Custom shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by banksmiranda, Sep 22, 2003.

  1. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I think there's a storm a brewing.  I personally love the cut of Attolini and Barba shirts, and I think that the fabrics they use are terrific, and that the exclusivity of the patterns in part justify their cost.  However, I agree with you that, especially in the case of shirts, that the value of handiwork is overrated.  It does add somewhat to the "clothing as art" aesthetic appeal that I'm sure is attractive to a lot of guys on this forum, myself included.  However, there is also something to be said for the regularity of machine work.  I know that your opinion was reserved solely for shirts; but I've actually gone so far as to say in some previous posts that on some modern suits (such as Helmut Lang suits, for eample) the regularity of machine work is a little more suitable than the interesting but distracting irregularity of work done by hand.  
    \t
    I'm going to need riot gear, aren't I?
     


  3. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG] Maybe - but we need different opinions or else we wouldn't have these great debates. On the shirts I sort of agree. Most of the reasons I prefer handsewn shirts have to do with aesthetics. A handsewn shirt fits better in the shoulder and armhole though. With suits I do not agree at all. Maybe it's just my build but I have yet to try on a machine-made suit that didn't fit horribly in comparison with a properly cut handsewn suit.
     


  4. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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  5. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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  6. Kai

    Kai Senior member

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    Personally, I can't justify the cost of handsewn shirt. I have my shirts professionally laundered, and they are not always treated as well as I would like. I simply don't have time to do my own washing and ironing.(I do launder and iron my formal shirt myself, and I have a couple of linen shirts I don't trust to the cleaners, but all the rest go to the laundry.)
    The two handsewn shirts I've owned were very nice, but didn't hold up well in the laundry.
    I currently buy custom made shirts. They are sewn almost entirely by machine, but the buttons are sewn on by hand. They fit perfectly, I have an insanely large selection of the very nicest shirting fabrics, and I can specify all of the details such as collar and cuff styles. Cost is about $105 per shirt.
    I will choose handstitching on a suit every time, but to me, shirts just aren't worth it.

    Kai
     


  7. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    I think I'm going to choose to not ruin naturlaut's vacation in the south of France by NOT forwarding this post to him.
     


  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Oh, c'mon Thracozaag, don't be so solemn. One of the best things about this forum, apart from our being about to share our enthusiasm for style and fashion, is the fun we have dissecting sacred cows, to mangle a few metaphors. I don't see the offence in tearing into fictions perpetrated by Kiton and Borelli and Barba, just as I don't see the harm in tearing into the preening of the Prada/Yamamoto/Helmut Lang crowd or the exceedingly pretentious "Hipster nation" in their ridiculous distressed jeans and vintage tees (seriously, I just spent $139 on a pair of von Dutch "engineer jeans"; how sad is that?)

    Just because we like something doesn't mean that we can't have a bit of a laugh at our own expense. This is not world politics or religion. This is a bunch of grown men (I assume we all are) talking about 4-ply cashmere sweaters and whether low or natural-waisted jeans are better.
     


  9. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    LA Guy - I misread your post before didn't I?? You are saying that the precise, regular look of machine sewing complements some designer suits better than handsewing would, correct?
     


  10. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    my two cents: machine or hand stitched, either way, i ain't paying more than a hundred bucks for a shirt that isn't made for my exact measurements. i've seen guys in $20 shirts that actually look very stylish and professional because the shirt fits them so well. add to that the fact that one can choose collar style, cuffs, etc... and i think the choice should be clear. [​IMG]
     


  11. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    I'm in a foul mood...and this post didn't help.
     


  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Correct. I actually had some unlined jackets I'd seen with lazer cut "raw" edges in mind when I wrote that (really, the jacket might more accurately have been described as a sheath.) Hand-picking in that case would have been purely a distraction. Also, on some Helmut Lang suits distinguished by the austere cut monastic lack of details, I think that details like the slight crimping of the Neapolitan shoulder would just not look quite right.

    I'm just saying that tailoring techniques should match the tone and style of the garment, and need to be considered on a case-by-case basis, is all.
     


  13. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Excellent point.
     


  14. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    On a totally different tangent... Thracozaag, I usually ignore the little pictures underneath IDs, however, I suddenly realized that your photo was a snapshot of Julliard. Â I remember reading somewhere that you and naturalat were musicians. Â Just out of curiosity, are you guys affiliated with Julliard or playing with one of the NYC fine arts groups (the Met, NYC ballet, etc.)? Oh, and can you suggest any rising talent that might be playing in the future? Â I spend all my money on clothes and can't afford two decent tickets to the opera norcal [​IMG]
     


  15. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Yes, indeedy, it's the Junkyard. Hopefully by this time next year I will have been deemed worthy of receiving my doctorate from the Jailyard. Pity about not getting decent opera tickets, I was able to sneak into a rehearsal for Tristan last week, and it should be amazing...I wish I could get tickets myself, now. A friend of mine, Mei-Ting Sun, is giving a piano recital in Tully in early November. He's a fabulous talent, well worth hearing. More info. can be found at www.meiting.com I (along with four other pianists), will be playing in Merkin in late November in an all transcription program which should be pretty interesting.
     


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