you are saying about not sitting into the small of my back. I did ask did lots of room in the jacket. Not sure if that would impact this...

    The pants are baggy from the seat and quite aways down the back legs, too.
    This may be the lack of braces. Will try to get pics again with them on.
    Getting pants to fit properly has always been a challenge. I think it's a combination of flat butt and protruding calves. It makes it very difficult to get a clean line down the back of the leg.

    ... If it is not bespoke it is not even good enough as m2m.
    @GBR said something similar. Is this hyperbole? Or do you really feel it is that far off?

    This was not quite his bespoke level, but I believe much was made by hand here in Toronto.
     

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