Custom Suit Specs -- Request for Feedback

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Girardian, Apr 24, 2006.

  1. Girardian

    Girardian Senior member

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    I'm leaving in a few days for HK and have scheduled an appointment with WW Chan for my first bespoke suit. Here are the specs I've put together -- any comments or feedback are appreciated.

    Overall what I'm looking for is something that's confident and assertive, while still showing tasteful restraint. I want the suit to excude confidence and assurance, but remain in style long term.

    Jacket
    - Lapel width - undecided

    - Gorge height - undecided, but slightly high -- any suggestions for what's appropriate for a 3 button rolled to 2.5?

    - Real or false lapel buttonhole - real or none

    - Button stance (high, normal, low) - normal

    - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low) - normal

    - Shoulder padding - light to none -- but I want a nicely roped shoulder

    - Armholes (tight, normal, loose) - normal, slightly raised

    - Sleeve taper/circumference - undecided

    - Real or false sleeve buttonholes - functional ... of course

    - Number of sleeve buttons - four

    - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing" - slightly kissing (touching) but not overlapping

    - Jetted or flapped pockets - flapped

    - Single, double, or no vents - double

    - Jacket length (long, normal, short) - normal

    - Inside pockets (up to you) - something to hide a cell and a single (fountain) pen pocket in addition to regular pockets -- perhaps also an interior ticket-sized pocket

    - Outside extra pocket - I'm inclined toward a ticket pocket but fear these may go out of style -- I love them but see them a bit too often these days. Thoughts?

    - Peak or notch - Notch ... while peak would be a nod to custom tailoring on a three button rolled to two this may questionable

    - SB or DB - SB

    - Buttons (SB) - 1, 2, 3 - and how it should roll - Probably 3 rolled to 2.5 so I can button to three if I wish

    - Waist suppression - yes please, I'd like this to look tailored and not boxy.

    - Lean or swelled chest - clean but masculine, so lean with a bit of a swell

    - Clean or draped - Clean

    - Straight or hacking pockets - undecided, probably straight

    - Roped or non-roped shoulders[/quote] - roped but not with too much shape and *no padding* if they can do a constructed shoulder a la Neopolitan tailors

    - Raised arm holes or not[/quote] - slightly raised -- again, a la Neopolitan tailors

    - Lining (and if you like a different sleeve lining) - something personal but with style and taste - not sure yet


    Trousers
    - Button or zipper fly - probably zipper. I like buttons but they're a bit inconvenient.

    - Pockets (on the seam or slightly angled) - slightly angled

    - Rear pockets (both buttoned, one buttoned) - one

    - Fork height (tight, normal, loose) - I'm not sure what this is

    - Leg taper - slight

    - Leg width - undecided

    - Cuffed (height of cuff) or plain - undecided, depending on the suit cuffed, 1.25-1.5"

    - Single, double, or no pleats, forward or reverse - single or double reverse mid-depth pleasts that lie flat, making a sort of cross between flat and pleated pants

    - Square latch, latch with button loop - latch with button loop -- suggestions?

    - Belt loops or brace buttons - I enjoy wearing braces, but belt loops on this one.

    Normal waist, side tabs, brace back - normal for the more modern suit I'm considering, though I like side tabs.

    Rise (low, medium, high) - in a more traditional suit I'd say high, but here normal to slightly high. Not low.

    OK gents -- what say ye?
     
  2. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    I'll leave comments on the rest of the items to others, but I want to offer a word of advice on cuff width. Unless you're a particularly short gentleman, I'd recommend you opt for a wider cuff, an inch and three quarters, perhaps.
     
  3. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    DEFINITELY get a working lapel buttonhole with flower keep, just in case you want to stick one in there some day.

    Ticket pockets are fashionable these days, but they are also classic. Yes, they make look a little dated to the sartorially ignorant in a few years, but ..... Do what pleases you most.
     
  4. Girardian

    Girardian Senior member

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    I'll leave comments on the rest of the items to others, but I want to offer a word of advice on cuff width. Unless you're a particularly short gentleman, I'd recommend you opt for a wider cuff, an inch and three quarters, perhaps.

    Good point. I used to go 1.75 on all my trousers and I like this look. I'll return. I'm 5'10" and an good fit for an OTR 40R in most makers.
     
  5. Girardian

    Girardian Senior member

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    Suggestions for fabrics?

    This is going to be a solid suit (non-striped), but with some kind of a pattern that gives it depth. Either in the grays or dark blues.
     
  6. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    If you decide to ask for the lapel to roll from 3 to 2, I'd be very insistent on understanding exactly where the buttonhole will land on the roll. I'm lately of the mind that a misplaced buttonhole can ruin an otherwise handsome lapel.
     
  7. countdemoney

    countdemoney Senior member

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    If you will be in HK, you might see if you can try on a few jackets that they are making. This should give you a much better idea about their style and will be good reference for you to use in talking about your commission if you aren't bringing a coat whose cut you already like.
     
  8. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Some of these options depend on your body type. If you are thin and wish to look fashion-forward I suggest thinner lapels.

    Re: trouser pocket buttons, I believe the consensus in an earlier thread dedicated to the subject was that button-through (no latch or loop) was the ideal.

    You've made a very detailed checklist -- certainly more detailed than the one I made before going to see Chan -- that would serve as a good reference for other prospective customers.
     
  9. Charley

    Charley Senior member

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    The jacket pockets can be finished as besom so that the flaps can be worn out or tucked into the pocket. And the same finish can be done on the rear trouser pockets.

    Put some thought into where you want that waist button on the jacket. Moving it a half inch makes quite a bit of difference in apperance and waist location. Pocket location can be floated a bit - not definetly dependent on the buttons - so that you can maybe slightly lower them if you are short - or raise them if you are taller. Further, consider how open you want the quarters on the jacket to be.
     
  10. Girardian

    Girardian Senior member

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    The jacket pockets can be finished as besom so that the flaps can be worn out or tucked into the pocket. And the same finish can be done on the rear trouser pockets.
    This would assume flap pockets on the rear of the trousers that could be worn tucked in? I hadn't thought of flaps ont he rear trouser pockets.

    Put some thought into where you want that waist button on the jacket. Moving it a half inch makes quite a bit of difference in apperance and waist location. Pocket location can be floated a bit - not definetly dependent on the buttons - so that you can maybe slightly lower them if you are short - or raise them if you are taller. Further, consider how open you want the quarters on the jacket to be.
    Button Stance:
    I'm not certain precisely where I want it to be if the jacket is 3 rolled to 2.5. I'd like to be *able* to button the top button but also to not, and don't want the button hole to be visible when it's buttoned to 2 (i.e. I want it rolled under the lapel).

    Jacket Quarters
    If this refers to the opening of the jacket at the chest, I'm considering adding a vest to go with the suit (not to be worn normally but as an option). If so, I'll do a pretty high closure on the vest so it could be seen above the 2.5 roll. With the 3rd button closed, I wouldn't wear the vest. How specific should I be about this?
     
  11. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Unless you're wedded to the idea, flaps on trouser pockets are a bad idea.

    The quarters refers to the shape of the coat opening below the buttons. Best to ask for them to be at least somewhat open; HK tailors make them closed which tends to make the wearer look like a doofus. Open quarters also lengthen the leg line.

    You could go for a subtle windowpane, or choose a solid with depth, like a herringbone, woolen flannel, nailhead, pick and pick, etc.
     
  12. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    If you truly want something that is confident and assertive then I suggest you exercise some of both yourself and not have other people design your suit for you. As with any other type of learning, trial and error on your own will put you in faster touch with your sartorial chi.
     
  13. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Button Stance:
    I'm not certain precisely where I want it to be if the jacket is 3 rolled to 2.5. I'd like to be *able* to button the top button but also to not, and don't want the button hole to be visible when it's buttoned to 2 (i.e. I want it rolled under the lapel).


    I think that this would be problematic, and that you'll want to pick one or the other. If the lapel is rolled to the top button, when you leave the top button undone, it is certainly going to be visible, and will look like you missed a button. If the lapel is rolled to the second button (a 2.5 button or 3-roll-2), when you try to (unnaturally) button the top button, it will pull and look bad.
     
  14. Girardian

    Girardian Senior member

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    Last chance for feedback -- thanks for the comments to date. Please feel free to express opinions (especially on the "undecided" options above), I will take or leave them, but would like them.

    Undecided items include:
    - Sleeve taper/circumference
    (suggestions? I'd like to be able to wear FC shirts with this suit)

    - Outside extra pocket
    (I'm inclined toward a ticket pocket but fear these may go out of style -- I love them but see them a bit too often these days. Thoughts?)

    - Straight or hacking pockets
    (undecided, probably straight)

    - Fork height (tight, normal, loose)
    (I'm not sure what this is)

    - Leg width
    (undecided)

    - Gorge height - undecided, but slightly high
    (any suggestions for what's appropriate for a 3 button rolled to 2.5?)

    To the extent that this colors advice, I am 5'10" and 170 lbs.
     
  15. Girardian

    Girardian Senior member

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    If you truly want something that is confident and assertive then I suggest you exercise some of both yourself and not have other people design your suit for you. As with any other type of learning, trial and error on your own will put you in faster touch with your sartorial chi.
    I value this site for it's collective knowledge, input and insight. That's why I'm seeking feedback. The decisions are my own.

    As the saying goes, "please everyone and noone is pleased -- please yourself, and at least you're pleased." [​IMG]
     

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