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Custom Shirtmakers in Manhattan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by 5thave, Mar 28, 2006.

  1. 5thave

    5thave Active Member

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  2. mikeber

    mikeber Senior member

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    As in many other cases, it's an optical illusion. Many names that are listed are regular tailors (some even alteration tailors) who will accept to cut you a shirt if you insist. Others are stores that sell clothes (and shirts) and if you ask them to make you a shirt will comission it from someone else. True shirt makers (who run their business mainly for making custom shirts) are relatively few. I do not believe that there are more then a dozen, probably less. (Remember that NYC has a population of more them 8 millionS, and it crowns itself as the fashion epicenter of the world)
     


  3. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Four genuine chemisiers well respected in these parts in three distinct price-points: Cego, Geneva and Paris, Kabbaz.
     


  4. mikeber

    mikeber Senior member

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    Four genuine chemisiers well respected in these parts in three distinct price-points: Cego, Geneva and Paris, Kabbaz.
    There are others as well (that for some reason aren't mentioned on these forums, such as Ascot Chang). However, the lists that 5thave posted, give the (wrong) impression that there are some hundred shirtmakers working hard day and night to satisfy New Yorkers' appetite for customshirts....
     


  5. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    There are soooo many custom shirtmakers in manhattan. Here are two lists of them, but I'm sure there are others out there:

    http://www.sbn.com/listings/212/list/212050_1.html

    http://newyork.zami.com/Apparel_Stor..._-_Custom_Made

    As general discourse, please share your experiences with the various mtm/bespoke shirtmakers in manhattan and how to happened to settle with one makers, if you have settled that is.



    Some of these shops have closed. The late Arthur Gluck was a
    well respected New York shirtmaker. The folks who bought his
    shop have an Internet shirt business, but their product is not nearly
    of the same quality.
     


  6. Mentos

    Mentos Senior member

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    Any opinions on Seize sur Vingt? They're MTM, but they're highly regarded among the downtown set.
     


  7. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

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    Any opinions on Seize sur Vingt? They're MTM, but they're highly regarded among the downtown set.

    When I talked to them (lo these many years), they only had one collar option, and it looked a bit anemic to me. I like their fabrics, the staff is nice and I have heard that construction is decent.

    Maybe they've given more collar options since I spoke to them...
     


  8. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Any opinions on Seize sur Vingt? They're MTM, but they're highly regarded among the downtown set.
    I know it's a bad measure, but what I saw of theirs at Century 21 was not very inspiring. Fabrics felt cheap, construction was mediocre. EDIT: of course it's possible that these were rejected by SZV
     


  9. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

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    Fabrics felt cheap, construction was mediocre.

    Alternately, it is possible that things have gone downhill since I last spoke with them (it's been a few years).
     


  10. Mentos

    Mentos Senior member

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    Actually, they were on my mind after spotting some of their stuff at C21 this past weekend. One of the shirts there was monogrammed--obviously a botched MTM order. It seemed like a decent contruction, and the fabric was nice, but I didn't really form a strong impression one way or another.
     


  11. mikeber

    mikeber Senior member

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    Seize sur Vingt merchandise is actually better then before. They are expensive though, with a more "fashion forward" twist (that members of these forums dislike). Last year, they also showed me suits - which they claimed to be real bespoke, with handwork and multiple fittings.
    Shirts - they wanted to cut me a first "tester" before making the rest.
    Fabrics for shirts and suits are unique - stuff you don't usually see at every tailor.
    Overall an interesting alternative to other shirtmakers, but so far their prices kept me from ordering more.
     


  12. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    ... genuine chemisiers well respected in these parts in ...distinct price-points: Cego, Geneva and Paris

    This should give you some information on Paris Shirts.

    http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/is-paris-burning
     


  13. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

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    Seize sur Vingt merchandise is actually better then before. They are expensive though, with a more "fashion forward" twist (that members of these forums dislike). Last year, they also showed me suits - which they claimed to be real bespoke, with handwork and multiple fittings.
    Shirts - they wanted to cut me a first "tester" before making the rest.
    Fabrics for shirts and suits are unique - stuff you don't usually see at every tailor.
    Overall an interesting alternative to other shirtmakers, but so far their prices kept me from ordering more.


    Mike,

    Did you order anything at all from them? If so, what is your take post-ownership. Does it wear well?

    Glad to hear that they are doing well. The shop is nice, and the stuff they have is interesting and unique. As you said, not every tailor carries the fabrics that they do.

    Did they give you flexibility on collars? I really dislike their piddly little RTW collar (both size and shape - doesn't have body).
     


  14. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    This should give you some information on Paris Shirts.

    http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/is-paris-burning


    F-N-B,

    Are you a paid salesman for Paris?? Your only posts seem to be shilling that establishment?

    Perry
     


  15. mikeber

    mikeber Senior member

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    Mike, Did you order anything at all from them? If so, what is your take post-ownership. Does it wear well? Glad to hear that they are doing well. The shop is nice, and the stuff they have is interesting and unique. As you said, not every tailor carries the fabrics that they do. Did they give you flexibility on collars? I really dislike their piddly little RTW collar (both size and shape - doesn't have body).
    Now I see my misunderstanding: I don't know about their RTW shirts. I was talking about their custom stuff, which is probably different. I only ordered 4 shirts and I was pleased with the result. I could choose from many collar types, mine is moderately spread. I am happy with the way they age, but you must remember that I am not rough on my shirts and I rotate them. (Dont wear a shirt more then 8-10 times a year). Unlike some forum members who ordered shirts from every shirtmaker under the sun, my experience is limited. The other custom shirts I own, are relatively cheap and don't belong to the top category. So my Seize sur Vingt experince is positive and they are nice people, but my budget does not allow spending $300-400 a shirt.
     


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