I'm leaving in a few days for HK and have scheduled an appointment with WW Chan for my first bespoke suit. Here are the specs I've put together -- any comments or feedback are appreciated. Overall what I'm looking for is something that's confident and assertive, while still showing tasteful restraint. I want the suit to excude confidence and assurance, but remain in style long term. Jacket - Lapel width - undecided - Gorge height - undecided, but slightly high -- any suggestions for what's appropriate for a 3 button rolled to 2.5? - Real or false lapel buttonhole - real or none - Button stance (high, normal, low) - normal - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low) - normal - Shoulder padding - light to none -- but I want a nicely roped shoulder - Armholes (tight, normal, loose) - normal, slightly raised - Sleeve taper/circumference - undecided - Real or false sleeve buttonholes - functional ... of course - Number of sleeve buttons - four - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing" - slightly kissing (touching) but not overlapping - Jetted or flapped pockets - flapped - Single, double, or no vents - double - Jacket length (long, normal, short) - normal - Inside pockets (up to you) - something to hide a cell and a single (fountain) pen pocket in addition to regular pockets -- perhaps also an interior ticket-sized pocket - Outside extra pocket - I'm inclined toward a ticket pocket but fear these may go out of style -- I love them but see them a bit too often these days. Thoughts? - Peak or notch - Notch ... while peak would be a nod to custom tailoring on a three button rolled to two this may questionable - SB or DB - SB - Buttons (SB) - 1, 2, 3 - and how it should roll - Probably 3 rolled to 2.5 so I can button to three if I wish - Waist suppression - yes please, I'd like this to look tailored and not boxy. - Lean or swelled chest - clean but masculine, so lean with a bit of a swell - Clean or draped - Clean - Straight or hacking pockets - undecided, probably straight - Roped or non-roped shoulders[/quote] - roped but not with too much shape and *no padding* if they can do a constructed shoulder a la Neopolitan tailors - Raised arm holes or not[/quote] - slightly raised -- again, a la Neopolitan tailors - Lining (and if you like a different sleeve lining) - something personal but with style and taste - not sure yet Trousers - Button or zipper fly - probably zipper. I like buttons but they're a bit inconvenient. - Pockets (on the seam or slightly angled) - slightly angled - Rear pockets (both buttoned, one buttoned) - one - Fork height (tight, normal, loose) - I'm not sure what this is - Leg taper - slight - Leg width - undecided - Cuffed (height of cuff) or plain - undecided, depending on the suit cuffed, 1.25-1.5" - Single, double, or no pleats, forward or reverse - single or double reverse mid-depth pleasts that lie flat, making a sort of cross between flat and pleated pants - Square latch, latch with button loop - latch with button loop -- suggestions? - Belt loops or brace buttons - I enjoy wearing braces, but belt loops on this one. Normal waist, side tabs, brace back - normal for the more modern suit I'm considering, though I like side tabs. Rise (low, medium, high) - in a more traditional suit I'd say high, but here normal to slightly high. Not low. OK gents -- what say ye?