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Custom 2nd Overcoat in Toronto - Advice Needed

Young Pro

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I've decided to commission a second "overcoat" and would appreciate some advice and inspiration.

For background, I live in Toronto and wear suits/jackets to work every day. I currently have an 8-year old charcoal grey cashmere overcoat that is functional but boxy and not particularly stylish. It's a below the knee Tilford model from Harry Rosen.

I'm planning to supplement this coat with something a little more modern, but could use a little help in 3 main areas.

1. Tailor: considering Bulloch (currently does my suits), Garrison, Trend or MyTailor (does my shirts). I'm a difficult fit and since I'm a little bit undecided on style, leaning towards one of the locals, but would appreciate any feedback on any of them.

2. Fabric: as mentioned I already have a plain charcoal cashmere overcoat. For this one, I was thinking of something in either a lighter grey or brown, either tweed or a subtle glen plaid. If anyone has any pictures or suggestions of fabric books to look at, that would be much appreciated.

3. Style: I'm thinking of something short (mid thigh), but as yet undecided on other details (lapel, placket, pocket, sleeve styles, any accents). Would appreciate any feedback on the relative merits of any of the above. Ideally, for work I'd alternate between my existing coat on really bad weather days and the new one, but also be able to wear the new one more casually, with jeans/odd trousers and a sweater for example.

As for price, I haven't made any specific inquiries yet, so I don't have a hard budget. I'm hoping I can keep it in the range of $1,500 or so, but it's a piece I'd plan to have for 10+ years, so could be persuaded to go above that for the right fabric.

Thanks everyone.
 

WildeMan

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I can't recommend anyone, but I would have the following concern:

Anything I've ever had custom made - shirts, trousers, jackets - took a couple of tries before the fit and style were what I wanted. So, you're stuck with a shirt or pair of trousers that aren't perfect...you wear them as needed, but you prefer the clothes where you've nailed the fit.

Obviously, with an overcoat, you'd better get exactly what you want the first time. Otherwise, you've paid a lot of money to figure out the kind of overcoat you don't want.
 

RogerP

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^^^ Those were my thoughts as well. Sorry YoungPro - if I had a local custom maker to recommend, I would happily do so. But I simply haven't found the need to go that route.

By the way - in all likelihood, a good alterations tailor can easily (and inexpensively) address the 'boxiness' of your existing coat. Something you should consider pursuing even if you do add a second coat.
 

Young Pro

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What made you decide to have one custom made? Have you looked at what's available in stores and not found anything you liked? Can you describe why you didn't like them?


I've looked in stores, though there aren't many choices up here, and haven't found anything exactly right, both in terms of fabric and fit. Some things come close, but for $2k+, i'd rather go custom.
 

Odd I/O

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Young Pro, how would you describe Bulloch's house cut? Is he flexible on what details you can request? What fabrics does he carry? He's only a 15-20 minute walk from work so I'm considering commissioning a sport coat from him.
 

GBR

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I would suggest that you stay local sop that you can influence style etc. more readily - on line is fraught with danger. Good luck with Bullochs then. Let us see what you get.
 

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